The Attractions of the Dee Estuary
People go sailing and dinghy cruising for a multitude of reasons, but even if the main interest is in the sailing and camping aspects, it is nice to be able to turn one’s attention to other local attractions when the day’s sailing is over.
Joan Abrams’ article on the Dee Estuary in the winter 1977 bulletin (No. 77) showed the fascination (and possibilities) of cruising there, and this article is by way of a ‘sequel’ to show something of what the estuary and surrounding areas have to offer by way of pastimes and interests.
BIRDS When one thinks of the Dee, one thinks almost automatically of birds, and migration and bird watching, so famous has that area become even to the layman. The estuary is vital to huge numbers of passing migrants that use the Dee to rest and feed and build up strength for the long journeys from Africa to the Arctic and back. One can see many, many different species, of course, some quite rare, and whilst this isn’t intended to be a catalogue or list of names, a few indications might just whet the appetites of those who would like to know more. For example, Knot and Dunlin abound, and one can see Ringed Plover, Sanderling, Godwit, as well as auks, terns and other sea birds. On occasions, following gales, petrels, Grey Phalaropes and skuas have been seen, blown off course. These are usually down towards the mouth of the estuary, at Point of Ayr or on Hilbre Island itself. Further up the estuary, particularly at high tides, there are often huge concentrations of birds on Burton Marshes. Official ‘count’ indicate that up to 40,000 Dunlin and the same number of Knot and about 20,000 Oystercatchers, to name but three species, can be seen. Geese too, although fewer than before, gather in flocks up to 4000 strong on the marshes off Gayton.
Some of these are winter visitors only, but the majority can be seen in the spring and autumn, which are often the best times for cruising too. In the summer, of course, there are all the usual British birds, and some not so usual, such as Stonechats, Snipe, Reed Bunting as well as Lapwing, Yellow Wagtails and so on. There are also the various sorts of gull and many duck too. With a pair of binoculars, a bird book and some patience, even a complete novice can chalk up quite an interesting ‘score’ during a weekend. 221 different species have been recorded at Hilbre, which is a fair target to aim for.
ORGANIC LIFE What makes the estuary so attractive to birds, of course, is the abundance of food, and the estuary mud is apparently twice as productive of organic life as the best farm land and fifty times more so than the open sea. There may be those who are interested in marine life, and for them there is good variety to dig for, such as the usual lugworm and ragworm, but also cockles (less than in days gone by, though) and things called Amphipods, and Peppery Furrow Shells, among many others. One of the smaller segmented worms, whose only name is a Latin one, has been counted at 450,000 per square metre, so there is more life squeezing up between your toes as you try to push off a mud bank than perhaps you realize!
WILDFOWLING Before leaving the subject of birds, a mention should be made of the very popular pastime of wildfowling. There is a local club to which one has to belong, which currently has 350 or so members, and which imposes very strict limitations in the interest of conservation.
MAMMALS Grey Seals must be the most interesting of the mammals in the estuary, and they can often be seen in quite large numbers on Hoyle Bank, just across from Hilbre. As many as 212 have been seen at one time, highest numbers occurring in the summer. Other sea mammals such as dolphins, porpoises and killer whales have been seen in the Dee, but such sightings must be rare. On the other hand, it is surprising how far onto the mud flats animals such as foxes and hedgehogs penetrate, both having been seen on Hilbre Island too. Water voles are common, as are shrews, both making good prey no doubt, for hawks and owls. Although not a mammal, the estuary forms the home of the Natterjack Toad, which is one of Britain’s rarest (and now protected) amphibians, and which can be recognised by the yellow stripe down its back and by its loud nocturnal croakings.
FISH The Dee is one of the most famous salmon rivers in the north-west, but, as might be expected, fishing for salmon is most strictly controlled indeed. Only four licences are issued annually, all of which until recently were held by one family in Flint. The method used is called drifted trammel netting, which is apparently unique to the Dee. Other fish caught in fair numbers are flounders, and there are also whiting, bass, mullet, sea trout, smelt and eels, and all are still fished commercially as well as by amateurs. Commercial boats go mostly from the Welsh shore, although there are a few on the Wirral side. Shrimping is still popular, and although boats no longer bring them as they used to, one can still buy fresh shrimps in Neston most days.
PLANTS One of the main reasons for the fairly fast silting up of the Dee estuary is that Spartina grass has got a foothold. It was introduced from America into Southampton Water at the beginning of the nineteenth century, and was later deliberately planted at Connah’s Quay in 1928 (yes, as late as that, apparently) and although it didn’t survive there, it later became established both at Point of Ayr and between Park Gate and Gayton. Efforts to control it have so far been unsuccessful. Other attractive plants are Sea Aster, and there are typical saltmarsh plants such as Sea Meadowgrass and Scurvy Grass, and no doubt many others for the expert or enthusiast to identify, such as the Southern March Orchid.
I think, perhaps, having dwelt for a while on some of the attractions that nature holds for us on the Dee, it is time to turn to some of the man-made interests, such as castles, ruins and pubs etc., and to mention how one can gain access to them from a boat in the estuary. Again, it is not intended to be by any means a comprehensive guide to the shoreline, but just an indication of the possibilities available, to give some purpose to a cruise (if one is needed!) or to fill in time if one is neaped or storm bound or something like that.
These items will form the basis of another brief article in a later Bulletin.