"Shoal Waters" Summer Cruise
Shoal Waters is a Fairey Falcon hull fitted with the gear from an earlier half decker. My plan for the summer holiday was to explore the Thames Estuary, sailing out round the banks when weather permitted and then delving deep into the heart of the Suffolk, Essex and Kent countryside wherever a disused mill, a derelict wharf or an old jetty showed that ships had once traded under sail.
HW Friday 5th June was at 1715 hrs. At that moment I slipped the mooring and set off into a SE breeze 3-4. Never had gear been more carefully put on board. Every detail down to clipping finger and toenails had been attended to. The sun shone as I beat down past Bradwell @ 1845 hrs. What better way to start such a cruise than to watch the start of the Southend barge match on Saturday morning! I was pointing towards the Buxey beacon at 2050, a newish moon over the Dengie shore and a chill in the air. I found the new buoys marking the funnel of the Ray Sand Channel. Into the Crouch at 2150 hrs and into the Roach 2315 hrs, almost rammed by a yacht under motor, the helmsman being blinded by his cabin lights. On under Havengore Bridge at 0315 hrs ducking my mast for they do not open at night. By first light I could just see the defence boom off Shoeburyness and reached the barges off Southend pier at 0705 hrs as the wind died to a flat calm.
A little sleep, a dull start to a drifting match and then I eased over to the Medway in light airs from NE and took the flood tide up the Medway to Woodham, returning on the ebb to run on to the mud at Bishops Oaze 2115 hrs.
Sunday 13th June. I awoke at 0430 hrs. to find a good SW breeze. Visions of a record sail to Suffolk! I got away at 0500 hrs. but the wind died after the tide turned at 0645 hrs., and by 1030 I was becalmed off the West Barrow, washing and shaving in the warm sunshine waiting for the SE breeze to rescue me. There were seals on the banks. I rounded the Whittaker at 1430 hrs. and on through Burnham, exploring Lion Creek on the way to Stow Creek at 1830 for a meal before the ebb set in. A calmish sail back to the river mouth at 2215 hrs.
Monday, I left with ebb 0730, wind light variable mainly NE and stood out to sea on the port tack rounding Barrow Deep light vessel just after low water. As the wind was more easterly I decided to press on for Harwich, crossing the gunfleet sand just north of the old light tower. I reached the harbour with the last of the flood, and moored south of the jetty at 1950 hrs. So to bed as the rain came down. Tuesday - rain and wind from north. Away at 0445 on the flood to Wolverstone and then back out of Harwich in steady rain which lasted until 1400 by which time I had found the Spitway from where I picked up a fine flood tide to Leigh at 2000 hrs.
Wednesday - a few moments ashore refilling the water cans, dumping gash and a little shopping. Wind forecast NW 3-4. I was away at 0830 hrs for a steady sail to round the Longnose at 1530 and on south past Ramsgate. A difficult trip across Pegwell Bay at very low water and a dull sail through the marshes to Sandwich at 1900. It would be new territory from now on. I beat up to the power station as it grew dark and then got a better breeze through country very like the Norfolk Broads to moor at Plucks Gutter at 2320 hrs.
Thursday. Perfect calm sunny morning as I waited for the tide to flood (4 hours flood, 8 ebb). Left at 0900 and beat along Broads type country to within three miles of Canterbury at 1400 hrs passing under a coalmine conveyor en route. I turned with the tide and met the evening flood a mile or so above the power station at 2100 hrs. Slept over the flood and at 0200 got away on the ebb to Sandwich at 0700. More sleep, shopping and ready for sea again. The river rises sharply here while the tide is still ebbing at a furious rate. A pity I could not have stayed longer.
Friday. I was now at the SE corner of the Thames Estuary so the wind came in from the SE. I left at noon just before HW and ran along the Kent coast, inside Sheppey and moored north of Elmly when I met the flood tide from the Medway at 2230 hrs.
Saturday - Overcast and calm when I awoke at 0500. Just got off the mud and under Kingsferry Bridge as wind grew from the SW. Beat up the Thames and reached Canvey bridge (from Hole Haven) at 1100 in heavy rain. Left at noon HW but there was little wind and made very slow progress down the Swin. Moored over the flood at 2100 over the edge of Foulness Sands. Sunday 0100 hrs. Light SW airs and moon behind the clouds. Set off for Suffolk. Very slow journey. Spitway at 0200 and on towards Walton. Too late to reach Suffolk on this ebb. Decided to anchor off the gut into Walton and slept from 0530 until 0830, then into Walton Backwaters, round Horsey Island, up to the club for water and shopping and away with the ebb. Scorching sunshine, calms and breezes, round the Cork Light Vessel at l615 hrs. and on to the Ore Bar. There were several boats waiting outside. I managed to cross the bar and anchored off the north bank for tea while the ebb died. I went on up the river at 1900 hrs, reached Orford at 2100 and so to bed.
Monday, another fine day. I left on flood tide at 0730, took some colour slides from the Martello Tower at Aldeburgh and then on to Snape at 1215. The wind had been NE but veered round SE and then SW. Left at 1400 over the last of the flood and out of the river entrance at 1805. I beat down to Bawdsey at 1955 and ran up the river to moor just off the Woodbridge,Y.C. at 2200.
Tuesday. Left at 0305 hrs. Overcast, wind SW and it looked as though the best of the weather was over. By the 0645 forecast which gave SW 5-6. I was out of the entrance with one reef in beating for Harwich. Moored off Wrabness at 0900 to enjoy breakfast to housewives choice. Then full reefed with small jib to Manningtree for shopping at 1045 and then I ducked under Cattawade bridge towards Flatford. There are no lock gates now and the mill race is being used as a rubbish dump. Ebb tide to Harwich and ran to Pin Mill before the rising SW gale.
Wednesday - a lazy day. Moored over on the western shore at HW Thursday, Force 9 at 0200 so stayed put. Left for Ipswich at flood and ran back to Walton for the night as the 1755 forecast was still gale warnings. Friday - time was getting short now if I was to maintain my record of never failing to return to my mooring on time. Ran to Shotley Spit. Harwich was a wild sight. A boring day. Still gale warnings; the gear was stowed as never before. I even put the rest of the tea bags in a smaller box so that they didn't rattle too much!
Saturday. 0200 hrs had a look out of the harbour in the moonlight but still gale warnings although things looked better. Back to Shotley. 0645 forecast SW 5-6 moderating. Away at 0730, lifeline and all that, for a spanking starboard tack almost to the Spitway Buoy and thence round Colne Point at 1320 and up to Colchester at HW and back to Ray Creek for the night. Sunday, another perfect day, light SW breeze. I sailed round the Buxey Beacon before breakfast and up to Maldon at 1600 to complete the holiday apart from picking up my mooring. 588 sea miles in 190 hours of sailing.
Recap of route: Heybridge, Havengore, Medway, Fambridge, Wolverstone, Leigh, Sandwich and on to Canterbury, inside Sheppey, round Canvey, round Horsey in Walton Backwaters, Snape, Woodbridge, Mistley and under Cattawade bridge, Ipswich, Walton Backwaters, Shotley, Colchester, and Maldon.