The Blackwater is a river with wide vistas and interesting views. It is possible to launch and sail from West Mersea, but I have never been very keen on this as there are usually car parking difficulties, and the water is full of boats and those plastic boxes with high powered motors which are used to tow water skiers. When I was last there, an easier and less congested start could be made at Bradwell Marina. This end of the Blackwater is dominated by the towers of Bradwell power station; at night a distinct hum can be heard in its vicinity and the lights shine for a considerable distance. I have frequently anchored in Tollesbury Creek, which is sheltered and convenient to the sea, although tricky of access without an up-to-date chart. At high tide the creeks combine to give a vast expanse of water which dries out at low tide to narrow little creeks again, with birds making a tremendous din as they scratch for food in the mud. Old Hall Creek, a continuation of Tollesbury Creek, is worthy of exploration; I have always meant to spend the night dried out up this one, but somehow have ended up somewhere else. Nowadays there is a marina at Tollesbury for those who like the convenience a marina offers.

Thirslet Creek is a good place to stop in settled weather, and at low tide one can walk on Thirslet Spit, away from most of the crowds. Incidentally, it is worth noting that on sailing up the river it is normally quite easy to see the gap between Osea Island and The Stone. Do not steer for it, but look instead for the beacon marking Thirslet Spit. You will probably find that you are about to go on to the spit at about 4 knots — and if you had done it you would not have been the first, as local boat hirers will tell you. So beware!

On the south bank at this point is St. Lawrence Bay, where you can camp on the Beacon Hill Farm campsite and launch from the site’s own slipway. Up river from St. Lawrence Bay is The Stone, where a good hard beach encourages one to go ashore. And just at the top of the beach is an excellent inn. Launching facilities are available here, and there is a convenient car park, but on a summer week end it is very popular indeed, particularly with the motor-boating fraternity.

Farther up the river, between Osea Island and the south shore, wind against tide conditions can give rise to a very nasty patch of water which can be a little fearsome on first acquaintance. Even large boats take a dusting here on occasions. I have spent a night in Goldhanger Creek off Bulham Beach, but would advise careful positioning here as there are many old rotten piles which only show at less than half tide. I found Goldhanger Creek more pleasant than the more popular anchorage to the east of the pier on Osea Island, and the mud between here and Thirslet Spit is in general hard enough to walk on at low tide, as I once found when, accompanied by two timorous girls. I missed the creek on a falling tide and, in view of their apprehension, decided to step overboard and drag the dinghy to deeper water. The crew on that occasion immediately joined me in the water, and we made a success of the enterprise. They were amazed, as I am always amazed, at the difference between high and low tide to the estuary.

Lawling Creek is usually full of moored boats, but there are two sailing clubs and a boatyard which have water for about five hours on every tide. Steeple Creek, an offshoot of Lawling Creek, is very pleasant and sheltered, but make sure that the wind is blowing the scent of the sewage farm away if contemplating an overnight stay.

Beyond Northey Island lie Heybridge and Maldon, both delightful little places. Go to Maldon for supplies of any type; it is well worth exploring. It stands on a hill and is very picturesque, especially when approached from the sea. As you sail in you pass some beautiful old barges, and these add the final touch to what, in my opinion, is the most pleasant spot on this part of the coast.