Snow Goose — Wayfarer 1151

We arrived at Oban at 19.30 on Saturday after a 360 mile drive from Stoke-on-Trent. After one complete circular tour of the town we found a launching slip alongside the ferry pier at the end of Argyll Street. I went along to the harbourmaster’s cottage at the end of the quay to pay any dues necessary and was told that there was no charge for launching and that I could anchor anywhere I liked in almost an empty harbour. He advised me to anchor about a quarter of a mile south of the main harbour at the Brandy Stone, to avoid the swell which was caused by the Mull ferries. At 20.30 we had rigged Snow Goose and with everything stowed away, we launched for the first time into Scottish waters.

While Hazel held the boat alongside the slipway wall, with help from two local boys, I took the car and trailer to a car park and returned to find quite a crowd had congregated to see us set off. It was a beautiful summer evening with the sun still shining brightly but no wind, so we clamped on the Seagull and motored slowly down the harbour. We asked a chap who was just rowing ashore after an evening’s sail in a Dragon if he knew of a mooring we could use for the night. After we had been shown a spare mooring we picked it up and then rigged the tent. After a light supper we turned in at 23.15.

At 07.30 the following morning we woke up to find the sun pouring in through the end of the tent which is open to provide ventilation. Both of us had slept well, although Hazel had never slept on a boat before and I had just one night on board on Rudyard Lake to my credit, it wasn’t really a credit as I fell in the lake in the middle of the night but that is another story.

After stowing the sleeping gear in the forward locker and clearing the boat for breakfast, we found we had forgotten to buy any milk, so after pumping up the rubber dinghy, I rowed ashore to try to waylay the local milkman but found that he did not deliver on Sundays. I eventually bought some from a small shop and by 10.45 we were ready to sail.

Low tide was 12.50 and as we needed the flood tide to help us up the Sound of Mull, we stayed on the mooring until 11.45 and then with the wind light from the NW we set off. On a broad reach, we crept slowly up the coast of Kerrera with beautiful views of Oban away to starboard. We passed to the south of Maiden Isle which guards the entrance to Oban Bay and then we could see the Firth of Lorne stretching into the distance and on the port bow the mountains of Mull which was to be our destination. In very light winds we began to beat towards the Lismore lighthouse which we could see about five miles away. At 14.00 we passed between Lismore lighthouse and Lady Rock and we could plainly see Duart Castle. From the sea it is one of the most imposing small castles we have ever seen.

By now the wind had died away completely, so after a quick snack of sandwiches and a can of beer we started the Seagull at 15.00 hours. For the next hour we motored slowly up the Sound with a two knot tide to help us. From the chart the Sound of Mull appears to be littered with dangerous rocks etc., but in practice we found them to be all well buoyed.

At last the wind started to pipe up and by 16.00 hours we were sailing well, past Grey Isle and in a wind rising to force three to four against the tide. We had a wet beat for two hours until at 18.00 hours we were able to clear Green Island off Salen and broad reach into Salen Bay to pick up a mooring on the west side. During the day we had sailed approximately twenty three miles.

After rigging the tent, we cleaned ourselves up and I decided to treat Hazel to a meal ashore and so we rowed ashore in the rubber dinghy and walked two miles along a country road with wild flowers growing in profusion along the hedgerows, to the Glenforsa Hotel, a beautiful Norwegian style log cabin set on the edge of the forest, with views across the Sound. Not being used to Scottish licensing hours, we were too late for a proper meal but the owner fixed us up with a delicious onion soup and a plateful of sandwiches. After a few drinks we left at 22.00 and we were in bed at 23.00 while it was still light enough to read.

We were awake at 08.00 and after a huge breakfast of bacon, eggs and sausage, we rowed ashore after pumping up the ‘rubber duck’, as we had affectionately come to call it. We walked along to the village and bought some provisions and sent off our first postcards to family and friends.

Back on board at 12.00 we dropped the tent and stored the gear ready for sailing. Although it was calm in Salen Bay we could see white horses on the waves out in the Sound, so at 12.45 we set off with three rolls in the main and using the working jib. Fifteen minutes later we were glad we had reefed as the wind was force four to five from the N.N.W. Wind against tide produced a short steep sea and although we were making two mile long tacks across the Sound we were only making about half a mile in the right direction. I found the rubber duck was creating a terrific drag as we were towing it so it was hauled on board and deflated. If you have never tried handling an eight foot rubber dinghy in a Wayfarer cockpit in a force five wind, I don’t recommend it.

At 15.15 after a hard wet sail, we entered Tobermory harbour which must be one of the most beautiful harbours in Scotland. We dropped anchor about one hundred yards off the central pier in three fathoms and then after blowing up our rubber duck, we rowed ashore to stretch our legs. While ashore we noticed a large cruiser passing very close across the bows of Snow Goose and moments later she was adrift and floating across the harbour. The keel of the cruiser must have fouled our anchor warp and pulled out the anchor. I rushed to the rubber duck and rowed across the harbour and just reached Snow Goose before the duck, which had a slow leak, finally deflated. After bringing Snow Goose back to her anchorage, I set two anchors at the bows and went ashore to finish the shopping and sightseeing.

We had a meal ashore that evening at the MacDonald Arms and drinks in the lounge. We retired to bed at 23.00. We could not get used to the daylight at this time of night — by the way we recommend the MacDonald Arms for eating out, the food was different and so delicious.

We were awakened by a cuckoo at three o’clock in the morning of Tuesday. We did not sail but had a lazy day walking into the hills above Tobermory. On the way up we saw a golden eagle, only a young one but it is the first time we have seen one in the wild. From the top of the hills we could see Coll and Tiree to the NW and Loch Sunart to the east. It was very hot as well, 78°F in the shade. That evening we motored down to the southern end of Tobermory harbour, about ¾ mile. The motor was on the rubber duck and we hadn’t gone very far when it seemed to be folding in on us, we had visions of being tipped into the water which was swarming with jellyfish of all sizes. We walked around for a while in the evening sunlight admiring the views, watching boats sailing or motoring through the narrow point between Calve Isle and Clach Maraig. We went into the MacDonald Arms again for a drink and met the owner and crew of a 36ft MacWester which was anchored just astern of us, they had sailed from the Crinan Canal that day and were sailing round Coll and Tiree and back to Tobermory on the Wednesday.

After breakfast on the Wednesday about 09.00 we stripped the tent off Snow Goose and at 10.00 when all the gear had been stowed once again we waved goodbye to the crew of Polyphemus, the MacWester cruiser and ghosted out of harbour in a very light wind but by 10.30 the wind died and we started the Seagull and set course back down the Sound. At 11.30 the wind started to pick up and we were able to start sailing again. The wind had gone round to the north so we had a broad reach down the Sound and arrived at Craignure at 15.30. We anchored close in on the south side of the bay and Hazel started cooking while I rowed ashore for provisions and water. We spent the afternoon and evening walking the country lanes around Craignure and later had a meal and drink at the Craignure Inn. Other sailors, don’t be put off by the exterior of the inn, the food is excellent and so homely. We turned in at 23.00 but during the night the wind veered to NE and the boat started to roll in a quite heavy swell. At 03.00 hours I took to the rubber duck and rowed out a stern anchor to try to keep the bows into the swell but this was only partially successful and we spent an uncomfortable night as the wind rose to force 5. At 06.00 the tide had risen enough for us to move the boat into the lee of a stone pier about 200 yards away. We tied up alongside the pier at 07.00 hours and turned in again to sleep until 10.00.

After breakfast I went ashore to telephone the Glasgow weather centre for a forecast. The forecast given was wind 4-5 NE, visibility good, so we decided to sail for Oban.

We set off at 12.30 hours with the working jib and three rolls in the main. The sail back to Oban was hard and wet but the boat took it all in her stride and I never had a moment’s worry. Our course should have taken us between Lismore Island and Lady Rock but as we approached those, the Oban ferry came up astern. The ferry seemed to be coming straight for us so we decided to bear off and go to the south of Lady Rock. This was a mistake as we soon found out and we found ourselves in some bad overfalls, the waves seemed to be four foot high and four foot apart but we had enough wind to keep sailing and push our way through and in less than twenty minutes it was all over and we sailed close hauled for Oban, arriving at around 15.00 hours.

We picked up a mooring belonging to Mr. Robertson, the owner of a local sailing school who moved one of his own boats so that we could use the mooring. He refused any payment and told us to use the mooring for as long as we liked. This was typical of the kindness shown to us by everyone we met in Scotland and makes a pleasant change from the areas we usually sail in.

That night we met up with the crew of Polyphemus again and after a rather wild party in a local hotel, we staggered back on board at 12.00 hours. The following day was spent sightseeing around Oban and a little shopping and at 18.00 we hauled Snow Goose out of the water and set off for home.

Our main memories of the holiday were the hospitality of the people we met, the peace and solitude, unbelievable sunsets and weather and the slow pace of the life on Mull. We had intended to sail all the way round the island but it was too good to be rushed. Maybe next year.