Monday May 15th. to Sunday May 21st. 1978

AIM OF CRUISE: To visit the Skerries off NW Anglesey. To explore the Northern coastline of Anglesey at least as far as Traeth Dulas on NE coast. The aim is detail, not distance.

SHIP AND CREW: Mirror 10' 10" No. 28738 modified for cruising with mainsail reefing, lifting centreboard, deeper rudder, larger skeg, strengthened floor, dry stowage compartments, etc. Has a few seasons’ experience of coastal cruising in North Wales waters with present captain. No additional crew.

TIDAL CONDITIONS: Starting mid neaps, ending halfway to spring tides.

MONDAY: HW 17.00 HRS. Wind NW 1 - 2 veering NE sunny, no rain, water cold.

15.00 hrs. Launched from Holyhead S.C. slipway after usual delays due to first launch of season. Round the long, breakwater, dodging the Irish ferry and N.N.E. with end of floodstream, passing the black Boliver buoy to tack in light wind up Church Bay.

18.30 hrs. Sailed into Porth-y-Fydlyn (Cove of the Lake of Faith) like I was coming home. This is a favourite spot of mine about 4 miles from Carmel Head. Quiet, peaceful and sheltered. (See Bulletin No. 74 page 8) Little Mischief moored badly. I'd attempted a new mooring, system evolved during winter. Found theory and practice rather different.

20.00 hrs. Tent pitched, had usual hot wash and shave. (too cold the mornings!) 21.30 hrs. Evening meal over and washed up, getting into bed with a wee dram from medicine chest. Distance sailed: 7 miles.

TUESDAY: LW 12.15 hrs. HW 18.15 hrs. Wind 1 - 2 southerly in morning, calm the rest of the day, sunny, no rain

06.30 hrs. Awake to hear shipping forecast, "SE 2 - 3, fog lifting. Looked outside, visibility 100 yds! I want to sail today to the Skerries. These are a small group of rocky islets with lighthouse 2 miles off the NW corner of Anglesey. Tidal stream rushing from Irish Sea into Liverpool bay and back, squeezes between the Skerries and Anglesey and over several rocky shoals between, causing overfalls and tide rips at strength of tide. About 3 knots at neaps. Time of change of direction of tidal stream not known exactly. Of three sources of reference, two give different times and the third doesn't mention it, but I think it's about 1 hour before local HW/LW

Special problem today is visibility. At 10.00 hrs. along the coast it's ¾ mile. Skerries invisible but the fog horn can be heard. Sea calm, wind light. No compass, but sun can be clearly seen, so I decide to go, expect Skerries to be sighted as Carmel Head disappears.

10.00 hrs. I push off and remove oars from stowage to row out of Fydlyn, find I have another problem and return to shore. No rowlocks! (I remember exactly where they are - in my garage 70 miles away). Decided I must have use of oars so after some thought I improvised thole pins. Lashed a steel tent peg at right angles to each oar on the forward side. Peg slips into rowlock socket. They work!

11.00 hrs. As I'm now late getting off, I expect early flood stream and wind to cause leeway to NE which could make me miss the islets, so set course to west for 30 minutes until Anglesey disappears in fog and then North with sun over my stern. No sign of Skerries but foghorn still blasting away. "Whee thump", "whee thump", each minute. Still concerned about offset, I kept the sound off my starboard bow until after an hour’s sailing suddenly realised that the sound and the sun were almost in line. I'd passed the islets on the seaward side and was already to the North of them! Set course straight for the horn and in a few minutes the fog shrouded rocks appeared. Visibility here is about 200 yds. After some difficulty I found the west passage into the aptly named Lagoon in the middle of the islets, with the white lighthouse and buildings high on the cliffs above.

12.15 hrs. Landed on a shingle beach where a party of canoeists were having a snack. Chatted, lunched and explored the islands while the canoeists set off into the fog and the strengthening flood stream on their return trip. Those lads take some beating. I found all the islands accessible at LW, mainly grass covered and with several suitable camping sites within 100 yards of the lighthouse. Elsewhere the seagulls were sitting tenants. Talked with a lighthouse keeper and was shown over the power-plant, fog, horn and lights. I've decided the fog isn't going to lift and if I camp overnight then "whee-thump" within I00 yards every minute will have me a nervous wreck by morning.

16.30 hrs. Set off for Anglesey near end of flood. Took a short cut southerly passage out of Lagoon into swirling disturbed waters in the lee of the west Platter rocks, an route for Henborth, a cove about 1½ miles East of Carmel Head. Found flat calm as Skerries disappeared in fog within 200 yards, so out oars and rowed. Soon had trouble with "thole-pins" bending but can't take time out to strengthen them.

I've assumed the sun at late afternoon in May will be SW so rowing to keep sun on starboard side giving me a SE course. Allowing for end of flood offset this should put me on North Anglesey coast, about 2 miles from Carmel Head in an hour or so. Then I'll row along coast against early ebb to Henborth.

17.00 hrs. Passed through another area of disturbed water. The East Platter Rocks? Just as well it’s near slack water.

17.30 hrs. Become concerned because the sun and the Skerries fog horn give an angle of about 45°. This seems to indicate that I'm East of the Skerries and still at least a mile offshore in a flood stream lasting longer than I'd expected.

18.30 hrs. Still rowing in flat calm. Visibility seems the same. The angle to sun and foghorn still about 45°. What happened to the ebb? Feeling rather lonely. I've begun making plans for sunset and nightfall. Thinking that while it was understandable to miss the Skerries from Anglesey, to miss Anglesey from the Skerries is ridiculous!

19.00 hrs. After 2½ hours I heard distant sounds and recognised them as aero engines revving up on the ground. Know I must be in Holyhead Bay, so put the sun over my stern and rowed with new energy. Within ten minutes I noticed over my shoulder a black buoy. The "Bolivar" I'd passed yesterday! So I'm about 2½ miles from the end of Holyhead breakwater and ½ mile from shore.

19.30 hrs. Landed in a small cove just south of Church Bay with a good camp site on low grassy cliff.

20.00 hrs. Now the fog has lifted! Except for the distant Skerries, still shrouded in fog, and the horn still sounding. But a lovely evening.

22.00 hrs. After usual wash, good meal and a short stroll, I'm in bed, tired but satisfied with a well deserved nightcap. Total 4 miles sailing plus 6 miles rowing.

NOTES! First error was no compass. I'd never before had a need for one, which is a stupid reason because I've never needed a lifejacket but always wear one. Second error was assuming sun at SW Since checked and sun already due West around 17.00 hours, so my direction was 45° out. I was rowing South about ½ mile to 1 mile offshore all the time.

WEDNESDAY: LW 13.30 hrs. HW 19.15 hrs. Sunny, no rain, wind variable 0-2 NE

After usual breakfast (fruit juice, muesli, oatcakes and marmalade with tea) I made new thole pins from two tent pegs each and resin paste.

11.30 hrs. Set off for Carmel Head again. No wind at first so rowed until a good breeze came up and with beginning of flood stream sailed past Fydlyn and got nearly round the headland when the wind died and I've ended up rowing once more. Sea condition good. Choppy in the wind, flat and swirling with the currents in the calm. A bad area in the wrong conditions.

14.00 hrs. Into Henborth, a rather dull cove, bigger than I like but seems quite sheltered. Landed, lunched, walked a mile to phone home. Saw the Cembyn Bay nature reserve from the landward side. Replenished water supply at a farm.

16.30 hrs. Sailed out in a light breeze, close along the rocky shore, through the landward channel behind Jarry Furlong's rocks, past Cembyn Bay and into Porth-y-Pistyll (cove of the waterfall).

17.30 hrs. Sailed all around and finally choose to moor in a cove so small that I've had to use fore and aft anchors. The area is dominated by the Wylfa Nuclear Power Station. No doubt necessary, but still a blot on the landscape. But have found myself simply ignoring it. Interesting tropical type garden by old mill. Distance sailed 5 miles, plus 3 miles rowing.

THURSDAY: HW 07.45 hrs. LW 14.30 hrs. HW 20.15 hrs. Sunny, no rain, wind 2-3 NE, water and wind very cold

My little cove became a problem in the morning when fresher onshore breeze made anchors shift. Had to wade in and move anchors three times before ready to go.

12.00 hrs. Off and tacking round Wylfa Head against late ebb and wind. Into Camaes Bay, which is a mile across and ½ mile deep with four small coves opening into the Bay.

13.00 hrs. Went ashore at Porth-y-Ogof (cove of the cave) by Lamb Island. Usual lunch of pate, cheese and jam on oatcakes with milk. Explored cliffs around and went up public observation tower (round and white) overlooking the Power Station. Found I'd sailed close to point where the Station takes 55 million gallons of sea water per hour for cooling. No doubt safe, but would like to have known.

15.00 hrs. Continued sailing round Camaes day, looking in at Porth y Wylfa then on to North Llanbadrig (Church of St. Patrick).

15.30 hrs. Landed here at head of cove on sand, though beach mainly rocks and shingle. Had a snack, explored and decided though early to stay and camp behind the White Lady - a prominent rock - on a. grassy patch just above HW. Warm and pleasant spot, sheltered by the grassy cliffs from the cold NE wind. Found interesting old tunnels cut into the rock. Walked in evening, to St. Patrick’s Church and graveyard overlooking the sea. Sailed 2½ miles.

FRIDAY: HW 08.45 hrs. LW 15.30 HW 21.15, Wind NE - E. 3-4, sunny, no rain

The ebb stream is now mid morning to mid afternoon which combined with NE wind makes for a problem unless I turn and go back West. Walked into Camaes Bay village late morning to report home and obtain further supplies of elastoplast, toilet paper and sunburn cream. On a previous trip I landed on the beach here by the small drying harbour. A popular holiday beach. I've decided that with wind and tide against me and a lot of white water to be seen outside the Bay, I simply won't be able to carry on sailing East, so changed plans and decided to sail back towards Holyhead. There are other areas on that side I want to explore further.

13.15 hrs. With reefed mainsail set off to round Wylfa Head again but only reached the chord of the day when I found sea conditions too bad even when running. Large irregular lumpy breaking waves indicated even worse off the headlands. So ran for shelter into Porth y Ogof again. Decision confirmed when I found several pints of water more than there should have been in the cockpit. A leak in bow buoyancy tank, not too bad but needs attention. Only noticed because I'd accidentally dislodged a bung while stowing gear this morning. As Porth y Ogof is rather exposed to the cold NE wind I've now sailed round the Bay again back to Porth Llanbadrig.

15.00 hrs. Found leak in bow transom above the W.L. Remembered Little Mischief lived up to her name by ramming a rock on Wednesday morning while I was taking a photograph of her with all sails up. Two passing holiday-makers helped me carry her up the beach to the last HW mark. There she dried her damaged ply in the sun while I pitched camp again in the same spot. With time and plenty of fresh water available from nearby spring, I've almost had a bath, even shampooed my hair. Now repaired the leak with useful Isopan paste. Walked the headland after evening meal. Sailed 2½ miles. (Hope I do better tomorrow).

SATURDAY: HW 09.30 hrs. LW 16.30. Sunny, no rain, wind NE Force l until 10.00 hrs. then 0 - 1 rest of day.

09.15 hrs. Floated off just before HW and sailed slowly out of Bay. Interested to note small inaccuracy of local Pilot. Determined to round Point Lynas (the NE corner of Anglesey) today but ebb stream against me until 16.30 hrs. and wind useless.

10.15 hrs. Still off Llanbadrig Head and getting nowhere. So up rudder, centreboard and boom on topping lift. Out oars and rowed. Sun hot, ebb getting stronger until about 13.00 hrs. Found if I rowed close to cliffs, in a small bay or even a slight indentation, no current. In deeper bays a light counter current going my way. For sailing purposes it’s been an instructive exercise. But off each headland, ebb current is rather difficult. Strong, and disturbed flow.

11.00 hrs. After a mile or so, I landed briefly at tranquil little cove Porth Llanlleiana to explore. A ruined old factory at head of cove, but somehow it blends with surroundings. Open to NW quiet and peaceful. Good camp spot.

11.30 hrs. Just ½ mile offshore is the rocky islet Middle Mouse and about 300 yards from Porth Llanlleiana is the most Northerly part of Anglesey (and Wales), the high bold headland of Dinas Gynfor.

The tidal stream runs very strongly between the islet and the headland and nearly made me give up and turn back. Tried three times to row past the rocky point. Inshore, offshore and well offshore. Just lost ground and ended up back at Porth Llanlleiana 40 minutes later. The current was pouring past the point like a river in flood and getting stronger all the time. Rested on the oars, had some water and glucose tablets, decided to try once more really close in to rocks just an oar’s length away. Had a hell of a fight but finally made it. Tent peg thole pins and all!

13.00 hrs. Another mile and into Porth Wen for lunch. Large but pleasant cove with high cliffs and landing on shingle beach on SW side by old abandoned brickworks. (Peculiar places they choose around here for industry!) Brickworks found to have small drying harbour, rather cluttered with old ironwork, but giving shelter from the North, useful knowledge on this coastline.

14.00 hrs. Rowed around Porth Wen on the way out then along rocky cliffs into Bull Bay which is a holiday area in quiet way. Past the entrance to the improved Amlwch harbour, then a steady pull for another 1½ miles to reach Porth Eilian.

15.15 hrs. Went ashore here, snacked and rested waiting for slack water off Point Lynas which sticks a ¼ mile out into the tidal stream. That could have been another Dinas Gynfor. Not attracted by Porth Cilian. Sheltered but not as quiet as I like.

16.00 hrs. Left the cove, still rowing, and rounded the point under the lighthouse at 16.15 with some difficulty because the ebb was still running strongly Now on the NE coast and passing, Freshwater Bay. Saw a small and possibly useful cove on northern side of Bay, ½ mile from Point Lynas with shingle beach open to SE. Not mentioned in local Pilot and I didn't notice it last time along here, but then weather conditions were rather different.

16.45 hrs. Found flood stream had started so I've put. away oars thankfully and sailing once more. Wind now on the beam at less than 1, but with current helping making reasonable progress.

17.30 hrs. Arrived in Dulas Bay to find wide stretch of sand preventing access into estuary of Trauth Dulas. Went ashore to ask use of phone at lovely white house and made arrangements for Little Mischief and I to be collected on Sunday. Then sailed slowly up and down out entrance to the shallow Afon Goch (Red River) waiting for rising tide.

19.00 hrs. Could see it would be another hour before water high enough to get in, so anchored in flat calm, made my usual 3 course evening meal, enjoyed a relaxed coffee and washed up.

20.00 hrs. Seemed plenty of water but once through the narrow entrance I found the wide expanse of sand which forms Traeth Dulas (about ¾ mile x ¼ mile) was not yet covered by the tide at 4 hours after LW outside.

However, I've rowed up river with flood and set up camp on grassy bank at NE end. Bringing boat closer in later as tide rises. A quiet undisturbed area, probably because only suitable entrance and exit 1 - 2 hours either side of HW inside the estuary, which by my observation is 1 hour after HW Holyhead. Thinking back on the day's experience have come to the conclusion that I have much underrated rowing as a secondary method of propulsion. 9 miles rowing, 3 miles sailing.

SUNDAY: HW 11.00 hrs. Wind 2 NE, sunny, still no rain.

07.30 hrs. Awoke late.

10.30 hrs. Packed and floated off. Enjoyed a brisk sail up and down and across the estuary finishing soon after HW at SW end where a narrow road comes down to the waters edge. (Noted a better launch/recovery point at road end on NW shore.) Stripped Little Mischief, prepared for roof rack, lunched and then walked to main road to sit in the sun and await my wife with car due at 14.00 hours. End of another enjoyable satisfying cruise.

Total distance 44 miles.

15.30 hrs. Still waiting, but that's another story!