DCA Cruise Reports Archive

AN ALTERNATIVE TO CALAIS Burry Port to Milford Haven

Bob Wagstaffe & Caroline Nathan 1992 Q1 Bulletin 134/25 Locations: Bristol, Dale, Dover, English Channel, Freshwater, Milford Haven, Saundersfoot, Severn, Swansea, Tenby Boats: Wayfarer

Last May Bank Holiday Treacle (Wayfarer 4333) was all set to join a cross channel rally from Dover to Calais; unfortunately it had to be cancelled at short notice due to lack of safety cover. However, as she was all geared to go foreign, the decision was taken to head west along the M4 without our copy of the DCA launching site directory. (We did have a copy of the AA’s Illustrated Guide to Britain’s Coast — much recommended).

Our ship’s papers and passports were declared in order at the customs post adjacent to the Severn Bridge — the customs officer was a little uncertain if the chart of the English Channel would be much use in the Bristol variety, and suggested trying Swansea marina for a replacement. We pulled into the marina at three minutes past five on the Friday evening to find the shop shut! Not fancying camping at the marina, we pushed on west through Llanelli looking for a suitable launching site to get into Carmarthen Bay.

By eight o’clock we were camped alongside the old harbour at Burry Port. For anybody who has travelled along the A484 and doesn’t know this pleasant little place on the Loughor estuary, it is recognisable by two very tall derelict power station chimneys and several modern windmills. The harbour dries but there several slips including one giving access at low water. Nobody seemed to object to us camping on the large expanse of freshly cut grass surrounding the harbour and local boat club. We were entrusted with minding the fishing nets overnight!

Saturday dawned clear with the promise of a north-easterly wind. The local chandlery provided a chart which covered most of the coast and the RNLI inshore rescue team provided the pilotage for getting out to sea via Worms Head. After a short delay whilst waiting for the tide to reach the bottom of the slip, we left at midday for Tenby, having been reassured by the local fishermen that it was 19 miles — and did we really know what we were doing?

The trip down the estuary was a little disconcerting as there are many sandbanks and shallows, however the advice of the RNLI to sail south-west gave a clear run into Carmarthen Bay. A pleasant following force 3 to 4 wind gave us a quick trip across the bay and it wasn’t long before we made out the high coastline behind Tenby and Saundersfoot. Apart from meeting a dinghy off Tenby, we saw no other boats in the five hour trip.

We sailed Treacle onto the harbour beach and then found a spot alongside the harbour for the night. After putting up the boat tent and supper, we retired to Tenby Sailing Club in the hope of gaining some local knowledge for the next day’s sail to Milford Haven. After much advice about catching the tide, the alarm was set for 5.30am!

The trip from Tenby to Milford Haven was one of those that we dream about but rarely happen. We passed Caldy Island shortly after 8am with light offshore breeze and brilliant sunshine. Our target was to round Linney Head before the tide turned easterly — progress was a little slower than I would have liked, but the sun and a chance to do some mackerel fishing made up for it. In the end it took two hours to clear the head and get into the slack water of Freshwater Bay; from here the wind freshened to good 4-5 NE, making the narrow entrance to Milford Haven more than interesting with wind against tide.

We finally dropped anchor off Dale Sailing Club, whose lady members were sure there were some visitors’ moorings but were uncertain where we would find them! The rest of the day was spent relaxing and watching the hundreds of wind surfers that have invaded the area since my last visit 30 years ago!

The return trip to Tenby on the Bank Holiday Monday was by courtesy of our Seagull. The promise of light easterly winds came to nothing and we were forced to motor the whole way. Four hours fishing produced nothing; fortunately it was warm and sunny, and with no sea at all we were able to pass very close to the bottom of the cliffs which were swarming with weekend rock climbers. Once back in Tenby, the tent was put up and I went off to take the train back to Burry Port to collect the car. The train ambles up to Carmarthen on a single track and then follows the Towy estuary back down to the coast passing another interesting looking sailing area at Ferryside where the rivers Taf, Towy and Gwendraeth meet.

Within three hours of leaving Tenby I was back with the trailer and having a late supper on Treacle. The following morning the boat was rowed across the harbour and pulled out on the slipway adjacent to the sailing club. So ended a very enjoyable weekend going foreign — the locals didn’t think much of our recently acquired Tricolore.

This trip is best suited to a long weekend — if anybody requires any further information please contact me on 0993 811027 (Woodstock, Oxford).