West Country Rivers Yachting Monthly Publication Ordnance Survey Map No.201 Stanfords Chart No.13: Start Point to Lands End Getting Afloat Launching sites guide

The five rivers and the Sound which comprise the Plymouth area create a dinghy cruising ground of great variation and interest without necessitating long coastal passages. A launching site has to be chosen bearing in mind the landward approach as well as the usual concerns like parking, depth of water, steepness of slope, availability of winch etc. The valleys of the upper reaches of these rivers are narrow, as are many of the roads. As most trailer-sailors are likely to approach from the east, one of the Plymouth sites could be chosen. The Elphinstone sailing complex, including car and dinghy park, approached from the Barbican or Citadel Road is municipal and charges are modest. The Mayflower Sailing Club on Sutton Pool, as well as the Barbican and Sutton Harbour marinas, are also recommended for those who like to be near civilisation. Further eastwards along this shore is Queen Anne’s Battery, with a massive slip. Visitors are welcome — normally used for open meetings and overflows. A recommended guest house with an understanding proprietor is Coolhaze, Elburton Road, Plymouth, run by Mr Poole, who provides bed and breakfast.

We chose Calstock (Getting Afloat No.S372) as we are comparatively inexperienced at trailing and launching and like to approach the whole business at a leisurely pace without being bustled off the ramp in a state of confusion. The yard owner was friendly and helpful without being obtrusive, and found a shady spot to park car and trailer. The £2.50 charge for eight days was a surprise, but compared later with other boatyard launchings we found it was very reasonable. It was worth the peace of mind knowing the car and trailer were safe during our absence.

The other launching site on the east bank of the Tamar is Weir Quay, about four miles inland of the Saltash Bridge. There is a boat yard and sailing club, the former with gently shelving concrete hard and the latter with similar, though shingle. The site is not mentioned in Getting Afloat, but the club welcomes visitors.

The Tamar is perhaps the most interesting and certainly the longest river, being navigable to just below the weir at Gunnislake where it becomes very shallow. There are lock gates to by-pass the weir and the river looks navigable for many more miles upstream. Every so often along the wooded banks can be seen the stonework of overgrown quays, indicating the importance of the river for transport in the old days. Calstock itself was an active boat building centre in the 19th century. Just below Calstock and on the same bank is the quay, slipway and cluster of cottages of the Cotehele estate. Dinghies can be launched here and left safely locked away in a yard from the many visitors at a cost comparable with the Calstock yard. The house, gardens, mill and woods are National Trust property (open every day 11-6pm). If the tide serves, there is sufficient water about three hours either side of high water to land at the quay. Otherwise the single track railway from Gunnislake to Devonport and Plymouth via Calstock provides an interesting ride, and the station is within easy walking distance of Cotehele.

The tide floods into the upper reaches of the Tamar at a great rate, then the water has very little current for several hours, after which it goes out like the bath water. All the rivers are lined by soft mud banks at low tide and, typically, the wind blows straight up and down — nine times out of ten against you. We had more than one escape from the fishing nets which are rowed out across the stream and circled slowly back to the bank — presumably for salmon or trout. Anywhere on this river provides a safe snug anchorage, except that the pleasure launches create a strong wash around high water in daylight hours.

The Tavy is quite short in comparison with the Tamar because navigation is blocked by a dam about four miles from the entrance. The railway bridge seems an obstacle, but our 21ft mast passed under easily enough an hour after high water neaps. On entry, keep to the starboard side of the river if the mud to port is not already showing. The chart or O.S. map shows the course of the river between extensive shallow mudbanks until suddenly the river narrows. It is worth short tacking against the inevitable headwind along this quarter mile stretch to open out the attractive pool and surroundings below the dam. A landing can be made to inspect the salmon ladder and walk in the woods above the reservoir, though even inflatable dinghies are not allowed to float on Plymouth’s water supply. A safe snug anchorage can be found anywhere on this river provided you don’t want to go ashore below half tide, and there are few boats moored.

The River Lynher provides many miles of interesting waterway to explore. The navy overflows into the lower reaches with their sailing dinghies and yachts, but there is plenty of room for all — this being one of the pleasantest features of sailing these rivers. A DCA paradise must be Wackers Wood on the south bank of the river just below the right angled bend. In the upper reaches, the river divides into three tributaries, only the central one of which we explored. On the left bank is the picturesque bath pond house, which is part of the National Trust Property of Antony House, open Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays in the summer. This tributary flows many winding miles eventually through rustling reed beds, and we turned back only because it was becoming too narrow for our 14ft. turning circle. Herons always featured in the ever-changing scenery of this river, and buzzards drew attention to their presence with their mewing.

The Hamoaze is where the navy lives, and on the east bank is dockland. All three rivers combine into this estuary, and although deep and wide, the current is quite strong, and the shape of the land contributes towards making it a windier place than outside on the coast. Apart from the warships at anchor or alongside the jetties, the water is bustling with activity. Tugs, barges, launches and ferries all keep you on the alert. A warning — many of the pleasure launches moor in Millbrook Lake, so that what seems a quiet, deserted, peaceful stretch of shallow sheltered water in the daytime has a high commuting population of bustling noisy boats. However, for camping sailing there is a good deal to be said for Millbrook, as you get the advantages of a beautiful mud peninsular with all cars successfully cut off from you and only ten minutes sail from Plymouth’s shore line. Also, you are near the sea, and don’t have a long flog up or down river to get to a swimming beach. The ferry slip at Cremyll provides launching space for any size of trailed boat.

The current runs fast in the constricted entrance between The Sound and Hamoaze, so it is best to use the ebb and flood for passing this point as the wind is usually fickle. The obstructions between Drake’s Island and the western shore are obvious, otherwise the Sound and Cawsand Bay provide large sailing areas hazard-free. The muddy banks turn to rock and sand in the Sound, and the recommended landing and bathing beaches are Barn Pool and Cawsand Bay in westerlies, and Bovisand Bay in easterlies.

The north bank of the River Plym upstream of Queen Anne’s Battery is all commercial wharves as far as Laira Bridge. To starboard, starting from Mount Batten Pier, we have RAF Mount Batten. Landing at the pier is not recommended because of ledges. Further up to starboard is the village of Turnchapel, where overnight anchorage can be arranged. Sam Rogers, secretary of the Hooe Point Sailing Club, welcomes DCA members to use the facilities of this embryo club. The members are still working on the site and there is no water or toilets yet, but there is a wooden hut, slip and winch, plenty of car parking and boat parking room. Guests are usually asked to leave a couple of quid or so for the treasurer to help with site work. This is at Turnchapel, within ten minutes sail of the Sound, and launching can be accomplished at all states of tide except low water springs. At such time the Navy slip alongside can be used. There are one or two guest houses providing bed and breakfast at cheap rates in Turnchapel. The compound of the club is locked, so visitors should contact Sam Rogers, 8 Seymour Park, Mannamead, Plymouth in advance. An alternative launching site at high water is at the Royal Oak in the south east corner of Hooe Lake.

Only small boats can sail under Laira Bridge, upstream of which the scene changes to pleasantly rural, full of sea birds and edged by the National Trust property Saltram, where there is a Camping Club-only site. It is possible to launch light dinghies from the camp site, but sailing would be restricted as this part of the river mostly dries out. From Laira Bridge to Saltram camp site, which is the head of navigation, is 1½ miles. From Mount Batten Point to Laira is 1½ miles, fairly industrial but interesting and fairly free of commercial traffic. Favourite anchoring points would be Hooe Lake entrance or Clovelly Bay (mud): both are quite sheltered and very much more trouble-free than Tamar anchorages. There are very few shops (except for provisions) on the south bank. If you want chandlers and historical interest, land at Elphinstone.

The Yealm has the disadvantage of being crowded with yachts in its lower reaches, leaving no room for anchoring, although the harbourmaster is available to help find a mooring. The river entrance, tucked in a corner of Wembury Bay, does not disclose itself until the sand bar is reached. This is no hazard to dinghies, and can be seen in the clear water. The headlands give way to steeply wooded banks, and true winds are replaced by fickle draughts. The banks of this river are rocky for the first couple of miles, but upstream widen out into drying mudflats. Although West Country Rivers warns of prohibited anchoring because of shellfish industry, we spent two nights on this river without seeing any sign of oysters except at Steer Point. The river is only explorable within a couple of hours of high tide, and ends abruptly in rough pasture. A stream feeds the river but is not navigable because of a weir. Cofflete Creek has a few boats moored in its meandering channel, which disappears when the mud banks are covered. This sheltered waterway narrows quite soon until further progress is impeded by a large fallen tree.

Alternative camp sites can be found easily in this area, quite a good one being at Brixton on the main A379 five miles east of Plymouth.

(The “we”s in the text refer to a week’s cruise by the Colemans in 14ft dinghy)