The meander of the River Wey at Shalford provides an excellent place to moor for the night, or, to stay for a day or so. There is very little traffic in this quiet backwater, and a fine range of natural life. Not only wildfowl, but sometimes deer can be seen early in the morning. There is a fair chance of spotting the electric-blue flash of a Kingfisher, and just a possibility of sighting an Otter. Shalford Churchyard was once the site of a May Fair which became notorious for improper behaviour and as a distraction for the pilgrims on their spiritual journey to Canterbury. All that remains however, is the base of the Maypole and the old stocks and whipping post. Many of Shalford's cottages date back to the 1650’s and the Mill (NT) is definitely worth a visit. There is access to all 4 floors, with much of the machinery in working order. There is also a doll's house, beautifully detailed, into which little children walk and play. The "Seahorse" (Gales) was claimed to serve the best beer in England, but its 16th Century interior has been ripped out in the interests of profitability.

Another possibility is a visit to Losely House, "Stately Home" where Queen Elizabeth I slept (it saved her house-keeping costs to sleep around), and where these days the famous ice cream and yoghurt is made. A mile further on is Compton Church, beautiful enough to make any atheist have doubts. ¼ mile beyond that is Watts Memorial Chapel, a great visual experience and not at all gloomy. There are plenty of places on the island between the St Catherine's meander and the Navigation where a boat could be left fairly safely whilst sightseeing.

In the morning, as my Grandson had to return to school, we were reduced to only the dory and Talbot's little canoe. We dropped downstream again and continued upriver. The banks were covered with Himalayan Balsam in all shades from pale pink to carmine. At St Catherine's Weir we portaged back into the navigation channel. We passed Broadford Bridge and the riverside "chalk houses", and the ultra-modern but not unattractive office development opposite them. (The "chalk houses" are in fact of clunch, a local hard chalk used not only for building, but also for carving fire-places and at least one Church's pulpit.) A pair of working narrow boats were moored here. Another ¼ mile and we were at the "Gun's Mouth", the entrance to the Wey & Arun Canal. (This name dates from when locally-made gunpowder was loaded onto barges here.)

Only the first ¼ mile of the Wey & Arun is fully navigable, and unfortunately even that is spoiled by a line of unkempt and unshapely boats. (I understand that the restored Wey & Arun Canal will only be open to non-powered craft.) At Stonebridge, which carries the A281 road, the canal is blocked except for a tiny culvert, and the short length of canal on the other side is strictly private. However, this is no problem. The channel turns sharply to the right and joins the Cranleigh Stream (Bramley Water), a wild and deserted little waterway running alongside the remains of the old canal. We continued as far as Tannery Lane Bridge. Here were shallows and would require a long portage to proceed even ½ mile further. With our crude trolley and heavy boat this would have taken too long, so we hauled out up the steep slope with a block-and-tackle. After inspecting the old railway bridge which had been built over an even earlier canal bridge, we loaded the boats into Peter's van and drove to Newbridge on the Arun.

It might be mentioned here that there is an excellent pub with a caravan and camp-site ½ mile down the B2133 road south of Newbridge. It is the "Limeburners", and has fine oak beams and a huge open fire, does meals, and in addition to the usual drinks serves Real Cider in sweet, dry and "half-and-half".

During an earlier reconnaissance we had taken a boat well above Newbridge to the restored Rowner Lock, but today we were in for a shock. At Newbridge the river was some 2 ft. below the bottom of the depth gauge, and the channel was concealed in dense clumps of rushes. There was hardly any flow of water. We nevertheless decided to try and force a passage, hoping to reach clear water within a mile or so. We lowered the boats by block-and-tackle and Talbot pushed ahead in his tiny canoe while Peter and I struggled with the larger dory. Little did we realise that we would be poling, pushing, paddling, dragging and portaging almost till dusk, and then again from soon after dawn to nearly Noon next day!

There were two major weirs to be negotiated by hauling out, but also any number of smaller loose stone weirs and obstructions caused by fallen trees. At one point we had to cut a shallow by-pass channel through the mud! There were signs that the water level was falling even further, with the risk that the boats would be marooned far from a road. However, despite all the worries, discomforts and exertions, we all agreed that the beauty of these unspoilt headwaters was unforgettable and an experience we would not have missed. It reminded me in some ways of my experiences in the Amazon headwater streams. Only once did we meet or even see other people, and I doubt whether anyone saw us, hidden as we were below the river bank. Most of the time we were only a few 100 yds. from the bed of the old canal. In one place a bridge had been restored, but there was not yet enough water to float even a canoe!

When at last we reached Pallingham, the normal tidal limit, we found the tide was out, but some distance below the farm we were at last able to row easily with the current, and Talbot hoisted his little sails. We were now traversing superb pastoral country with the South Downs in view. Having passed the entrance to the old Wey & Arun Canal we could stop for a well-earned rest, knowing we would not be left high and dry by the still falling tide.

We pushed on again and with the fast-flowing stream soon reached the road bridge at Stopham, and then passed the entrance to the old Midhurst Canal which once provided navigation as far as Midhurst. Next came the confluence with the River Rother. As this was low water there were shallows and rapids by the old (A29) bridge, so I got out of the dory to check the safest route through. Unfortunately Talbot, who had been out of sight behind, did not understand my shouted warning and was swept against the cut-water of the bridge, fortunately without injury or serious damage.

In Dashwood's time the great loop of the River Arun at Pulborough could be avoided by taking a canal cut which ran through a long tunnel at Hardham. The southernmost end of the cut can still be seen, about a mile below Greatham Bridge. At Greatham Bridge I went ashore for supplies and the Warden of the Nature Reserve very kindly drove me to the nearest shop just before it closed. With more food and water on board, we carried on until the incoming tide made further progress impractical, then camped on the river bank below the sea-wall. Talbot had to walk about a mile to the nearest farmhouse to telephone home. We were still a long way from what people call 'civilisation'!

In the morning we set off as soon as the flood stream slackened, and once the ebb set-in, were bowled along at a fine rate. These waters were once used by sailing barges (see illustration) and Talbot hoisted the sails on his little canoe. Not to be outdone, Peter and I set my huge fisherman's umbrella as a spinnaker, and with the finer streamlined shape of our dory, soon over-hauled Talbot.

The South Downs now rose steeply and dramatically on either side. We swept on past Amberley Wild Brooks Nature Reserve and Amberley Castle, but nipped ashore for a quick pint at the "Black Rabbit". We swept on again with the racing tide past the Wildfowl Trust, the Castle and the many other attractions of Arundel, and continued while the weather held and the tide served (the ebb stream runs at 4-6K).

After Arundel the river loses much of its interest and charm, at least at low water. Being well below the high sea-wall we could, in any case, see very little. There was no sign of the branch canal which once, before even Dashwood's time, provided the inland waterway link with Chichester, Langstone and Portsmouth Harbours. Below Ford raw sewage was being pumped into the river. We could have done without that!

The tide level was rising as we neared Littlehampton, but the ebb stream held just long enough for us to reach the Lifeboat slip and haul out. Littlehampton still retains some of its old-time charm with its boat yards, docks, and unspoilt West Beach.

So what was our verdict on the exercise? We were all agreed that despite the difficulties it had been worthwhile. The “Lost Route” still offers a fine range of scenery and an abundance of natural and historical interest for those with more time to spend. It is possibly the best way of seeing the Surrey and Sussex countryside as it was before "development" ruined so much of it. I for one intend to try and narrow the gap in the “Lost Route” even further using a light, short cruising canoe and an efficient trolley. I have since read that the Arun has been canoed from as high as Gibbon's Mill, and in the right conditions it should be possible to close the gap at the Bramley end too. I would of course pick a time in the fishing closed season and when water levels are higher.

A leisurely Wey & Arun cruise could also be undertaken in a large and comfortable dinghy. Launching at Weybridge is no problem; some help might be needed in hauling out a Guildford or Stonebridge; launch again at Pulborough; go up with the tide to Pallingham; then back with the ebb to Arundel or to Littlehampton Lifeboat slip. There would be no problem collecting car and trailer. There are good train services from Guildford to Weybridge, and from Littlehampton or Arundel to Pulborough. With all the attractions along the route, a week or even a fortnight would not be too long.

It is of course possible to walk the Wey & Arun Canal route by using the Wey South Footpath.(3) Talbot Kirk did just that a few weeks later, back-packing in pouring rain. This was despite a large dog which objected to his presence and jumped on his tent, collapsing it and soaking everything in the process! This means he has paddled, portaged or back-packed all the way from Bath to Littlehampton in his mid-80's! The Wey South walk could of course be combined with the dinghy cruise suggested earlier, but the full “Lost Route”, when it is eventually restored, will be even better!

REFERENCES, etc.

(1) "The Thames to the Solent", J B Dashwood, 1868. Reprinted by Shepperton Swan. Available from Wey & Arun Canal Trust (below) or on loan from DCA Library. (2) "De Manio in Search of Dashwood", AA "Drive" magazine (AA Archives). (3) "Wey South Path" (from Guildford to the South Downs), Aeneas Mackintosh. A guide to walking the route of the Wey & Arun Canal. 50p. from the Wey & Arun Canal Trust, 24 Griffiths Avenue, Lancing, West Sussex, BN15 OHW

History of Wey & Arun route and early boating. See (1) and:

"London's Lost Route to the Sea", P A L Vine, David & Charles 1986 "Victorian Pleasure Boating" by the same author. "Teacher's Notes" (for the Wey around Guildford), Guildford Borough Library (photocopies may be taken). "Lost Route to Sea Followed on 4-Day Expedition". Half-page account of the DCA exercise. The Surrey Advertiser. 29th Aug.1986.

LAUNCHING SITES

WEYBRIDGE. At confluence of Wey with Thames, Junction of Thames St. with Walton Lane. Concrete ramp. Car park (free).

GUILDFORD (STONEBRIDGE). 2 miles S. of Guildford on A281 (Brighton) road. Haul up steep bank on NW of bridge. Room for trailer on verge.

NEWBRIDGE on A272 road 12 miles W. of Billingshurst MR 068 260. Lower boat down steep bank. Park on verge or by arrangement with farm.

PULBOROUGH. By old bridge carrying A29 road. Concrete ramp on N. side. Parking on S. side. MR 046 185. Tidal influence.

ARUNDEL. Follow signs to Wildfowl Reserve. Pass car park, turn right into field before 'Black Rabbit' pub. Launch over steep river bank. Strong tidal streams ± 3 hrs. HW. HW approx. Dover + 22 hrs. MR 024 084.

LITTLEHAMPTON. In town. Lifeboat launching ramp (do not leave boat). Public car park - low charges. HW as Dover.