by M.S. Redman

Of all the east coast rivers it could be said that the Crouch holds the greatest number of boats. The approach from the north through the Raysand Channel or from the Thames via the Whittaker spit is not difficult but it is not interesting. The banks are so very low that in many conditions such as driving rain or mist it is difficult to pick out the entrance from even two miles offshore.

However once inside its friendly seawalls you can always find that sheltered anchorage somewhere. The only centres for shopping are, in order, Burnham where mostly all your needs from gear to food can be satisfied; next Fambridge, a small store; next Hullbridge, more stores and a pub; Battlesbridge, the end of the navigation except for canoes, has stores, post office, two pubs, swimming pool and a railway station with a good service to Liverpool Street, Eastern Region.

There are no navigational worries except the usual mud spits of which experience tells you the likely location. Four miles from the mouth the River Roach joins the Crouch. This branch runs up to Rochford (Stambridge Mills) through Paglesham (6 feet at low water), the channel is then shallow and winding but good to explore on a rising tide. It is possible to land on the grass at the Mills at high water. A bus runs to Southend. Water could be obtained at the Mills. Rochford, a large market town is but a mile away and worth a visit for the old part of the town is picturesque and unspoilt. Stores of all sorts can be obtained. There are many creeks off the Roach, including Havengore which leads into the Thames via a swing bridge and over the Maplin sands. This can only be accomplished at high water and if no gun firing is taking place.

From the mouth of the Roach to Burnham is but two miles. From afar the masts look like a wood of fire trees with no leaves. If you can find the Town Hard between the moored boats (between the Corinthian Yacht Club, the first glass fronted building, and just past the Royal Burnham Yacht Club). The river front is pleasantly Georgian in character and you will always be pleased to look upon it. All around are boats, old ones, grand old ones, and very new ones, Every time you walk along some new boat will catch your eye. There is a café, the ‘Dolphin’ by the clock tower, which is much frequented by sailing types of smaller craft, but the Georgian frontage only by types of larger and more pretentious craft. It costs more that side. Stores of all sorts in the town.

On we go until the moored boats thin a little. Look for the Admiralty Hard just above the Crouch Yacht Club or the last building of any size on the starboard hand. This hard goes right down to low water on most tides. At the top over the wall are toilets (ladies and gents) and a water tap. This is on the council camping and caravan site (particulars from Council offices in the High Street).

As we leave Burnham and towards Creeksea, where landing on shingle is possible at any state of the tide, the river opens into the most beautiful stretch — Cliff Reach. On the starboard hand is the Cliff, 50 feet of scrub with level patches of grass sheltered from the north. Here secluded camping sites are possible but you must have all your needs with you for it is two miles along the wall to Burnham. The landing is a little muddy but it is possible to find stony patches here and there. You will agree it was worth it when ashore.

Almost a mile further upstream Althorne Creek branches off. Now just inside the bar at the entrance you can lie afloat in 4 feet of water if you do not go beyond a small inlet on the starboard bank. Reasonably good for getting ashore at low water. Once you have passed this inlet you must not anchor for there are oyster beds across the channel as far up as the hard (good landing at all states on shingle) which leads to Althorne Station here but half a mile from the water.

Following the main river for four miles or so Fambridge anchorage comes into view. Here the road goes right down to low water on the north bank and on the south bank a footpath leads down the stone faced wall. Good landing at all states. The station is one and a quarter miles distant, there is a grocer’s store just up the road and an old pub. The south bank also has a pub and a bus service to Southend (infrequent).

Farther upstream there is Brandy Hole Reach with Stow Creek offering sheltered moorings for the night. As we approach Hullbridge, the river narrows and the boats increase in number if smaller. Hullbridge is well stocked with small shops and has a good bus service to Leigh, Rayleigh and Southend (about every half hour). Good landing at all states (shingle).

About a quarter of a mile above Hullbridge a small creek leads off to starboard. This is Fenn Creek, small but deep in the channel, navigable for two hours either side of H.W. for boats up to 4 feet draft. Continue up here for a mile until you reach a pair of buildings on the starboard hand. One is the Eyott Sailing Club boathouse, the other is the residence of the author. A welcome is extended to all D.C.A. and Y.H.A.S.G. members who happen to be cruising hereabouts. Boats can be left moored here in the creek from one weekend to the next. Water is available about 400 yards from the creek. Woodham Ferrers Station is one and a quarter miles, and there is an hourly bus service from Clacton to Southend. Shops and Post Office are in the village by the station. Landing is possible on a private stone hard. In my absence Miss Joan Lee of “??? To” (about 200 yards distant) can always oblige if a temporary mooring space is wanted.

Back in the main river it is two miles by winding channels to Battlesbridge — and keep a look out for mud banks as the river narrows. Here at the bridge and lock gates navigation for you must end but there are the ‘Hawk’ and ‘Barge’ to quench your thirst.

Note: One inch Ordnance Map is better than a chart for the Crouch. It is the best guide for inland waterways because of the necessary information regarding access to the river.