- A Six Week Cruise in a Roamer

Boat Specifications: Length/Width: 14’ x 5’ 10” Construction: Plywood, Double Chine Design: 'Roamer' - half-decked cruising dinghy PURPOSE BUILT BY D C McCLELLAN Minimum Freeboard: 1’ 7” Rig: 7/8th. Bermudan Sail Area: 96 sq. ft. (115 sq. ft. with Genoa) Motive Power: 9’ Oars; 2 HP 'Seagull' Internal Ballast: 80 lb. Sailing Weight: 660 lb. (ex. cruising gear) Gear Stowage - Dry: Fore cuddy, stern locker, stern buoyancy tanks (for clothing, bedding, stove, gas, and charts) - Wet: Under floorboards and side benches (mostly food - tinned & in plastic containers, fenders, anchors)

We set off from England on Thursday, 18th July, 1985, for a six week cruise of Holland. With the car loaded to capacity for the trip we left, 'Tai Tai' following at our heels, perched comfortably on her trailer. For a while she stayed snug under the protection of her home-made plastic cover, but wind forces, aided by a good hot pre-holiday machine wash to remove muck, soon tore at the cover's seams and left the travellers bundling up flogging masses of material less than two hours from departure, and in pouring English rain!

We had decided, after much costing and deliberation, to opt for a short two-hour crossing from Ramsgate to Dunkirk (Sally Line, by far the cheapest and very pleasant) and drive to reach our launching site of Veere, Zeeland. A car full of gear and a menacing looking boat overpowered the weary Customs official and we gleefully set off on the open roads through France, Belgium and onwards towards Holland, with a brief snooze in some deserted Belgian lay-by. It proved a boon to be travelling through the night as, unaccustomed as we were to the roads and having no map of France/Belgium, we were unimpeded by other local traffic who knew where they wanted to go!

We took another ferry ride from Breskens across the Westershelde to Vlissingen. On that brief crossing a Dutch sailing enthusiast enquired, "Where can I buy such a ship?" At Veere we had arranged to spend our first four days in the company of David's parents and found them, surprised by our early arrival, preparing to take breakfast at Veere's waterside hotel.......so we joined them before searching for a launching site and storage for both car and trailer for the six weeks.

The task was easy and by early evening we had launched 'Tai Tai', arranged lock-up for trailer, and car parking at very reasonable prices (Oosterwatering Jachthaven - total of £15 for six weeks), and found space in Veere's harbour for our first night afloat. Of course it was raining, but we had expected a little during the time we would be on holiday.

In her enthusiasm to be off, the crew jumped backwards onto the trailer lights and scored an early black mark on the holiday's list of breakages. Within an hour though, the skipper proved equally excited by absentmindedly sitting on the night light while trying to dress for dinner (i.e. tying his laces in cramped under canvas style)

The tent, which fits over the dinghy from just beyond the mast step to the transom, is home made of 4 oz. canvas with Velcro fastening stern and aft and elastic loops to plastic hooks fitted along the gunwales. Underneath it is light and roomy (the oars holding out the sides) and gives reasonable headroom if you only want to kneel. Space inside is roomier than it looks and brought a look of relief onto the faces of those lucky few who were invited on board for coffee or dinner during our holiday. Access is by stern or aft openings, and a side window allows a sleepy sailor to view the day ahead. Extra protection is provided by way of an additional fly-sheet.

With David's parents just across the pontoon in the local hotel, we washed and ate in style over the next few days. Rain and very high winds on our fourth day prevented a day trip afloat for Mum and Dad, so we piled into the car and drove, via Zierikzee, to view the Delta Exhibition on the Oosterschelde.

On Tuesday 23rd July 1985, David took his parents back to Vlissingen. The sky showed blue and clear and we gently sailed east along Veeremeer, wind N2, under genoa to really 'begin' our Dutch cruise. We tied up alongside one of the many holiday islands (Scholphackplaat) for an early tea, and enjoyed the warmth of the evening. In a very short space of time, Dutch hospitality was proven with a local discussion group advising us of our best route towards Amsterdam.

We slept well, but it didn't prevent us from breaking off our rudder lifting handle as we set off next morning (another black mark for the Skipper!). We had a glorious sail to the Meer end and, after locking out, half-sailed (wind slack S. 1), half-motored across the Oosterschelde. (Most of the Dutch locks and bridges are operated at no charge and at regular intervals, if not 'on demand'. Payment at rural bridges and locks is often collected by a deft swing of a tiny clog on a line, directed towards the vessel as it passes through.) Our view of the Zeelandbrug and the Oosterschelde was clear and calm and we slowly reached towards the Zierikzee buoy to leave the Oosterschelde along the Keeten.

We tried out a borrowed cruising shute for a while and played with our sunshade (used more against rain really). The large green fishing umbrella, lashed to the shrouds and hooked under the boom, gave plenty of shelter from weather, though at times it was slow to erect.

At Bruinisse we locked into Grevelingenmeer. We stayed some three days on this meer, sailing from shore to shore, staying in both huge marina complex (full we were told, but with space for a "little orange boat from England"), deserted, purpose-built island (not shown on our out-of-date 1982 map), and crammed into a tiny village harbour (Ouddorp) between fishing and dinghy craft. A true advantage of a small boat while sailing in popular holiday areas is that it can generally sneak between the bows of larger craft to gain access to the pontoon and shelter from wind and wash. The weather was useless for sunbathing, but held a variety of wind conditions which gave memorable downwind surges and wet, tiring tacks to reach the days' destinations. When conditions proved too tiresome to venture far from under the tent (SW 5/6, squalls, rain), we planned a detailed route to Amsterdam from information given and by getting to know the books and maps we had borrowed for the trip. The crew tried her hand at Dutch, thus forming facial contortions unknown and the locals speaking English.

28.7.85 Domesticity caused us to spend most of our departure day from the Meer in the launderette and shop, so we set off later than hoped along the Krammer and Vokerak to the River Dintel, where we planned to detour to Breda. Wind was SE2 and we carried full sail and genoa, tacking with other cruisers mostly of twice our waterline length (a case for deep concentration for the helmsman to creep from their wake to bow). We had chosen to depart on a Sunday to avoid large barge traffic on this stretch, but had not taken account of reduced manning of bridges.

As we reached the lock into the River Dintel the skies let loose another deluge of rain, and the lock shut for lunch. Up brolly, out sandwiches and a flask. We were without a detailed map along this leg of the journey and unfortunately didn't reach Breda that night. We'd had a good downwind passage and the crew had to wake from her slumber, pose and helm while the skipper, armed with the cruising shute again, played with poles and string ad infinitum. The wind died anyway.

We anchored for the night mid-canal. We had lowered our mast for the first time on this leg and gingerly re-raised it before securing ourselves snugly underneath the tent. We sailed on to Breda next morning beneath another flurry of rain squalls. The town proved as pretty as the guide had shown as we leisurely wandered around its cobbled streets.

We set off again later in the afternoon, following the River Mark until we joined the Wilhelminakanaal by means of a rather large lock. We stopped for the night at Geertruidenberg, which lies to the SE of the Biesbos, a nature/leisure area. The night's marina was small and adequate, and whilst the crew strung up the tent and laid out bedding, the skipper settled on a friendly traditional Dutch Botter for drinkies......the Botters are certainly very comfortable down below and, in our opinion, pretty to look at. We explored the Biesbos, sheltering in its channels from a SW6-7 outside, narrowly missing huge pleasure craft which cram into the area, and enjoying the scenery and wild life, particularly in the smaller channels which even modest sized cruisers cannot navigate. The fishing brolly came into its own again to keep the sandwiches dry. We joined the Nieuwe Merwede Canal and sailed under jib, with a following SW6-7, to Gorinchem. We then turned North along the Merwede Canal as far as Vianen, where ice creams were in order. Another day's motoring and we had reached Utrecht where we found a sheltered mooring on the banks of the town's Church grounds, snug between two large hulls. We had to be choosy over the spot because the mast had to be raised again and we were severely hampered by the lovely overhanging trees. By now, the end of our second week on our own, we were becoming skilled at changing the boat from day to night state of affairs, but were still too late that night to sample the food delights in the town. It's amazing how appetizing a meal on board can appear when viewed by dimmed torchlight!

By passing through the centre of Utrecht we avoided the busy commercial A.R. Canal, and for a small boat such as ours, the choice proved a great success. Some of the canal banks of Utrecht have been converted into waterside restaurants and craft shops; we had great fun passing them by as we glided and motored under its 13 bridges/tunnels, avoiding pleasure craft and oncoming traffic at short notice, before joining other on-going craft at the lock on the Northern side. Here could be interspersed the tale of the tolerance of a steel hull against solid concrete, but ‘tis better said than writ. We motored along the Vecht, sailing when possible, and spent one night on the Loosdrechtenplassen (a large lake area formed on old peat pits). That night proved very eventful - the skipper found he hadn't brought all the spares he might, and his crew voluntarily jumped overboard (twice) to go fishing.....troubled waters......

The last stretch of the River Vecht we travelled, from Utrecht to Weesp, was beautiful. We stayed at Weesp for a week-end to travel to Amsterdam by train to see the Tall Ships and visit its Maritime Museum. On Monday, 5th August 1985 we set off from Weesp heading North to Muiden on the edge of the Ijsselmeer. We took 'Tai Tai' to glimpse that great expanse of open water in anticipation of the next day's sail, but then returned to the comforts of a marina. We spent the most that night on mooring charges (£2.30) but enjoyed the close proximity of facilities and sat in deep, soft lounge chairs sampling Dutch coffee.

How good it felt that next day to hoist the sails and set off for our first sail on the Ijsselmeer. The wind was NW4-5. We poked our noses out and sailed North for 4 miles before turning back towards Muiden to enter the Flevoland meers. The forecasts for the next day were Force 6-7 and we felt that our time would be best spent travelling round the Southern end of the Ijsselmeer on these rondemeers, rather than risk this formidable lake under unsettled conditions. It was still quite cold for August, especially under the squalls which we seemed to have brought with us. We reefed later as the wind strengthened (and the sun shone) and settled for the night at a campsite marina at Nijkerk - we'd had a lovely day's sail! The crew concocted a pudding to celebrate and we ate with the tent open watching the day draw slowly to a close.

The little towns on the Southern shoreline of the rondemeers were once sea harbours and had been built up with fortifications. Elburg was one such village, still set within its moat. A local fair added to its beauty. Our last resting spot on the rondemeers was Zwartesluis. Here we splashed out on a two-course meal of soup, chicken, chips and APPELSAUS together! Yeuk!

9.8.85 We were sailing into Friesland now and noted the vast increase in sailing craft especially cruising dinghies of some 18 ft. in length with fixed 3-4 ft. keels; well equipped and fitted out for sleeping (and fast under sail). As most dinghy sailors had the option of sailing from one town to the next, the boats carried little provision for cooking and washing, and they found it amusing to watch this English counterpart busily passing the evening away on an all-in home afloat.

Friesland, with its vast network of canals and rivers opening onto lakes, was very pretty and the weather improved to give us ideal winds and warmth in which to explore. Our route north was via Beulaker Wijde, Giethoorn and Tjeukemeer. On Sneekermeer we spent one night tied up to one of the islands but had to move just before dusk as the wind had veered and was heading straight for us. We found some cosy long rushes and low hanging trees and nosed in, 'jungle style'! The density of sailing craft and commercial traffic became a problem when passing from one meer to the next and going through swing bridges or locks, as our poor little Seagull 2 HP was no match for the wake of the larger craft and their great hurry. One poor chap, whilst speeding through a lifting bridge, failed to see our dear little 'Tai Tai' in front of him, despite her 18 ft. mast! He wouldn't have done so at all had not the crew 'noticed' his fast approaching bows and politely told him to.... That poor man motored off on his way and twice returned from a great distance ahead to make his apologies!

We left from Heeg (a lovely place and full of traditional botters) on Tuesday, 13th August at about 11.30, with wind SW3, heading SW to Stavoren. We changed from jib to genoa in no time at all - poor crew - she so hates being disturbed! Skies cleared to blue by early afternoon and the skipper was forced to helm amidst the washing hung from the No. 1 reef points. We locked out into the Northern Ijsselmeer and, with the wind back to S, took a SW course across the lake to Medemblik, some 18 miles away. The wind died just after 17:30 and we motored the remaining 2 miles, arriving at 18:30. Castle Raboud at the harbour entrance was very picturesque. Our first trip on the Ijsselmeer had passed very smoothly and helped to allay the fears passed on by locals of our boat's handling on that exposed waterway.

14th August proved an incredible day........We spent the morning exploring Medemblik and set off about noon to cross the Ijsselmeer once more, heading NE for Makkum. The wind was SE light, and visibility was poor, but it was warm enough for sunbathing for a while. It clouded over by 16:00 and the sky was horribly dark and dense, with a stillness on the water that all know to be ominous! We decided in prudence to close down all hatches, don oilskins and life jackets and ......WHOOSH.......we were caught under a F8 thunder-squall. Large waves and torrential rain obliterated the poor visibility we had previously had. We hove-to and hoisted the storm jib and double-reefed the main while ‘Tai Tai’ slid beamwards down the short, sharp waves. We lost the main sheet a few times and found ourselves over-canvassed and unable to prevent green ones rushing in......the crew wondered if the Coastguard was a handsome man! A yacht, till then a close companion, tangled his halyards and was forced to motor into the storm. We headed into the wind hoping it would soon abate. Luckily we came across a large fishing trawler and two yachts who were all motoring somewhere? We decided to follow and were led into the safe harbour of Kornwerderzand (where's Makkum?). That brief (about 1 hour) yet tempestuous squall had created a tide in the Ijsselmeer of some 60 cms. and caused trees to fall to the SE and lives to be lost. We reached Makkum by 17:30 after seeking further directions, somewhat soggy and just a little shaky. A quick walk was in order, coupled with two very hot portions of chips, and then back to the boat to discuss the freak conditions with the natives. We were told the wind force in the harbour had been 8 so we certainly felt that the stability of our little boat had been proven - thanks Eric!

For some strange reason we stayed on shore the next day............

16.8.85 We set off to that safe harbour of refuge at the end of the lake to lock out into the Wadenzee and set sail for the island of Terschelling. Wind SW4-5, somewhat eased, but we cautiously set a reefed main and jib to tack across a rickety path, though well buoyed, between shoals. Boats could be seen from both fore and aft on their journeys to and from the islands. In all it took us about 4 1/2 hours to reach Terschelling (25 miles), including locking out of the Ijsselmeer. We tucked ourselves away at the back of Terschelling's long jetty and sauntered off for much needed leg exercise. We ignored the changing weather patterns over the next 36 hours and, in company of newly acquired friends, cycled and walked over the island enjoying its unspoilt beauty and isolation.

18.8.85 We sailed in the late afternoon the few miles between Terschelling and Vlieland and found a resting place in its new marina. Small boats seemed to group together and we found many willing helpers when it came to securing ‘Tai Tai’, especially as we had just become the smallest open craft to enter the marina in the memory of those present. We had only intended to spend a day on this island, doing much the same as we had on Terschelling, so it was with dismay that, after touring on cycles and on foot, we were forced to spend another two while watching strong winds and waves pound the shore - gales yet again! This, however, gave us time to become firm friends with two Dutch small boat enthusiasts, so our time was not wasted.

The rain was ceasing to cause us many problems, though it was still a constant companion. By day we got wet as our oilskins had now split their waterproof stitching and rubbed out their manufacturer's guarantee, and by night we stayed dry, with towels, flannels, sponges and bowls crammed into suspected leak areas along the canvas edge. The mast-leak re-route system was the best, with a series of sponges and flannels trailing the trickles of rainwater from the mast-step, over the forehatch entrance, into a large bowl perched on the chopping board, perched on the cooker, perched on a thwart, etc!

We left the Friesland Islands on the 22nd., disappointed that we had not had more time to visit Texel or the other Friesian Islands nearer the German border. The wind was SW4-6 (actually 4-5) and we cut across those famous sands on our return to Kornwerderzand and saved ourselves 5 miles. Once onto the lake again we noticed the shorter, sharper seas and duly soaked ourselves in making Enkhuisen. This was our longest day's sailing (09:00 to 18:30) and a distance of some 38 miles!

We now had just one week left and planned to visit towns on the Eastern side of the Ijsselmeer and find a suitable day to fetch the car and trailer from Veeremeer, where we had left it those six weeks previously. We visited Hoorn (where a suspect English crew showed us how to open wine bottles with pliers, and the author was called ‘Petal’), Volendam, Marken, Monnickendam and Edam, stopping overnight at most, but more at Hoorn through necessity as its good train connections (and the weather of course) made it a suitable starting point back to Veere. By Wednesday, 28th August most of our provisions had gone, so we splashed out on a truly costly meal in Hoorn's old lighthouse and entertained a furry four legged guest for our last night afloat. Shame we missed the ferry, but it was worth it as the extra, unplanned day was beautiful, a gorgeous westerly with a cloudless sky, by far the best day yet and we had to go home!

Cost (excluding pocket money & food):- Statistical Information:

Ferry £ 105 Wet Days: 22 out of 42 Insurance 26 Petrol: 8 galls. in travelling Ship Register 10 Boat Insurance 10 Helmsman Cert. 8 Car/Trailer Storage 17 Mooring Charges 52 £ 228