by Eric Coleman

For our holiday this summer we planned, weather permitting, to take three weeks, sailing to the Friesian Islands from Maldon, Essex, exploring these islands and sailing or, if necessary, shipping Aurora back. Aurora is 13’6” x 5’6”, cabin conversion, the cabin so designed to make the boat self-righting without internal ballast, all hatches watertight. The absence of ballast enabled stores and water for 3 weeks to be carried.

Saturday - 14 July. Left Maldon 11 a.m. Wind S.E. - F.3. Sky overcast with intermittent rain. Not a very encouraging start but as we tacked down the Blackwater on the ebb, the rain gradually eased off. Slowly we made our way north-eastwards along the coast, the light onshore wind pushed up a popple, which flung most of the wind out of the sails. Matters became worse, the wind backed to east and the tide turned against us off Clacton. Between 8 and 12 p.m. we made good only 3 miles. This sort of sailing is very punishing and when, at 6 a.m. on Sunday, the entrance of the River Deben was invitingly near we decided to go in and wait for more favourable weather.

Sunday it rained all day, the wind was N.E. and we did not fancy slogging up the coast. It was much more enjoyable watching from our snug cabin other people getting wet.

Monday was cloudy with a light north wind so we pushed on northwards and off the mouth of the River Ore set course for Texel, the most western of the Friesian Islands. We soon sighted the Shipwash L.V. but the wind veered to NE and the forecast gave a continuance of these conditions so we turned back to the mouth of the River Ore, a lovely anchorage, wild and exposed, the fierce tides and shingle banks providing an impressive scene when the wind is onshore.

Tuesday the wind was again unfavourable so we took the last of the flood up to the River Butley. Here there are only about two houses and the area is a stronghold of sea birds. In the evening a perfect calm mirrored the sunset in a cloudless sky. Shelduck, hawks, martins, oystercatchers, curlews, herons and black headed gulls abound in this quiet retreat.

Wednesday dawned still and cloudless so we sculled down to the entrance of the Butley on the last of the ebb and anchored for breakfast. With a light east wind we sailed to Aldeburgh where we ate fish and chips out of newspaper and replenished our reading matter. Sailing back to the entrance of the Ore the wind was S.E. - F.4 and the sky misted over.

Thursday - 2 a.m. We awoke to find that the wind had veered south - F. 5-6 - blowing straight into the entrance of the river. When the ebb started our anchorage would become a mass of breaking seas so we weighed anchor and tried to run up river on the last of the flood with jib only. Immediately we were ashore on a mudbank, just missing some stakes, but managed to push into a cove and secured the boat with both anchors. The tide left its high and dry to spend the rest of the night in peace. 6.45 a.m. forecast predicted gales from the south east so a retreat to a more sheltered backwater was made at high tide. The day was passed reading and bird watching whilst low clouds raced overhead.

Friday, bright sunshine, warm. Wind SW - F.3 - all set for the North Sea voyage. As we waited for the tide to turn the wind shifted to SE - F.5 onshore, kicking up a heavy sea on the bar as the ebb started so we sailed into another cove and waited for the depression to pass; more reading and bird watching.

Saturday, sunny, wind SW - rose to F.7 by high water. Watched four yachts come in on the flood under reduced canvas and motor.

Sunday, wind SW - F.5-6. With one reef in we tore up the Ore in squalls of F.7 having to gybe several times so had quite a hectic time, it was a good test for the boat however as we were over canvassed. We had to anchor at Aldeburgh and close reef before beating further up the river. Nearby a 4 tonner was in difficulties through being over canvassed, otherwise no other sail in sight although the yacht car park was full. Anchored just above Aldeburgh in a sharp downpour which killed the wind. Surf was breaking over the peninsular just below Aldeburgh.

Monday, weighed anchor at 6.30 a.m. wind W - F.3. Sailed down to the entrance of the Ore by 10 a.m. The wind then died and we noticed that the sail had started to part from the bolt rope. This was quickly repaired and soon we were sailing fact on a course of 70º (ENE) wind SW - F.4 bound for Texel. Maureen parted with her breakfast at 5 p.m. whilst I had Irish stew! The wind died in the evening and left us slamming about in an uneven sea. At night the sea seemed to come alive with ships so we switched on the masthead light. One red light ahead, about 6 ft. above the water and only 50 yds. off, did not change its distance even though I tried sailing in various directions. It was uncanny. After a while it revealed itself as the moon rising above low level haze which accounted for its unusual colour.

Tuesday - wind SW - F1-2; the sea had by now become less lumpy so conditions were very pleasant. It was a deep, deep blue, a colour never seen within 10 miles of the east coast. At. 1 p.m. I took some bearings with the Homer Heron equipment. These gave our position with a maximum error of just over 2 miles and put us on course 63 miles out and 67 miles from Texel. The wind backed steadily and by 4 p.m. was N.E. so course was charged to 125º (SE) on course for the Hook of Holland. In the evening the wind freshened so we close reefed before darkness.

All operations in winds above F.3 were carried out without clambering over the boat as everything forward could be reached by standing up in the fore hatch. On watch our safety belts were clipped to the cabin life lines. These belts were also used on the trapeze which would only be used to beat out of a difficult situation on this voyage.

Wednesday - 1 a.m. wind E - F.5-6 and increasing so we lowered sail. I lashed yard and boom to the boom crutch which is hinged to the cabin top whilst Maureen, up forward, took in the jib and streamed the sea anchor. I then tightened up the mainsheet and passed it spiral fashion round yard and boom until Maureen could continue the process and finish up by lashing it round the mast, boom and yard jaws. I then shipped, dismantled and stowed the rudder and assembled the radar reflector. This was attached to the end of the boom by a foot of twin ⅜" shock cord and also the main halyard which Maureen swigged up. The terylene jib halyard was attached to a shackle on the stem and formed a second forestay. Two lengths of ¼” shock cord from the reflector to the aft corners of the cabin steadied the reflector, the windage of which assisted the action of the sea anchor.

The boat lay very comfortably, no more than 45º from the wind. I then uncorked the cockpit drain pipes but water came in through the windward one as waves slapped against the hull. A baffle was obviously required but all I could do was re-cork it for the time being. I then said goodbye to my Irish Stew and this destroyed an illusion I was building up concerning my immunity to sea sickness. Back in the cabin we screwed down the main hatch is case a freak sea came aboard aft during the night and found things so quiet that we both went to sleep. The wind was, however, not more than F.6. Looking out at 5 am we saw a naval vessel hovering around. It took up a position to windward and seemed to be discharging oil. This alarmed me considerably so I switched the morse key into circuit and sent "We are O.K.”; they did not reply but moved off.

The forecast was of continuing NE winds, so we had to decide whether to continue or turn back. We decided to turn back because: {1} Aurora’s performance to windward was poor in these steep seas. (2) We would make a landfall somewhere near the Hook; we had no large scale charts of this area and the North Sea Pilot information was out of date and terrifyingly complicated. (3) We had no wish to go to this area. (4) Time was passing and the chances of getting the right weather for sailing back were thus reduced and we did not relish the thought of Aurora being flung about on a steamer. (5) Although not ill, we could not face food and were not therefore in a position to enjoy a soaking beat to windward for two or three days.

We ran westwards under close reef and a D.F. bearing at 1 p.m. put us 15 miles S.W. of the previous day's position. Wind strength was steadily decreasing so we shook out the reefs. Much lightning was seen in the distance at nightfall.

Thursday. At 1 a.m. we lowered sails during a NE squall. The rain was torrential and lightning was stabbing into the sea all around us. The squall soon eased off but was followed by others so I just sat in the cockpit watching the storm and feeling a trickle of water down my neck even though I was wearing the latest super-duper one piece suit which "All the ocean racing types wear". 2 a.m. we set the sails close reefed and ran westwards, the storm gradually passing over. At 5 a.m. full sail, wind NNE. 6.30 a.m. Outer Gabbard Light Vessel sighted so adjusted course.

Wind rising, so we close reefed and as the rain came down in torrents I hastily popped back to my sleeping bag. Wind was NE - F. 5-6, visibility 200 yds., but the rain kept the sea down; the boat roared along. Visibility improved providentially as we crossed the coastal shipping lane but 2 miles off the Deben the wind died completely, visibility closed in and it just rained. The tide started to take us away from the entrance so I tinkered with the engine and we motored in at 4.30 p.m. Once the awning over the cockpit was up, we had a glorious wash and then a light meal, not daring to eat too much as we had had practically nothing for the last 3 days.

Friday. Cold NE wind. Had lunch ashore for a change and then sailed up to Woodbridge, which promised a delightfully peaceful anchorage. Some youths then played at "rocking the boat" by charging close by in an airborne lifeboat at maximum speed. Their enjoyment would have been less if they had known how little we minded after rocking about at sea.

Saturday - 28 July. Cats paws from NE then SE - F.3. Left Woodbridge after shopping and cleared the entrance of the Deben at 1.30 p.m. A perfect combination of continuous sunshine and light SE breeze. The water abounded with yachts of all types.

Arriving at Walton we bore away up Hampton Water on a rising tide then crept up one of the northernmost creeks amongst hills of mud and saltings. We were bent on an exploration of the northern part of the Walton Backwaters but high water was not until 10 p.m. so we left further exploration until the following morning. Crushed raspberries and cream for tea.

Sunday. Sunny with light southerly airs. Sculled and punted up tortuous channels until we reached a shallow inland sea at the very northernmost part of the Backwaters thus disproving the chart which showed deep water for this area. Here we nearly became stuck and had to pop overboard and push into deeper channels. After going ashore at a wildfowlers landing stage we passed down a creek leading to the sea. Along its lower reaches however, a series of rapids were formed by ridges of hard mud and Aurora was caught broadside with her stern on the bank and stem on a ridge. The force of the water heeled her over alarmingly and we struggled to free her before the falling tide left her perched precariously like a bridge over the channel. Once free, we were swept out stern first and anchored in Hamford Water for the afternoon. At the turn of the tide we motored up to a secluded creek at the top of Hamford Water.

Monday - Wind SW - F.3, dull intermittent sunshine. After a couple of false casts we found the right channel for Beaumont Quay. Here were many decaying signs of barge activities in the past. Only some of the massive piles remained but a barge was hidden in the saltings at the bottom of an overgrown garden and we marvelled, as we have often done before, at the ability of the barges to penetrate to such inland places. Pottering back, we entered the Twizzle from the top and eventually anchored near Stone Point at the entrance of the Walton Backwaters. It felt strange to be surrounded by other yachts.

Tuesday. Periods of sunshine, warm. Caught last of the ebb at 6 a.m. and made our way down the coast, the light W to SW wind freshening to F.4 to give an exhilarating beat to Mersea Stone. We left here soon owing to speedboat activities and anchored in a nearby creek. At 6 p.m. we decided to sail over to Bradwell but the wind fell light at 8 p.m. so to hell with sailing and on with the beautiful engine! Arrived 9.30 p.m.

Although it was disappointing not to complete our planned cruise, and one offshore cruise does not prove Aurora is a deep sea boat, we look forward to more varied cruising.