DCA Cruise Reports Archive

SOUTH COAST POTTERING

We planned to sail to the south coast by weekend stages and then start our holidays from somewhere near Christchurch. Our boat Aurora is a 13’6” cabin cruiser with 85 sq.ft. gunter rig and inboard engine.

Bradwell, Essex. Friday 31st May (Whit weekend) 2125 hrs. Wind ENE F3. Leaving the creek close hauled one hour after high water, Maureen took the helm whilst I tidied up below. The motion in the choppy conditions was quite violent and I had a job to tame some items up in the bow. I felt somewhat queasy when at last I came up for a breath of fresh air.

Arriving at the Spitway 0040 hrs the plate touched on the lee side of the channel and the boat started to drag ashore as spray from waves hitting broadside swept over the cockpit. We pulled the plate right up, gybed round and tacked off, a manoeuvre made possible by our old fashioned straight keel and deadwood.

Saturday. Wind ENE F3 0100 hrs. Beating down the Wallet an eye was kept on the many ships passing along the Sunk Deep and, choosing our time, we cut across the lane and headed on the course shown. Although we used a masthead light and torch with coloured lenses we preferred to keep out of the shipping lanes as much as possible. Visibility was good so navigation was straightforward, either the East Barrow or Tongue Light Vessels always being in sight. The sky began to lighten as we approached the Tongue and the wind freshened from the east. After passing the Tongue at 0600 hrs we reefed and set a rough course for the North Foreland.

We reached the coast between the North Foreland and Margate just as the flood tide was finishing and after a couple of tacks we were at the North Foreland at 0800 hrs. It was a lovely cloudless morning and with the wind easing to ENE F3 the reef was shaken out. Just then, the jubble off the point caused the boom to swing about and the mainsheet looped itself round the tiller pin, pulled the rudder right out then dropped it. The lower pintle re-engaged but the upper did not so was severely bent and the rudder useless. This had to happen, of course, with the cliffs right under our lee. We hove to whilst I straightened the pintle with a couple of box spanners and soon, with a fair tide and quartering F4 wind we were doing well. Four hours later between Dover and Folkestone with the wind freshening rapidly we close reefed and set the No.2 jib. On approaching Dungeness point it was blowing a fresh easterly and the beginning of the flood was raising a lumpy sea. Once past the point the wind was offshore and the tide was running fiercely against us. This increased the apparent force of the wind and the very short tumbling seas only a few inches high caused the hull to ‘unstick’. The bow wave moved back to the shrouds and a spume of water shot up two feet from the rudder. Approaching Rye we decided to put in as it was now 1800 hrs and blowing about 5-6.

Sunday. Morning forecast E F6. At 10.45 wind was E F4-5. Left close reefed with full regalia e.g. lifelines, lifejackets etc. The boat sailed steadily and the breeze gradually strengthened so that occasional breakers appeared. Reaching Beachy Head I put the main hatch in place and unplugged the cockpit drains. Some shoals had forced us near the coast so I brought the wind on to the port quarter in order to give the head a wide berth. Approaching the head itself the waves seemed to tower over the boat, frightening at first but beautiful and impressive as the boat lifted naturally to them. At Beachy Head the tide had turned against us but the strong wind kept the boat surging along until inevitably we were caught by one of the breakers. She broached to and momentarily lay on her side. I remember resting my forearm on the side of the cabin looking down at the top of Maureen’s head. With a crash the compass jumped out of its gimbals, I don’t know why and then the boat was upright again. In a few seconds we were on course once more, the compass was reinstalled and about three inches of water sponged from the cockpit. Most of the wave had passed over the boat. After this we only had a wave crest splatter on the aft deck then I gybed and started to close the shore where the waves were smaller. On closing the shore, fierce squalls of about F7 blew down from the cliffs and I had to play the mainsheet. A final drive past Newhaven eastern breakwater and we rounded to and anchored in the outer harbour at 1600 hrs just as the maroon went off for the lifeboat. After tidying up we motored into the harbour and had to wait for the launching of the lifeboat which was then cancelled, as the bathers in trouble at Brighton had been rescued by a speedboat.

Monday. Forecast E F6. This would make the entrance to Littlehampton, the next port, difficult so we went home.

Friday 7th June. Left Newhaven 2330 hrs. No wind so motored until 0500 when we anchored in crystal clear water off Worthing to wait for the west going tide. Raised the hook 0800, wind light NW, soon became calm. A yacht motored near and told us to beware the power boat race so we motored to the Looe Channel off Selsey Bill. Visibility hazy and then wind light SW so sailed to Chichester bar and anchored awaiting the tide. Started drifting/sailing westwards again in the evening past Ryde and Cowes, shaving silently past various yachts at anchor off Wootton Creek in the warm darkness. In the early dawn a useful NE breeze came up which enabled us to make Keyhaven on the last of the tide.

It was a hot day with a fine wind, but this was an ideal place to leave Aurora for the three weeks until our holiday. None better we thought until the boatman asked 15/- a week for a mooring but murmurs of surprise coupled with tactful bargaining brought the price down.

When we arrived early Saturday morning for the start of our holiday the scene was very different, low grey clouds racing overhead, intermittent rain, deserted shore and bare waving masts where gay sails had been. Not even an invitation to dinner with a friend whose yacht was in Yarmouth could tempt us out that day and to ensure a peaceful night we took the mud in Mount Lake within sound of the breakers beating on the shingle bank. We did the grounding bit so thoroughly that Aurora was not afloat until 1 p.m. on Sunday so for the afternoon we indulged in a pleasant run back to Newtown and explored Clamerkin Creek to its upper limit where a family of swans insisted there was not room for Aurora and them so we gave them best and anchored in a peaceful deserted part nearer the entrance.

Monday 0700 saw Aurora beating westwards through the Needles Channel and the force 4 SW gave an exhilarating board to Poole. Entered against the last of the ebb which was causing quite a sea. Found Poole a dinghy sailor’s paradise. Shallow enough to anchor almost anywhere, islands to explore and provide sheltered anchorages, channels well marked but not so well as to be uninteresting and pleasant, variable scenery.

Next day we followed the river up to Wareham between rush banks and were able to practise our sculling/sailing technique. The sculling oar replaced the rudder and provided sufficient control in winds up to F3. On reaches of the river where the wind was ahead sculling was the means of propulsion and the crew held the boom up above the sculler’s head until the sail filled again. On Wednesday we explored another arm of Poole Harbour under a railway bridge where there was barely room to squeeze underneath even with the mast down. The day was sunny and windy and several hours were spent high and dry in solitude watching the natural life.

On Thursday with the wind still persistently in the SW quarter, we gave up hope of a cruise to the West Country and decided to spend more time in the Solent. Christchurch provided the next pleasant anchorage and river for exploration. The River Stour above Christchurch sees few boats because of shallow depth and weeds and Aurora’s prowess at ditch crawling was proved, however, even she could not leap up the weir which barred our way after about five miles. The crew’s passion for fish and chips was satisfied that evening and a cosy anchorage chosen near the entrance under Hengistbury Head. Saturday passed doing glorious nothing because it rained heavily and continuously with no wind. In fact, we did not get up until teatime and a brisk walk over Hengistbury Head in the evening made sure we had another solid night’s rest.

The following week was passed pleasantly with no lack of wind or sun exploring the less well known creeks and rivers in the Solent area at the end of which Aurora was left at anchor at the Hardway, Gosport until we returned a fortnight later for the D.C.A. Rally.

Having attended the rally and accompanied Len Steele and his boys to Shalfleet on the first leg of their cruise, we parted company on Monday 29th July and headed east against a light SE wind. The United States was at anchor in the Spitway and we gave way to the Queen Mary passing through the forts!

Langstone Harbour provided a pleasant quiet anchorage but on going ashore the following morning to provision we could find no water tap and were refused water at the store. However, as our purchases were vast the proprietor capitulated and furtively filled our cans and placed them outside the back gate to pick up on our exit. Apparently the water is metered to this part of the world and there are many holidaymakers coming in asking for water. The day started sunny and calm but after drifting for about three hours the engine had to be called on to push Aurora through the Looe Channel off Selsey Bill before the tide turned. A wind came up from the NE and the day became grey so we motor-sailed but were too late to beat the tide into Littlehampton so had to anchor off for the night. There was no cooking and very little sleep because of the swell.

Wednesday 31 July. Left Littlehampton 1000 SE F3 later 4. Sunny. Could almost lay course so made progress against three hours of ebb. When tide turned and wind increased sea became rough so entered Shoreham 3 p.m. Anchored above first two bridges. Were used as a marker buoy by various speed boats when the tide rose.

Thursday 1 August. Left Shoreham 12 noon in SE F2-3, later 1-2. Took 9 hours to make good 12 miles against light headwind and popple. Arrived Newhaven 8 p.m. Thames barge Sirdar in advertising Bell’s Scotch whiskey on her mains’l which had been left up. Ketch Yankee from Mystic U.S.A. also came in just before us from the east. Very smart and new with V-shaped bowsprit and cockpit forward of main cabin giving good visibility.

Friday 2 August. Meant to catch 4 a.m. tide but persuaded ourselves weather wasn’t good enough. Heard harbour fog siren going so walked along pier to investigate weather conditions — very hazy and weak F1 from SE. Walked over cliffs in p.m. and were threatened by a herring gull. Marina appeared well used — mostly motor boats.

Saturday 3 August. Left Newhaven 5 a.m., misty, raining. Light NW wind soon became W F2, so used spinnaker. Lost sight of coast for most of day. Wind fell light and tide turned, so anchored in 17 fathoms for lunch. Wind came up from SW F3 so headed inshore as visibility worsened. Arrived Rye at low water 5 p.m. Stooged about for an hour then found entrance and sculled in. Every inch of the bottom and sides of channel covered with mussels. Berthed 2030.

Sunday 4 August. No water to get away so had to wait until 0800. Engine just strong enough to get us over the flood and off entrance by 0845. Cloudy SW 2-4. Misty. Held on to full sail until off Folkestone then took in one reef. Dover ferries very busy. Off North Foreland 1830 and wind fell light. Shook out reef, tide turned and made slow progress. Wind drew westerly making us close hauled and increased so made good progress to Tongue Light Vessel. Took in a reef just before dark as wind continued to increase. Next course was to Barrow Deep L.V. but about three miles off we crossed the Barrow Deep at right angles as it is such a busy shipping lane. The ebb set in and we had to tack up the East Swin to the Spitway. Although we could see the Spitway buoys flashing our tacks took us no nearer. The boat was taking a battering from the seas, rain poured down and visibility decreased until neither buoys nor lightship could be seen and we had been tacking about four hours without making any progress. However, all good things come to an end and the ebb eased and visibility improved. We scraped through the Spitway in a very grey dawn and started down the Wallet close hauled with no coastline visible. Eventually we made out the tree-line on Mersea Island and further tacking brought us into Bradwell about 1000. After being away nine weeks it was good to be on our own mooring once more.