So these wild Vikings, having successfully attacked the coastal village, found that among their captives was the beautiful daughter of an Anglesey prince. The Viking leader had ambitions to found a colony on Anglesey, which was known as the ‘Granary of North Wales’, and he decided it would be both pleasant and sound politics to be married to his captive. But she refused: her heart belonged to another, a local lad (probably known as Dai the dinghy — stay with my story and you’ll see why.)

Angry at her refusal, the Viking chief ordered that she be taken down a narrow valley to a small cove on the coast and put into one of the caves where, bound hand and foot, she could await the rising tide. Some hours later the Viking leader and a few of his men returned to the cave to see if the young lady had changed her mind once her feet got wet. Splashing through the rising water into the cave and climbing over the storm-tossed rocks they beheld a young Welshman (guess who?) in the act of setting his lady love free.

The angry Vikings rushed forward with drawn swords, and would have cut brave Dai to pieces, but suddenly with a thunderous roar a huge rock fell from the roof and pinned their chief to the floor, killing him instantly. In the confusion the young Welsh couple made their escape out of the cave with the Vikings close behind. Nearby is an island: to be exact, an island only at high spring tide, cliff-edged, grass-covered and about 100 yards long, projecting out to sea.

On this island Dai and his sweetheart hurried to reach the far end where the Welshman had moored a small boat, but soon the lady was tiring, their pursuers were gaining and bound to catch them. Crack! With a tremendous roar the island split across into two separate parts, just where the leading Vikings were running. Several fell into the chasm, and the others were halted in frustration and fear while the young couple reached their dinghy and sailed away.

You don’t believe this story? Well, it’s perfectly true, and I can prove it. Go to Porth-y-fydlyn (Porth means cove), less than a mile south of Carmel Head in north-west Anglesey, and you’ll see for yourself the cave with the rock from roof to floor that killed the Viking, and outside is the island Ynys-y-fydlyn (Ynys means island) split into two parts.

How to get there? Well, you’ll go by boat of course! The only way to travel. A pleasant sail is from the friendly Holyhead Sailing Club. Good slipway, and always a spare launching trolley. Out to the end of the one-and-a-half mile breakwater, and then about four and a half miles NNE across Holyhead Bay. The tide is helpful here: it flows north along this stretch of coast 9 hours out of 12 because of a back eddy on the second half of the ebb. But it speeds up the closer you get to Carmel Head, so if you haven’t picked your time too well, if the wind is light and you don’t fully allow for the current, you can be swept past the entrance to the cove and into a wicked local race just off the point of Ynys-y-fydlyn (it’s happened to me, twice, which doesn’t say much for my seamanship). Porth-y-fydlyn is on the south side of the island, well sheltered, dries out about halfway with a pebble beach, and behind that is a grassy area which can take a tent or two. Nearest farm for fresh water and nearest road is about three-quarters of a mile.

Now, having got you there, why not cruise round the rest of my favourite sailing area? A complete circuit of the Anglesey coast would be at least 70 miles, say 100 miles cruising and exploring. I suggest you plan to sail with the flood tide as much as possible, then if you need to sail against a foul tide it will be the ebb and that’s easier. Choose a time around neaps when the tide races at the NW corner of Anglesey are more relaxed. I’ve never found a really detailed chart for this area, but the Ordnance Survey 1” — or better still the new 1:50000 series — is as good as a chart to an inshore dinghy sailer. Most helpful, if you can beg, borrow or steal a copy, is the North Wales and Anglesey Pilot by dinghy sailer Henry Glazebrook, to whom I’m happy to acknowledge my debt. Unfortunately his book is out of print, and I haven’t got a copy. (Perhaps a member has one he’d exchange for something out of my fairly extensive sailing library?)

So, leaving Porth-y-fydlyn at the end of the ebb, round Carmel Head, no dangers close inshore, but careful of the tide race between there and offshore Skerries. This northern coastline has many sheltered bays to explore, though there is no secure shelter from a northerly blow — choose the right weather. The beaches, however, are mainly accessible from roads and are thus popular with holiday makers. Three small rocky islands lie spread along this coast, West, Middle and East Mouse. I prefer the Welsh names, respectively Maen-y-Bugael (after the old story of the shepherd with a stone in his shoe which annoyed him so much that he threw the stone with a curse into the sea) then Ynys Badrig (after St. Patrick, who was said to have lived for a time nearby on Anglesey) and finally East Mouse by the small port of Amlwch, known logically enough as Ynys Amlwch.

Around the NE corner — Point Lynas — look out for the Mersey Pilot launch. With a white foaming wake much bigger than the launch, it fusses in and out, to and fro, from the pilot station on the east side of the point to ships briefly stopped just offshore. Now, as you sail south-east, on the horizon ahead are the hills of the Snowdon group and the coastline of North Wales stretching into the distance.

In a mile or two is a small low rocky island with a conical tower to make it more distinctive: Ynys Dulas. The half-mile sound is shallow — plenty of water for your centreboard, but shallow enough to cause short seas, especially wind against tide. At the head of Dulas Bay is the narrow entrance to the peaceful tidal estuary of Traeth Dulas.

More popular beaches are passed — then a short cut, if it’s above half-tide, can be made through the gap between the next island, Ynys Moelfre, and Anglesey. Moelfre is well known for its lifeboat station, which I believe is the only one to receive twice the highest award of the RNLI. The worst shipwreck locally was right on their doorstep, in 1859: the Royal Charter, homeward bound to Liverpool from the Australian goldfields. They say £50,000 in gold was never recovered. More important, neither were the lives of 465 passengers and crew.

If the prevailing SW wind is blowing as you cross Red Wharf Bay, watch out for gusts coming over the island along a valley from Malldraeth Bay on the other side of Anglesey. For the next few miles the coastline changes character with steep high cliffs and just a couple of small coves suitable for landing. Red Wharf Bay itself is, of course, a popular anchorage which can be visited above half-tide.

The next corner in the circuit, the SE, is Trwyn-du, with Puffin Island just offshore. The lighthouse here has a mournful ‘dong’ bell and a very clear warning not to pass inland of the lighthouse. I suppose someone must have tried. Tidal flow through the sound, between the lighthouse and the perch off Puffin Island, can be rapid, with standing waves rather high for a small dinghy. Alternatively, with your shallow draught, you can sail seaward around Puffin and over the sandbanks that lie to the SE of that noisy, seabird-cluttered island.

Entering the Menai Strait, the usual buoyage system will be seen. As far as Bangor Pier, the main channel is along the Anglesey shore. Head of navigation is Caernarfon at the other end of the Strait. Tidal flow along this the Strait requires some study, because the current can be strong enough to push a dinghy backwards. I’m very fond of the Menai Strait. It’s a sheltered area with less fetch to the waves, 18 miles long, lying SW to NE. Width varies from about 200 yards to over one mile. The tidal current flows strongly all the way through, from either end, or from both ends at once meeting usually near Bangor, or flowing out of both ends at the same time. It gets a bit complicated. (See Tidal Information at end of article).

The nine mile stretch from Puffin Island to Menai Bridge (Porthaewy) is an attractive and popular sailing area, with slipways at Beaumaris, at the Gazelle Hotel opposite Bangor Pier, and at Menai Bridge. But to me the area has the serious defects of overpopulation and the only extensive mudbanks on Anglesey, resulting in a shortage of suitable camping places. There is not a longer stretch of Anglesey coast without a campsite within reasonable distance of the water. And I don’t mean organised, fee-paying campsites. If there is a farmhouse in sight I’ll ask permission, and have never been refused. But usually I manage to find a spot out of sight of any habitation. In only one area, about half a mile in length in the Cymyran Strait, have I seen notices which I understand are quite common in the South of England — ‘No Landing. Private’. So I find no need to sleep on board, even if I could, preferring space to stretch my legs during the evening.

Two bridges cross the Strait at the narrowest point, Stephenson’s railway bridge, and Telford’s suspension bridge carrying the A5. Between these two bridges, for three-quarters of a mile, is the Swellies, an area noted for its fast tidal flow, rocks and shallows, whirlpools and back eddies. With the high, tree-covered slopes on either side, the wind is fluky, or disappears altogether just when you need it to give steerageway. But a small Shell tanker ploughs through on a regular run, leadswinging yachts motor through, and small dinghies like ours slip through usually without incident; but I did once misjudge the strength and speed of the current here and rammed a temporary pier side on at 4 to 5 knots, impaling my Mirror on scaffolding poles! But get your times right, stay about one to three boat lengths from the mainland, and you’ll be okay.

From the Swellies to Caernarfon is a charming and pleasant stretch where the Straits are at their most riverlike. Green meadows and woods slope down to the rocky shore, and the current can speed you safely along. There are sandbanks at low water between Port Dinorwic and the SW entrance to the Straits, but plenty of space left, mostly on the mainland side. There is a slipway at Port Dinorwic Sailing Club (which is to the south of the small harbour and marina) and another on the opposite shore at Moel-y-don. A half mile almost due north from the sailing club, on the Anglesey shore, is a favourite campsite of mine. An old quarry is flooded about half tide through two short narrow canal-like gaps in the bank. Small boats can be very safely moored in the quarry, or in either entrance. The northern one is best, and camp can be made on a grassy spot a few yards from the north side of the entrance.

Caernarfon, four miles on, is worth a visit. The castle is a prominent landmark, and it can be instructive to climb the highest tower with binoculars and view that part of the Strait. There is an enclosed harbour which dries out, but most boats seem to use the river entrance, passing the new swing bridge, and mooring alongside a car park under the south wall of the castle. The river dries out too. If there isn’t too much swell, I prefer to use a slipway on the outside of the south wall of the harbour entrance.

Another favourite spot of mine is across the sandbanks on the Anglesey shore about one and a half miles west of Caernarfon, near Tal-y-foel. There is a miniature harbour so small that it can’t be shown on the OS one inch map. It dries out an hour or two after high water. I’ve camped a couple of times on the grassy bank at the back of the harbour, with wonderful views out across the Straits to the lights of Caernarfon and the floodlit castle with the dark mass of mountains behind.

Port Dinorwic to Caernarfon is an excellent area from which to start an extended holiday cruise, for if on arrival the weather should be unsuitable for coastal work, usually some enjoyable sailing and exploring can be done in the more sheltered Straits until the wind moderates. If it’s blowing from the SW, you’ll want no more than a moderate wind to get out of that narrow entrance at Abermenai Point. At the end of the ebb is best, and your shallow draught and a straight line from the sandy shore of Abermenai to the lighthouse on Llanddwyn Island will at neap tides clear the sandbanks outside the entrance. This entrance should be avoided in any strength of onshore wind over force four, as surf gets up very quickly on the bar.

You simply must land at Llanddwyn. Only a few hundred yards wide and just over half a mile long, sticking out into the sea, it is not really an island, for a causeway connects if to the rest of Anglesey. Considering its charm, Llanddwyn is fairly quiet and peaceful, because the nearest public road is a mile away along the popular beach that fronts the large Forestry Commission Newborough Forest. Rocky cliffs on the west side and lower cliffs with sandy bays in between on the east side characterise its coast. On the east side there are also several half tide rocks offshore, so sail slowly and with care. There are delightful views over the sea to the Lleyn Peninsula. Llanddwyn is a bird sanctuary with wardens on duty, but there is all reasonable access with fresh water and even a telephone. I’ve never tried, but I doubt if they’ll allow camping. This is a beautiful spot, and historically interesting.

Next to Llanddwyn Island is Malldraeth Bay. Probably the largest estuary on Anglesey, it was a lot larger until the last century when an embankment was built to reduce its size. Those Viking and Irish raiders used to sail up Malldraeth right into the heart of Anglesey near Llangefni. Explore it now if it’s an hour or so before high water, then you can sail out again on the ebb.

Round the corner between the rocky headlands of Pen-y-parc and Dinas beach are some delightful quiet sandy coves — quiet because the nearest road is over a mile away. In a small boat these places belong to you. Around Rhosneigr there are the popular, easily accessible beaches and a lot of large offshore rocks to avoid. And so to Cymyran Bay and noisy low-flying aircraft from nearby RAF Valley airfield, but before you curse them, remember that the sea-rescue helicopters fly from here, and at least one DCA member has had cause to thank them. Their Met. Office is very helpful with local forecasts on sailing weather — phone 0407-2288, but office hours only.

In Cymyran Bay you have a choice of routes to Holyhead. The shortest and most sheltered way is north up the Cymyran Straits between Holy Island and the rest of Anglesey, through the Inland Sea and into Holyhead Bay. The other route is seaward to the west and north around Holy Island, but for fair and settled weather only.

Let’s look at the seaward coast first. All the way is excellent coastal scenery: high, impressive cliffs, caves like the inside of a church, coves with sandy or pebble beaches. Off the south-west corner of Holy Island are two large groups of rocks, the most seaward of which has a distinctive beacon tower. One can safely sail inshore of these Beacon Rocks, but it is best to sail offshore of others between the beacon and Rhoscolyn Head. If you should decide to sail direct to the next main headland, Penrhyn Mawr, about four miles across Penrhos Bay, look out for Maen Piscar, an offshore rock that dries at low water.

Many years ago a small coaster ran onto this rock in thick fog. Sliding off the rock it quickly sank, leaving the crew in the water with no idea in which direction they should swim. There was the captain and his dog Tyger, a man and a boy. Tyger, barking, set off in a particular direction, so they all followed. It’s about three-quarters of a mile to the shore, and they’d never have made it without more help from the dog. They took turns holding onto his collar while he swam. All were exhausted when they finally reached the cliffs where Tyger, his job well done, feebly licked his master’s hand and died. His stone on Rhoscolyn Head marks the spot.

Just over half a mile north from Rhoscolyn Head is another of my favourite places, Porth-y-Cromlech (there is a cromlech, a burial mound of the ancient Welsh, nearby). Now you have to sail close inshore to find this small natural dinghy harbour, because the entrance is only a boat length or so wide, turns to the right, and has a large rock outside the entrance. There is an outer and an inner area. The outer seems deep water at all times, and with the rocks all around it’s an excellent swimming pool. The inner area dries out about half-tide and has a small pebble beach opposite the very narrow gap that connects the two areas.

Several more bays and coves in the next few miles, sheltered mainly from the north and east, including, of course, popular Trearddur Bay where Nicholas Monsarrat used to sail a dinghy as a boy. I admit there is a village and a field or two in the way, but it’s worth noting that at Trearddur Bay, Holy Island is almost cut in two at high water, and the Inland Sea is very close. If ever I got stuck at Trearddur Bay, unable because of the weather to go north or south, well, the sailing club there would surely lend me a launching trolley?

From Penrhyn Mawr headland to Holyhead Bay is the most tricky part of this seaward route. Very few places to shelter, even for a dinghy, strong currents and back eddies behind each headland. There are usually tide races off all four headlands, Rhoscolyn to North Stack, but South and North Stack can be especially bad. Normally beat to stay close in to the rocks, but the cliffs, which are the highest in Anglesey, and the hills behind the cliffs can make the wind very variable. I had a rough passage last summer just under that magnificent South Stack lighthouse sailing north, so when I’d baled a few gallons out of my little Mirror and about a mile later reached the race off the North Stack, I was being careful and treating it with great respect. I sailed offshore from the rocks along the edge of the race looking for a gap. None was to be seen, but soon I chose a place to cross and so turned away from the tumbling water intending to turn again and cross at my desired place. Just then the offshore wind died and the current took me into the race stern first!

Now back to Cymyran Bay and Strait and a look at the Inland Sea route. Up to Four Mile Bridge it’s like a fully tidal river. The land is fairly low on either side and the strait is both narrow and deep, wide and shallow, with odd rocks and sandbanks. Avoid low water, sail above half tide, take your time, and remember that the deepest part of a river is usually the outer part of a curve. The first half mile of these straits I mentioned earlier. This is the ‘No Landing — Private’ area. But by the first large island going north, Ynys Las, camping is possible on the Holy Island shore. Ynys Las itself looks likely to have a level grassy part. At the south-east side of Four Mile Bridge there is convenient access to and from the water.

The Inland Sea, usually a quiet calm area, lies between Four Mile Bridge (really a road embankment) and the Stanley Embankment which carries the M5 road and the railway line into Holyhead. Tidal water flows in and out of the Inland Sea at each embankment through a low tunnel, so to pass through you have to lower your mast! There is plenty of space then for a dinghy, high or low water, but the flow can be vary fast, so slack water is the time to go through. You can go just a little earlier or later depending on whether or not you’re going with the change in flow direction, but land first and have a look. Coming out of these tunnels in a boat with the flow of the tidal water brings to mind the phrase ‘cork out of a bottle’.

Except for low water sandbanks in the first mile, sailing from the Stanley Embankment into Holyhead Bay is straightforward.

I hope I’ve not sounded too much like a pilot book. They can discourage me from going anywhere. Little Mischief and I have had a lot of fun and adventure on this coastline, and you’re welcome to share it.

Croeso i Mon!

TIDAL INFORMATION

High Water: HW Holyhead = Liverpool or Dover - 1 hour HW Amlwch to Trwyndu = Holyhead + 10 mins HW Menai Bridge = Holyhead + 30 mins HW Port Dinorwic = Holyhead - 20 mins

Inland Sea: Passage through tunnels: HW Slack about 30 mins after Holyhead, but get to your first tunnel early

North & South Stacks: Change in stream direction is HW & LW Holyhead less 10 mins Passage south to north: pass South Stack on first of flood Passage north to south: pass North Stack either ½ hour before HW or just after ½ ebb

MENAI STRAIT TIDAL STREAMS

Key: E = eastward W = westward S = slack SM = streams meet

Tide at Holyhead (hours before HW) Caernarfon Dinorwic Bridges Bangor Beaumaris Trwyn- du Meeting of streams 5 E E E E E W Penmon Point 4 E E E E E W Trecastell Point 3 E E E E SM W Beaumaris 2 E E E E W W Port Penrhyn 1 E E E SM W W Bangor Pool

Tide at Holyhead (hours after HW) Caernarfon Dinorwic Bridges Bangor Beaumaris Trwyn- du Streams separate 0 (HW) W W W W W E Penmon Point 1 W W W W W E Trecastell Point 2 W W W W W E Beaumaris 3 W W W W E E Gallows Point 4 W W W W E E Port Penrhyn 5 W W W E E E Bangor Pool 6 S S S E E E —