DCA Cruise Reports Archive

Yorkshire Canals by Inflatable Canoe

We dropped the canoe into the canal below Brighouse basin; it seemed a long way down to it then, and Peggy, who had kindly driven the car from Halifax, didn't see how I could get aboard. However, after reaching aboard all the stores, it was possible to lower myself into the inflatable without upsetting it. The heavy plywood sheet fastened under the canoe makes it very stable, though its original purpose had been to protect against all the old bicycles, sewing-machines, etc. thrown into the water.

Then it was up with the mast in its tabernacle, and away east with a fair wind to sail a river section of the Calder and Hebble Navigation. Approaching Anchor Pit flood lock, as at various places on the Calder and Hobble, one must be careful not to follow the river to the unfenced weir adjacent. Fortunately this flood look was open right through. The two Kirklees locks were successfully bypassed by hauling out and re-launching. The three ex-shopping-trolley wheels fitted under the plywood make it easier to push or pull when ashore. Twin bilge keels had been constructed at the forward pair of wheels. However, these (and the leeboards) proved to be of almost no use, as I will explain. In most canals down between banks and often having banks lined with bushes, trees, buildings and hills, the effective wind is only of two directions - dead astern or dead ahead.

The first real difficulty occurred after wheeling the craft around Cooper Bridge lock. The launching steps into the following river section were closed, roped off as unsafe.

I managed to let the canoe on its long rope down a steep bank into the river, but the drop was too unsafe to follow it down. I attempted to haul the loaded canoe downstream, hoping to come to a spot suitable for getting aboard. But no such luck; the rope became hopelessly tangled in bushes, and there I was stuck, unable to go forward or back. Here was experienced the most unexpected kindness and help. A small cabin cruiser was passing, and upon realising my plight it was turned and backed towards the bank. The bottom was too shallow for the cruiser to come near the canoe. So a man dived overboard, swam to the canoe, and towed it alongside his craft to a spot where I could board it a foot below the towpath.

After Battye Ford lock, in another river section, it was time to plan setting up camp for the night. High up on the right bank is an old towpath. This is no longer in use since all that remains of the changeover bridge further downstream is the middle pylon. The bank here is fairly clear of bushes, and not too steep. So after stops for breathing spells the loaded canoe was hauled up on the wide path. Tent erected and meal prepared and eaten, the water supply was down to a few cupfuls. There is insufficient room aboard to take more than bare essentials: two great plastic bags stand up, one before and one abaft the mast. The mainsail boom just clears the after bag, but the foresheet tends to catch on the forward one. There is just room for me to squeeze in. Tupperware boxes are bolted on, one on the foredeck and one on the afterdeck. Primus stove, bottle of paraffin, air-pump, small Hong Kong radio, "housewife", dry clothing, rainwear, a few tools and screws are all carried.

Early morning found a man walking across the field beyond the dry stone wall. Seeing my tent he changed course and came near. After the usual pleasantries, I enquired about getting water. He owns the field, one of several in which he pastures the ponies of his riding school. In the far corner I was shown a tiny spring bubbling up into a basin just big enough to immerse my two water bottles. I was invited to visit his bungalow across the river further down, where the canoe could be pulled out at a landing-stage into another of his fields.

Well, after breaking camp and the ticklish job of getting everything down to the water again, the wind had died and I had to paddle across the River Calder. A search under the trees revealed a concrete quay, but this turned out to belong to a neighbour of his. Anyway, later he came down and we both searched the bank further down, but any one-time landing stage could not be located. Nothing daunted, he hauled the craft with my help up the muddy bank into the field. Becoming better acquainted, I was invited to set up the tent on their lawn. This also gave me the opportunity of buying supplies at the local shop in Mirfield. I lasted out a spell of rain in my tent and in their bungalow; exchanged addresses, I phoned ray wife, then away once more.

A succession of locks and flood locks with their adjacent unfenced weirs, continued through Dewsbury and Horbury. After one lock it was very difficult to re-launch, but someone kindly gave me a hand to lower onto a narrow concrete shelf beside the river section.

Then through Wakefield to Fall Ing lock, after which one is in the Aire and Calder Canal. Here the canoe was brought ashore and left in the kind care of some holidaymakers with a narrow boat, giving me the opportunity to spend the night at home in Halifax. The narrow boat would be leaving early in the morning, so I had to get the earliest bus back to Fall Ing. Then around the lock and into the River Calder, still with a fair wind. From here to Leeds is commercial waterway, the locks being remote control operated by lock-keepers, whilst entry is controlled by lights green or red. The long straight Broad Reach passed through Ramsden's swing bridge. Here, after inspecting my canal licence on the prow, the keeper swung the bridge open just as though I might have been one of the giant oil tankers gong down to Hull and Immingham. I could have gone under the bridge, as later on the Leeds and Liverpool canal, but no doubt that possibility had not occurred to the keeper, as he was not used to canoes. The tabernacle is offset, so that the mast, when down, lies at an angle, avoiding the kitbag.

Then the only unpleasant episode of the holiday occurred, at Birdwood Lock, in a very beautiful section of the canal. Whilst I was wheeling my craft around ready to launch below the lock, out came the keeper to inform me that I am not allowed to take a canoe on this commercial waterway and that anyway the lock had closed at 4.00 pm. He would not listen to reason; my licence meant nothing to him: I must remove the craft from the canal. In his view, he was only doing the right thing by stopping someone from going into danger. Some time earlier, a couple of youngsters with a canoe had been turned away.

Feeling very sad at the early end to the holiday, I wheeled the canoe back along the towpath out of sight of the lock cottage, put up the tent and had a meal.

I decided to go back and face the lock-keeper once again. It emerged that he had no power to stop me, but that British Waterways could refuse me permission to continue and could order the craft removed. He first felt it his duty to do everything in his power to keep me out of trouble. By this time, he was coming to realise that I am the type capable of taking care of myself. At last, he asked what I intended to do now: and I replied that perhaps he would rather not have an answer to that question. Finally, we shook hands and I walked back for a night in the tent.

Early in the morning, after quick meal and loading up, I wheeled round the lock and launched before the cottage came to life. When I arrived at Kings Road Lock, the lock-keeper was more helpful. He phoned Castleford, and obtained permission for me to proceed via Castleford to Leeds.

From here on to Leeds, I got the V.I.P. treatment, passed on from ‘phone to ‘phone from one lock to the next. From travelling east, at Castleford the route turns north then northwest into the Aire and Calder Main Line so the wind became a headwind, making it hard work with the (home made) double-bladed paddle.

Efforts of paddling and shortage of water called for a stop by a riverside pub at Allerton Bywater, and a difficult scramble up the bank allowed a bit of shopping. Arrived at Kippex Lock, I found the lock-keeper concerned at my late arrival. Lemonroyd, Woodlesford and Fishpond Locks all had friendly and helpful keepers. At one lock, the children were sent to give assistance in getting around the lock. The wind being now fair but light, I had the peculiar experience of sailing forward in the water whilst actually travelling backwards relative to the bank alongside. The explanation was soon apparent: a giant oil tanker coming up astern was pushing the bulk of the water forward so that the river had to resume its ambient level by actually flowing backwards on both sides of the tanker.

The next experience with one of these great craft was a bit disconcerting. Approaching Knostrop Fall Lock, another such tanker had just cleared the lock, and as it came towards me the engine must have been turned onto full power in hope of saving a few seconds. The screw just churned up the whole of the canal into a maelstrom, which did not subside until minutes after the craft had passed. My canoe was thrown about every which way by water something like two tide races running at a 90 degree angle to each other. This could have been very upsetting to a small cabin cruiser, with crockery crashing to the bottom boards and personnel badly thrown about, the canoe though, was uncomfortable but safe enough.

Just before Knostrop flood lock is a British Waterways commercial yard. A yard official on the quay seemed aghast at my temerity in canoeing that important waterway. He didn't know when the next tanker might be coming, and he told me not to climb up on the lock side or "the dog will have you". This lock is curved, so one could not see an approaching craft.

Now into urban Leeds, I was stopped by a policeman on the towpath opposite. I paddled over to him, and with some difficulty he inspected my canal licence. To his question, "What would you do if you met a big tanker?" I replied, "What I did with the last two - keep out of their way." The policeman's interest in me was no doubt due to that B.W.B. official at the Knostrop Yard getting enquiries started. Anyway, the arm of the law seemed quite satisfied with my control of the situation.

Camped the night at Leeds Lock, where I obtained milk and a tin of beans from the keeper's friendly wife, and was able to shop in Leeds next day. River Lock presented the most difficult haul-out from the river, the steps having a railed right-angle turn at the top. I was here whilst a workshop under the railway arch by Leeds Station caught fire, and stranded people had to cross the lock gates to get away.

I spent the night in the tent just past Office Lock, now in the Leeds and Liverpool canal. Then on through a series of locks to Rodley where the canoe was left in the kind care of our friends Margaret and Colin at Rodley Boat Services.