SOME SOUTH COAST JOTTINGS
Having so often enjoyed our Bulletin and through it some evocation in landlocked winter of summer sea and sail, I feel the prick of conscience. The more so when I read those familiar pleas from our respected editor who, by magical means, always manages to produce a publication.
A sick-bed is a great glorifier of seasons past and trips which at the time were about as pleasant as a burst hot water bottle at dawn. So being temporarily (I hope) indisposed, I take up pen. But what to write? What of those brief trips? Who wants to read of my puny sorties, the minor misfortunes and my sillinesses? I am sure no one would find useful or be interested in a precise account of a complete inversion with the mast caught in the sea bed in a force 5 a mile or so off Hengistbury Head (in mitigation, it was an Int. 5o5), or to hear how the main halyard of my old Gull came to be insecurely tied to the gaff allowing it and sail to fall on me while rowing frantically against a spring tide to avoid being swept on to rocks on a windless occasion. Similarly of little use or interest would be my praises of the Gull and its face saving stability, or how I did not sail my newly acquired Albacore to the Ashlett Creek rally.
You see, I now have a considerable sense of inferiority having heard Slade Penoyre make his Atlantic crossing sound disarmingly simple, and having heard Charles Stock and our eloquent president talking about their cruising activities, to say nothing of a viewing of the Frank Dye film. I will, therefore, try to write something which may be of use. Inevitably, anything I might have to offer must be directed towards the less experienced of our members.
It occurred to me that some members are likely to consider sail and trail excursions to the central south coast. I happen to know the region immediately west of the Solent quite well and in particular Christchurch Harbour and Mudeford. This is, of course, situated approximately midway between Hurst Point and Poole Bar, so that one has within reasonable range both the western Solent and Poole Harbour with its alleged 90 miles of channels. I feel, therefore, that Mudeford can be a good base or port of call for the dinghy sailor.
The trip east to the Solent between the Shingles and the coast past Barton and Milford is pleasant as, unlike the Bournemouth side, it is largely uncluttered. The shallow waters over the Shingles are, of course, to be avoided in fresh winds as nasty breaking seas develop. At the approach to Hurst beach the N.E. edge of the Shingles is clearly marked by the black conical North Head buoy (not marked on my chart) and the red North East Shingles buoy. There are no other hazards along this stretch from Mudeford, barring, perhaps, the large dolphins (I mean large) which sometimes gambol near the boat. I would rather do without a thump from one of these fellows. The entrance to Hurst Narrows has, naturally, to be treated with respect as there are eddies and dangerous overfalls when the tide is running fast (spring rate 4.4 knots) and with wind against tide, conditions can be very nasty for a small boat or dinghy. It is best entered, therefore, at about high water on the last of the flood. Most small craft favour a fairly in-shore passage round Hurst Point, though watch for sudden shallows at The Trap. Remember, when inside, that Solent tides run fast, so do not leave your anchor at home.
The character of the shore line to the west of Mudeford is rather different, with the vast Bournemouth conurbation stretching to Poole Harbour. However, one gets a certain satisfaction in being apart from it, observing the finely textured panorama. The approach to Poole Harbour is clearly marked by Poole Bar buoy a mile north of Standfast Point and thence by a long line of port and starboard buoys with Bar Sand and Training Bank to port and Hook Sand to starboard. The tide can run through here quite fast, also a nasty sea can develop as the result of fresh winds from the easterly quarter. Inside, the main channel bears to starboard of Brownsea Island and the Wych Channel lies between it and the island’s eastern shore. To port, South Deep channel winds off westward round Brownsea past Goathorn Point, Furze Island and Green Island. This is a particularly delightful spot and one is now allowed to land and I believe camp on Brownsea for a small fee to the National Trust warden. There are, of course, many other camping places in the harbour. My local sailing club annually organises a weekend camping cruise to Green Island. This makes a most satisfactory two-day sortie from Mudeford.
Poole Harbour is supposed to be the second-largest natural harbour in the world; with its seven islands and innumerable channels and inlets it has been described as a dinghy sailor’s paradise. The western side is certainly very beautiful and desolate and abounds in wildlife. A large scale chart is a must for an extended stay. It pays to watch the gulls on the water as well as the time and tide, for one can suddenly realise that those birds ahead are not swimming but walking, and a hasty gybe and retreat down-channel is called for. The minor channels are marked by stakes, and so too are the minor, minor ones. The net result can be very confusing. I once met a couple who had been sailing their dinghy exclusively in the harbour for five years and still had not explored it all, nor had they ventured outside to sea.
Outside to the south is Studland Bay, the southern end of which makes a pleasant anchorage in settled conditions. It is a nice place to swim, and at that end the beach is not crowded, being guarded from the madding crowd by an outcrop of rocks. On a fine day you will find a number of craft anchored enjoying the spot. There is a path to the village through the trees where there is a pleasant pub if alcohol levels need attention.
Talking of pubs, the Shipwrights Arms, with its own water frontage on the south side of the channel opposite Poole Quay, is worth mentioning. You can tie up, enjoy a pint and a sandwich, and watch all the comings and goings to and from the quay and Holes Bay of everything from dinghies to magnificent ocean racers. Sometimes you are lucky enough to catch the lifting bridge opening for a tanker or some such. In view of the traffic and the confined area, to say nothing of the lack of co-ordination between opening hours and tidal stream, an outboard is obviously favourite on approach and for getting away.
An outboard, I feel, is a great boon in that it allows you to do things that would otherwise be impossible. At Christchurch Harbour, about which I had primarily intended to write, an outboard is not much use against the enormous influx and efflux of the tide at full spate through the entrance — the “Run” as it is called. The current here can reach a speed of 9 knots and has to be seen to be appreciated. One needs, therefore, to accord with the tide when entering or leaving harbour. There is a double high water here, that is, a ‘stand’ of water of about 3 hours after first high water, during which time the current may flow out and in a little, depending on conditions. If you have trailed to Mudeford Quay, have not any tidal information and want to go for a sail, the high and low water times are chalked up outside the harbour attendant’s hut which overlooks the Run at the end of the car park. Local tide tables can be obtained from Aquaboats, the chandlers at Highcliffe, 5 minutes away by car.
There is a good car park at Mudeford Quay, though on a fine Sunday afternoon it can occasionally get full. Amenities here include water, conveniences, pub and café while there are shops within a few minutes walk. Launching is easy from the beach by the dinghy park, at the end of which is a right of way.
You will find a general clutter of craft in the shallows off the beach, though a clearway marked by white buoys is supposed to be preserved. Beware of anchors lurking beneath the surface in readiness to hole your boat. To your left, about 25 yards off the extreme end of the quay is a small black buoy. Do not be tempted to cut on the inside of this when rounding the corner but give it a fairly wide berth as there are rocks there. Needless to say, do not try to go directly across the end of the Run in calm conditions when the tide is at full ebb unless you intend being swept outside. With a dinghy it is possible to launch and get out to sea at dead low water, but I would not recommend it, for there is only about 12 inches of water over the bar. The rise at springs is about 4 ft. 6 ins. The channel seawards varies its course from year to year, but is clearly marked by port and starboard buoys. It runs parallel to the quay for the length of the car park, and then winds sharply seawards. There are no offshore hazards until the end of the Shingles Bank and the Needles which glisten on the horizon about 6 miles distant. In fact there are some rocks charted just off Mudeford, but they are well covered, and no one among the dinghy sailing fraternity worries about them. Off Hengistbury Head in heavy weather you will find steep confused seas resulting from the shelving sea bed.
If waiting for the tide to turn in order to enter harbour, it is necessary to delay entry for about 40 minutes after the stated low water until the outgoing current in the Run subsides. It is possible, however, to enter against the tide by making for the inside of the exposed spit adjacent to the Run, disembarking and towing the boat along the shallows into the harbour. Tip — lash the tiller to port (with rudder raised) and you can tow comfortably without the boat constantly grounding. Incidentally, if there is a decent wind and you want to sail up the Run against the last of the ebb, have the plate and rudder raised as much as possible, and keep really close into the shallows along the spit. It is surprising how much difference this makes.
Directly inside the harbour the main channel bears sharply to port along the beach, and only its starboard side is buoyed until it turns to starboard beyond the landing stage. From then onwards port and starboard buoys mark the passage to Christchurch about 3 miles inland. This is a pleasant trip through grassland and reeds with horses grazing at the water’s edge and with Christchurch Priory silhouetted in the background. Most of the harbour except the main channel dries out at low water, but at high water you can sail almost anywhere you wish. There are plenty of places on the margins to anchor in a dinghy, in splendid isolation, if you so desire.
I am rather fond of the place. It has a friendly, faintly Monsieur Hulot quality. There is always plenty of marine activity and therefore plenty to watch if one is not sailing. I have spent many a happy hour just browsing on the quay. I can recommend Christchurch Harbour as a port of call for the dinghy man. As a footnote, I would mention that these periods of inactivity have sometimes been due to a lack of crew. If there is anyone to whom the Lymington/Christchurch area is readily accessible and who would like to crew, I should be pleased to hear from them.