Those of our members who launch regularly from a known hard or club ramp are fortunate indeed. There are many, however, who stray to different areas where the exact conditions awaiting them are not to be relied on and it is often left to chance whether, after trailing for a couple of hours, launching and sailing are possible. The choice of trailer is a great consideration and one that is strong and light should be used. (unladen weight not to exceed 2 cwt without brakes) Preferably with a roller at the rear to enable the trailer to be drawn clear when the boat's weight is all on the stern. Also of great assistance is a jockey wheel on front as this enables the boat and trailer to be manhandled over mud and shingle without bothering about the balance.

Generally when launching by myself I have found these to be of great assistance. Often I arrive well before HW, rig the boat and load up (no overhead wires by the mast?) and push the trailer and boat in till the boat floats off. Sealed wheel bearings are almost a must for this, though mine which are still in good shape after four years are not. Plenty of grease and year1y inspections seem to help. One point which should not be forgotten is a long warp from the boat to the launcher's hand as there is generally a small amount of momentum off the trailer as the boat floats free and it could mean a change of pants before getting aboard - happy days!

As you may gather, this article generally applies to boats heavier than the lightweight racing dinghy which can be manhandled over a beach with some help; either lifted bodily clear or slid over greased runners. Specially made inflatable bags on which the boat can roll are also a great help, especially as they may be used for buoyancy after. Launching always being a downhill job is fairly straightforward, the biggest headaches come when one wants to get the boat out clear, and away home for a meal.

Sometimes it is difficult to get a car down far enough on solid ground to enable the trailer to be hitched on. For this I have found about 15 - 20 fathoms of 2" sisal rope of invaluable help. The method being to back the car down as far as possible, secure the rope to towing bracket, float the boat on to the trailer and pull out till the boat is on balance marks (marks on hull and trailer that line up when balance is correct) and just held by trailer. Make fast with the rope and then gently pull clear with the car in first gear till everything is on firm ground. This is where the jockey wheel really comes into its own as it stops the trailer digging in, as the boat should balance on the car for comfortable towing. Don't tie the rope around any car bumpers or sharp objects as the pull employed is terrific and it cuts like string. Also of use during these operations is a pair of industrial gloves, the saving on plasters and bandage being worth it. A strong wooden lever has its uses in moving the boat an inch or so on the trailer should the balance not be quite right.

A winch attachment is obviously a boon but not one that everybody can enjoy. For this a strong ring bolt low down at the stem of a light craft is used, but on heavier boats a strop through the keel enables the boat to be drawn over beaches or mud right on to the trailer. I hope some members will find a tip or two in this article but a last one; it is best to ‘be prepared’ and never launch if there is going to be trouble getting out, as it's all uphill work going home.