On a sunny August Tuesday Nainrouge, our West Wight Potter, was towed northwards at a steady fifty miles an hour. The back of the car was filled by the outboard, three anchors, food for at least a week, sailing gear and lifejackets. Having had a previous disaster through overloading the boat when trailing, I was determined to keep the boat contents to a minimum until she was afloat.

Our plans were fluid. We had spent numerous weekends afloat, and had enjoyed day sailing holidays on the Scottish west coast, but this was the first time we had decided to live aboard for over a week. Where we went would be dictated by where we managed to launch and the weather and tides. Just beyond Inverary we again noticed the three launching ramps into Loch Fyne. If it was possible to leave the car and trailer somewhere nearby, we could explore the Kyles of Bute. Perhaps another time — we were early, and I had a fancy to sail to Mull.

I always wish that there was some clear authoritative guide to launching sites. Too frequently I have found information unreliable. Getting Afloat and the Highlands and Islands Development Board leaflet on Yachting and Boating mention a launching site on Loch Melfort. This same site appeared on the Boat Owner Water Map, so I felt fairly confident that I should be able to use it. As we approached Kilmelford, we slowed down and watched the milestones. This was the one: 17 miles to Oban and 2 to Kilmelford. There was a gate opposite and a grassy track led down to the shore. Fastened to the gate was a large notice in red paint — ‘Beware of the bull. Keep Out.’ A little way down the track a large bull was eyeing us curiously. It is possible to launch nearer to Mull, I thought, as we continued through Oban where the very busy holiday crowds persuaded us to go on. Several detours were taken to look at likely spots, but our progress northwards was maintained.

At Ferlochan on Loch Creran, we saw caravans at the loch side. Pulling into a convenient lay-by, we stopped to investigate. There was one part where it would be possible to run a trailer down onto the stony beach. The farmer said we were welcome to launch and leave our car and trailer at our own risk. He showed us the tap for fresh water, and said that we had chosen the right tide to get afloat. When he later made his tour of the site, we were floating a few yards from the shore. All gear had been loaded, mast and sails rigged, and the car and trailer parked inconspicuously. He wished us a good voyage in our “wee home.”

With the boom tent erected and well fed, we retired, only to be wakened at 0130 by the bumping of the rudder on the bottom. In bright moonlight and perfectly calm water, we rowed further out and re-anchored.

The Clyde Cruising Club Sailing Directions mention that the tide sets through the narrows at the entrance to Loch Creran at over 6 knots. As we would be sailing out at springs, it would be advisable to attempt our exit at slack water. The morning was spent sailing pleasantly in a light wind along the shores of the loch. At midday we headed past the buoy on Sgeir Caillich into the narrows. As the channel turned towards the Lynn of Lorn, it was obvious that there was still a considerable run out from Creran.

A roaring noise had been apparent for some time when Marian shouted that there was broken water ahead slightly to port. I went about and, running before the light wind, hoped that we could progress against the current. The run was too great so, keeping well away from the coast of Eriska Island, Nainrouge was again headed for the Lynn of Lorn. We sailed through swirling and turbulent water but even with the plate fully down we did not touch bottom. From the chart we could now identify Glas Eiln, Airds Point and Branra Rock Beacon. For over an hour we tacked against a light breeze towards Pladda Isle, before deciding to return to Loch Creran for the night. Passing with the tide through the narrows, we could see the line of rocks which had caused us worry a few hours previously. It was obvious that as long as the tide was with us and we kept well over towards the rocks off Airds Point, all would be well. A bay on the westerly side of Loch Creran provided us with a quiet anchorage for the night.

It rained during the night, and as the following day was showery the dinghy was inflated and a short walk taken ashore. This showed us another possible launching site from a track between two groups of caravans on the unclassified road along the western side of Loch Creran.

Friday the 13th was a good day for an early start through the narrows with the full flood. Apart from having so little wind we had to row into the channel, all went well. Once more in the Lynn of Lorn, the wind proved too light to carry us past Eiln Dubh, so as the tide turned we ran towards Appin. It had been our intention, in such circumstances, to keep close in to the north of Lismore, inside the many rocks and islets, but the rocks and shore looked so hazardous that we sailed on past Sheep Isle towards Shuna Isle. Several small sailing craft had come out from Appin and were sailing between the islands. One headed south west into the Lynn of Morvern and we followed.

The C.C.C. directions give two anchorages on the north west coast of Lismore. The northerly one seemed fairly tricky, as it was difficult to decide which rock was which. As we sailed closer, we saw that a yacht had already anchored in the given position, so we decided to continue to Port-na-Morlach. The wind died completely and the engine was started. On a perfect evening we entered a delightful anchorage and dropped the C.Q.R. in three fathoms of clear water. There was no building, road, person or manmade object, apart from a ruined lime kiln, in sight. The gentle lapping of the water on the rocks helped us to sleep soundly, and breakfast was rather late on Saturday.

By rigging a running line, we were able to go ashore without inflating the dinghy, and we spent a pleasant time exploring, swimming, and lazing in the sun.

At 0845 on Sunday we were running before a very light NE breeze down the Lynn of Morvern. Progress was slow across a barely undulating sea thick with small jellyfish. As early mists cleared, the sun burned and dazzled. It was midday before we were off Bernera Island, becalmed, but able to see Duart Castle and Craignure Bay shimmering over the glaring water. Two porpoises provided a little distraction until a slight breeze from the south carried us forward. By late afternoon we were close to Duart Point and headed for Lady Rock, passing between the beacon and Black’s Memorial Lighthouse.

Both tide and wind were now against us, and we gave up any hope of reaching Loch Spelve, but looked for the entrance to Loch Don. This was not easy to see, as the sun was setting and the small islands off the entrance are not the high rocks we expected, but low, flat islets and shoals. The wind seemed to be dying, but there was just enough to enable us to make the entrance and move with a now favourable tide into an almost circular pool where we anchored in 3½ fathoms. It was 1900 and our passage had taken 10½ hours.

A clear sky and windless conditions helped us to decide to go ashore and walk into Loch Don Head an Monday morning. We posted letters and collected a gallon of burn water. The very pleasant countryside was rather spoiled for us by the horse flies, one of which caused the back of my left hand to swell. Both of us were surprised to find how glad we were to return afloat at 1400. A reasonable breeze was now blowing from the SW. The tide would turn in two hours. If the wind continued, we could be back in Port-na-Morlach for supper. The temptation was too great, and we hastily deflated the dinghy and made sail. Out in the Firth the wind seemed much weaker. Progress towards Duart was very slow. When the tide turned we were able to pass Lady Rock and enter the Lynn of Morvern, but once again the wind died completely away. Off Bernera Island at 1905 I decided that we would have to motor, and at 2030 we anchored in what we fondly termed ‘our’ little bay.

Tuesday was spent sunbathing, lounging under the shade of the boom tent — which was arranged as an awning over half the cockpit — and climbing one of the small surrounding hills for a magnificent view of the Morvern mountains. On Wednesday at 0645 we rowed out from the anchorage, taking care not to disturb ‘the admiral’, a plumpish man in navy blue shorts, white knee socks and white Panama, who had anchored his large and very beautiful cruiser, complete with blue ensign, astern of us the previous evening. Once clear of the outlying rocks and islands, we raised sail and headed NE into a light breeze. Despite a favourable tide, progress was slow, and as we needed to be in Loch Creran before high water, I reluctantly started the engine. We followed the inside passage around the north of Lismore, and discovered that the ferry jetty extended far out towards the rocks off Port Appin. In complete calm we motored into Loch Creran and reached the caravan site by 1100. We unloaded everything onto the grass, and were amazed at the huge pile such a small boat could carry. The boat was on the trailer and the trailer winched up the beach and ready to go by 1300. A visit to the farmhouse to settle our account — the kindly farmer did not want to accept anything, but was finally persuaded to take my Scottish pound note — and we were away.

Our cruise had shown us that two people can live aboard a 14’ boat for over a week without having to go ashore. Our holiday had been enjoyable — where else can you watch sea urchins and starfish moving through forests of seaweed in a bay to yourself? — and cheap. Our only expense, other than petrol, was the one pound for the farmer. We could have used more wind, but even the occasional use of the outboard had consumed less than a gallon of petrol. There is a need for clear and accurate information on launching sites and car and trailer parks.