General Impressions

Although only 220 miles from London, Dartmouth and the surrounding South Devon area is very largely unspoilt. One important reason for this rare situation, these days, must surely be the presence of the winding country lanes between London and the West Country, known officially as the A30 and the A303.

The river Dart is probably the most beautiful in the country, certainty rivalling the Thames at its grandest, near Maidenhead. Wooded hills slope down to the water’s edge and the branches overlap the river. The whole river is blessed with little traffic, this being one of its especially attractive features.

Dartmouth and Kingswear flank the lower reaches of the river with a jumble of houses, many of them very old, scattered over the hillsides overlooking the river. Due to the rocky nature of the riverside, houses are built right on the water’s edge, giving a Mediterranean effect to the scene.

Outside the harbour and river, the very open Start Bay lies to the west, curving out 2½ miles to Start Point. To the east, the rocky coast bears round to Berry Head, which shelters Brixham and Torbay from the westerly winds.

Sailing at Dartmouth

Dartmouth offers the best of all sailing conditions:

— open sea: Start Bay — sheltered deep water: Dartmouth harbour — river sailing: The Dart

Sailing is possible at all states of the tide up to Dittisham, 4 miles above Dartmouth and the river is very wide in this reach. Above Dittisham sailing is possible, around high water, a further 5 miles up to Totnes. This journey passes through wooded scenery and the river twists and turns extensively, challenging the abilities of the best of river sailors. The creeks running off the Dart offer variations in excursions but, without exception, they all dry out several feet above the low water level in the main channel.

Outside the river, Start Bay offers a variety of trips; a number of small coves and villages exist along this part of the coast, offering picnic possibilities. However, it would be unwise to beach on this exposed coast when a strong onshore wind is blowing.

Start Point and Berry Head should be treated with great respect. There is a tide race off Start, with overfalls; Berry Head also sets up some rough water. It is significant that no pleasure boat trips exist between Dartmouth and Salcombe. The harbourmaster at Torquay displays a series of weather condition flags. One of these flags prohibits the passage of pleasure boat trips between Torbay and Dartmouth. Personally, I would not recommend passing these points unless in settled weather with light winds. Alternatively, someone calling into Dartmouth on a coastal cruise can stand well out from these headlands to avoid the rough water.

Launching Sites

There are four that I have noticed but I have only used one — the Higher Ferry slip.

1. The public slip near the Lower Ferry in Dartmouth Town. Congested area, lack of immediate parking space, continuous flow of car ferry traffic.

2. Boat Float slip, mid-promenade. The Boat Float is a tidal basin, suitable only for small craft. There is a cobbled slip on the seaward side of the basin. Unsuitable to back a car down for recovery purposes. Good parking nearby but slip sometimes blocked by local boats hauled out for repair. Any dinghy launched here must lower mast in order to pass under the road bridge. No access at low water.

3. Higher Ferry public slip, top end of the promenade. Wide concrete slip alongside the ferry slip. Free boat park across the road and parking nearby. Launching possible at all times, except around low water, when the rocky end of slip exposed. Care should be taken of the wash caused by the ferry paddle-wheels, when near. However, it is easy to time activities to fit in with the movements of the ferry. Cars may be used on the slip with plenty of room to spare. Chain ferry: beware of chains on either side of ferry.

4. Ferry slip at Dittisham. 4 miles upriver; very quiet village. Parking possible on the beach, but note the tide marks first. No parking in the village at all. Launching from the very gently sloping slip may cause problems at low water.

Also at Greenway ferry slip opposite. Small car park on quay. Launching any time.

I understand there is also a slip near the Royal Dart Yacht Club at Kingswear. Likely to be congested area for parking, but more convenient to anyone staying on this side of the river. N.B. Advise not Kingswear or Stoke Gabriel.

Other slips Dart Marina above upper ferry. Charge 5/- to launch at any state of the tide. Concrete slip, parking facilities and chandlery shop. For launching consult piermaster at marina.

Totnes Milltail concrete public slip. Three hours each side of high water. Parking close by.

Tidal Conditions

There is no bar at the river mouth, and entry is possible at all states of the tide. The usual wind over tide conditions can cause a lumpy sea, but there is nothing to worry about.

Above Dittisham, the river is much reduced in size at low tide, but at the Dartmouth end there is always plenty of water.

When the tide is in full flood, its presence is very much felt (unlike Falmouth, for instance). Upriver, the bends in the river cause interesting problems with tidal eddies and deflections. At Dartmouth, the width and depth (50 feet in some places) help to offset the strength of the tide.

Outside, in Start Bay, on the ebb, the tide sets down the bay to Start Point, so that I suggest that anyone who sails out of the river on a dying wind should either have an outboard with them or be prepared for an energetic row back.

Wind Conditions

The river runs generally north-south, and is sheltered on all sides by low hills. However, wooded slopes and open cross valleys funnel the wind in a manner to make for some lively sailing. Vicious downward slams occur when the wind is gusting around force 4. A sail up to Totnes in gusty conditions is quite exhausting. In which case, the next day’s sail can be out in Start Bay, where a steady wind can be appreciated once more. Vicious downward slams also occur close inshore along the coast to Slapton when winds are off-shore.

Harbour Dues

All craft using the harbour are liable for dues. For a 12 foot dinghy, for example, the fee is 5/- per week or part thereof. The harbourmaster’s office is at Lloyds’ Bank Chambers, which fronts the west side of the Boat Float. During the Summer, the barograph readings are displayed outside the office, together with a weather forecast and sea conditions for the area.

Yacht Clubs

I have noticed three clubs but I have not visited any of them. They are listed below:

Royal Dart Yacht Club, Kingswear Dartmouth Sailing Club, 22 South Embankment, Dartmouth Dittisham Sailing Club, Dittisham, South Devon

Also Totnes Boating Association, Totnes.

The Dartmouth Royal Regatta is held at the end of August and lasts for three days.

Maps and Guides

The Imray maps for the area are:

Y.43 Exmouth to Salcombe Y.47 The River Dart

The Stanford Channel Chart has an inset map of the Dart river.

For information on Dartmouth generally, the official guide at 1/- is worth buying. It also includes a tide table.

Chudley’s Torbay and Dartmouth Tide Table includes a useful little chart of the Dart, price 1/-.

Camping

Trees growing right down to the high water mark, rocky foreshores and mudbanks will present problems for camping with a dinghy. Nevertheless, I am certain that the determined camper will find some riverside sites, probably above Dittisham. Alternatively, the river is very suitable for sleeping afloat, and it is possible to “borrow” a mooring for the night.

For camping and caravan sites away from the river, please consult the official guide or a camping or caravan site handbook.

Dinghy Park

Coronation Park, Dartmouth, by Higher Ferry Slip, Charge 7/6 per week — no special facilities for this fee.

These notes have been checked by Mr J Taylor who lives locally at Totnes. His comments are much appreciated. I McC.

Harbourmaster for Dartmouth: Capt. T F Penney Harbourmaster for Totnes and Dittisham, Mr A S Brook

If any members are in the area and are going to sail, I will be pleased to give any help or information. John Taylor Manor Lodge Totnes

Telephone: Totnes 3137 Evenings: Buckfastleigh 3291