In February, 1933, I cruised for about 70 miles in 7 days of sailing and rowing through the Islas Encantadas in Baja. As a novice I learned many lessons, and will try to describe them to you here. First, a summary of the trip.

After several months of pondering such a trip, I met Douglas Knapp in January at the San Francisco Boat Show, and learned about the DCA. We decided to meet in San Felipe and cruise together for the first part of his trip south to La Paz in a 22’ catamaran. I hurriedly outfitted for the trip and got a break in the constant winter rains, and set out from L.A. arriving in San Felipe 7½ hours later, where I met up with Douglas. Since the 40 sea miles to Puertecitos are dull, I decided to trailer on down to Puertecitos and meet him in the islands. I also have an 80 year old cousin, Alice, living there where I could stay.

February 15th I set sail at 7.00 am with the usual early morning light offshore breeze, then picked up a little northerly breeze for an easy run to Nacho’s Camp (see map). The next day I pushed off at 5.00 am, just in time to avoid falling tides exposing the lower rocky beach, and caught the offshore breeze to El Muerto for breakfast. I was then becalmed and rowed all day through the islands to Isla San Luis and found a pretty black sand beach on the NW side. The next day blew a 20-25 knot northerly that brought Douglas in from Puertecitos on a fast broad reach. I found him in the southeast anchorage looking for protection. We had a few beers and I bidded him “buena suerta” for his trip south.

Again on the return trip through the islands I was becalmed and rowed all morning, then picked up a little breeze and came in at high tide on a nice sand beach south of Black Mountain. With just 10 miles to reach Puertecitos the next day, I thought I had it made. But then the trouble began. I waited for the tide to turn about 11 am and sailed out around the lee of Black Mountain and beat into a vicious chop from a rising northerly against the incoming tide. No way. A 14’ dory couldn’t make much headway in that stuff, and I began taking on water. With about 4” of water in the boat I finally faced it and turned back for a rip-roaring run back to the beach, only to find it all rocks at low tide. I prayed for the anchor to hold, and it did. I waited anchored in the chop for the incoming tide, and beached on the sand. The next day I tried again to round Black Mountain, this time at 7 am, trying to beat the northerly which seemed to come up later in the morning. But it was blowing even worse and I had learned my lesson, so I ran back and beached on the sand before the tide fell to the rocks.

I was now a day late and felt I’d better get word back to Alice at Puertecitos that I was OK, so I set off walking up the dirt road. After about 8 miles I got a ride the rest of the way with a dirt biker — a hair-raising ride, but I felt safer than out beating into that chop off Black Mountain. The next day was calm again and I got a ride with a local in his outboard back to the dory. I had to wait until 5 pm for the tide to come up so I could float out over the rocks. I rowed/sailed back to Puertecitos in the moonlight by 9 pm that night.

I thought for sure that was the end of my troubles, but no. On the way home first I broke a trailer spring on the dirt road, then, after replacing it in San Felipe, the trailer broke apart on the paved road just outside Mexicali. The boat somehow came through OK. With the help of two Mexicans we put the boat up on the roof of my car and I gave them what was left of the trailer. I got back to L.A. at 3 am.

It was all in all a fantastic trip. And mostly because of the troubles that arose, I learned a great deal indeed.

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRIP

February weather was perfect — air about 75°, water about 60°; nights a little cool, with a few damp. Wildflowers were in profuse bloom due to over 10” of rain (normal is less than an inch), and desert landscapes and multi-coloured rock formations were spectacular. Sea life was abundant. I saw schools of porpoise and seals with their babies on Coloradito, and thousands of birds — especially pelicans. The solitude and closeness to the forces of nature you feel alone in a small boat are special (and fear in rough weather). What a relief to be away from the telephone, TV, newspapers and clatter of the city. Life was healthy. I slept well (except for the first few nights’ wake-ups to check on the boat), ate well, got a good tan, and the rowing was great exercise. I felt my mind and senses sharpen in managing the boat in the changeable tides and weather. Meeting the people of Puertecitos (mostly retired Americans) was also interesting. They were mostly friendly, talkative and helpful. I unfortunately did not have much contact with the Mexicans.

THE LESSONS

1. Winds and Seas

Weather in the gulf is very unpredictable and changeable. Even the Mexicans won’t predict tomorrow’s weather. A blow can come up in an hour, so always have your options in mind where to run for cover, or to beach, remembering that most beaches are rocky at mid to low tide. Weather also goes to extremes — many days were too windy to sail, and others calm and I had to row all day. Have a flexible timetable and be able to wait out 2-3 days if you have to. Pushing to get back to work etc. could be disastrous. I could not sail into the chop going north, but went downwind south OK. But consider that the locals said that weather was lightweight compared to the 50 knot northerlies, or the even worse westerlies that can blow down the canyons. They called the area just south of Black Mountain the ‘Wind Tunnel’ because of this.

2. Tides

They can be up to 20’. You live by them! Plan carefully when to beach — usually mid to high tide to get on the sand. You must launch before the outgoing tide exposes the rocks unless you can carry the boat over the rocks, which is doubtful. I thought of anchoring off to be able to leave at low tide going north, which might be OK if you trust your anchor. Going south is no problem as you leave at high tide to catch the current.

Address for Tide Calendar:

TIDE CALENDAR $6.50 + 4% Sales Tax Attn. Margaret I Good Printing-Reproductions Reduced size booklet The University of Arizona $2.00 + Tax Tucson AR 85721

3. Currents

Weren’t a big problem. They seemed to be 1-2 knots, but I hear they can be much more in places. I usually travelled with them, but was able to make headway against them in the islands where I expected stronger currents.

4. Be Organized and Light

I overpacked. I used one waterproof bag and one canvas bag — both too big. Smaller waterproof bags would be better, with everything well organised in smaller plastic bags inside. It was a real hassle digging around into the bags looking for things. Be able to make and break camp, and load the boat quickly, and be off when you have to (such as early morning). This is a lot like backpacking.

5. Be Self-sufficient

Plan carefully what you might need. I saw very few people out there — two other sailboats, three cabin cruisers and one Mexican fishing boat in 7 days. There were a few campers and bikers on the road, and a few camps along the beach with water and some stores (shown on map). High priorities are spare parts and repairs for your boat. Fortunately I had no major breakdowns. You must be in good health — preferably having done a lot of recent sailing and rowing to toughen up.

6. The Right Boat

My 14’ wooden dory did well, except against the chop. I can row all day at about 2 knots, and she sails fair. I often sailed and rowed together in light airs. A lighter boat might be better for easier dragging on the beach, or faster rowing. I must try inflatable rollers on the beach, especially for going uphill to get above the high tide line.

7. Trailer

100 miles of dirt road took its toll on my trailer and it broke up on the highway. The boat now goes on the roof, a better place for it to begin with. If you do trailer, make sure it is beefy, and drive slowly on the dirt road.

Note: A new road was built about a year ago from San Felipe to Puertecitos that cuts driving time in half, to 1½ hours without a trailer. It is paved to the airport, then goes along the beach.

8. Other Tips

— Driftwood adequate on most beaches, but one burner stove good idea.

— Take extra pair of shoes to keep wet for walking on rocks.

— Plenty of sunscreen. Sun is intense and you’re in it all day.

— Desert air dries up the skin. Handcream a good idea.

— Fold-up anchor worked great, but dove twice to free it from rocks.

— Few bugs, but did get some bites. Locals said from little bugs you can’t see (the ‘Cantsies’).

— Fishing. I trolled lures and caught nothing. Bottom fishing is good with jig and bait. I heard that commercial net fishing has hurt, but this is still a famous sport fishing area.

— Try sulphur baths at Puertecitos — a great treat for the body after your cruise — low tide best when it’s warmed up.

— Guides. None are oriented to dinghy cruising showing beaches, but try:

Sea of Cortez Guide by Dix Brow 1982

Baja California Cruising Notes by Vern Jones 1974

Auto Club Map and Highway Guides