by M.S. Redman

The maintenance of boats can be divided into three sections: the hull with all its fittings and attachments, the rigging both standing and running, and the sails. I have not included the engine because that would be another article all on its own.

A great deal can be done towards keeping the hull in decent order during the season by making good any scratches as they occur by some stopping (white lead and gold size). It is true you will not be able to match up the exact shade of paint but usually there is that little bit left in last year’s paint can. Then there comes that odd leak or so either in the hull or decking, more noticeable when it goes down your neck. A tube of ‘Sealastic’ or like material comes in very useful here both for hull leaks or in the deck planking. It will be squeezed out if the wood swells eventually. Never use hard stopping in these places.

The rudder fittings are the most important part of your boat. Check them at intervals for wear and make certain that the bolts or screws have not suffered from electrolysis. Next perhaps I would place the shroud plates, stem head attachments and mast bands for the loss of your mast through failure of deck fittings or mast attachments is a serious thing. You are helpless, and become a liability to other people. Remember, the dinghy cruiser above all must always be self dependent. Maybe I should also add that most important part of the boat equipment — the anchor and cable or warp. If your warp or chain is weak then there will come a day when your anchor remains in the bottom and you pull up a length of chain only. A good chain is better than the best insurance policy for an insurance policy cannot save your life. Here perhaps I must stress good buoyancy for the boat and also for the crew. Mattresses of kapok will help in this respect and life jackets are already for use in an emergency if constructed of buoyant materials.

Rigging wire should be inspected at the deck where salt water gets around. Rust starts here and at the splices. Modern Talurit splices are better in this respect because it does not damage the galvanising. Most people dope their standing rigging with varnish/linseed oil and turpentine substitute mixture. Shackles used for mastbands should be looked at and if in awkward places must be wired up. Rope halyards can often be turned end for end and made to last perhaps another season. If any doubt, cast out. Any whippings on rope ends should be replaced as soon as they are adrift. One last word of advice, carry some spare rope of the size most used for halyards and sheets, together with a few shackles.

The most ill-treated part of the boat is the driving power, the sail. I would advise boat owners who only use their boats at weekends to have their sails rot and mildew proofed. You have no idea what a load of worry this takes off your mind when you leave the sails wet after the usual weekend. Any small tears or seams wearing their stitching should be repaired temporarily by a cross stitching or even a rough patch to prevent further tearing of the cloth. This means at least a skeleton repair kit of sail thread and needles, anyway you will need it as well for missing buttons. The bermudian rig is doubtless the best for weekend sailors for the simple reason that in a few minutes one can remove the sails completely from mast and boom whereas sails laced to spars are left on more often, because of the time involved in removal. Anyway don’t leave sails tightly stretched to spars because of shrinkage. Sails are expensive to replace. One last word, keep your boat in good condition for you owe it to yourself, your crew and others.