Restless — Wayfarer W404

Saturday 14th July — Poole to Studland 4 miles Weather — Overcast Wind — NW force 4, gusting 5 Sail — Main with one reef, small jib

We sailed from the mooring at the East Dorset Sailing Club at 1530hrs after a morning spent shopping and collecting together final items of boat gear. The strong ebb through Poole Harbour entrance was causing eddies and patches of confused little pointed waves which were no trouble to us but were the pretext for me to deliver a lecture to Paul about what he might expect when we sailed through Hurst Narrows.

We anchored close to the beach opposite the end of the path to the village at Studland at about I700hrs. Restless has an excellent tent made to a standard design by Moreland Tarpaulins which is roughly the Mark III design illustrated in the Wayfarer Information Pack.

Paul, the chief cook, produced supper of the standard to which we soon became accustomed. Avocado with 1000 Islands dressing Stuffed chicken breasts — M & S New potatoes, stringless beans Raspberries and cream

German white wine — good value but vile

After supper we paid the traditional visit to the Bankes Arms.

Sunday 15th July — Studland to Newtown 22 miles Weather — Overcast, sunny periods Wind — NW force 4/5 Sail — main with one reef, small jib HW Portsmouth — 1401hrs

The day’s activities were determined by the time of the eastgoing tide through Hurst Narrows. The very first trickle eastwards could not be expected before 1900hrs — HW Portsmouth +5 — and so we had a leisurely morning with bacon and eggs for breakfast at 1030hrs. Cooked breakfasts were to become a feature of this cruise as neither of us eat breakfast at home. The division of duties on board was simple and worked well. I was in charge of planning, sailing and such navigation as there was. I also did the washing up. Paul was responsible for most of the helming, cooking, fishing and sunbathing.

As Paul cooked the Sunday breakfast I discovered that there is nothing like a steady supply of biscuits for keeping a chef happy in his work.

At midday we went ashore for water and decided not to call at the Bankes Arms as we had an afternoon passage to make and did not want to feel drowsy. The afternoon shipping forecast was unchanged. NW force 4/5, decreasing 3/4 later.

With such a good sailing breeze we were impatient to be away so we sailed at 1513hrs. After leaving the shelter of Studland cliffs we raced off with the wind on the port quarter. Paul sat in the bottom of the boat fishing happily although we were travelling far too fast for the mackerel. The promised force 5 arrived and we surfed over the waves. I had never sailed such a heavily laden Wayfarer in such conditions before and although it was very exciting I rather regretted not having taken the second reef in the mainsail but I was not sufficiently anxious to want to stop to do it.

We passed Hengistbury Head at 1715hrs and anchored in the lee for a while. We were very early for the tide at Hurst and we wanted to listen to the 175Ohrs Shipping Forecast.

Before setting off again we took the second reef in the mainsail. The extra reef gave us a more sedate ride and I think we lost no speed as we rushed on down the coast to the North Head Buoy and Hurst Castle. My dire warnings to Paul about how rough Hurst Narrows can be proved to have been unnecessary as with wind and tide together we shot through with a flat sea disturbed only by the usual tidal eddies.

Once in the Solent the wind died. We shook out the reefs but were too lazy to set the genoa.

We entered Newtown River with the first of the flood under us at 2015hrs and gently drifted past the anchored boats under jib only. I hate coming into an anchorage at high speed however well I know it.

The owner of one of the anchored boats asked us where we had come from and when we said Studland his tone became very deferential which seemed to us quite undeserved after such a glorious afternoon sailing. We drifted up the river until we grounded just above Shalfleet Quay. The anchor went over the side, the tent up and dinner was soon served. Mulligatawny soup, lamb steaks, broccoli and a bottle of red Sauvignon.

Monday 16th July — Moored at Newtown

Gentleman’s hours again and our traditional cooked breakfast. Just before midday the tide was high enough for us to move and moor alongside the bank in a little creek just above the gate that gives access to Shalfleet Quay.

After a swift ‘half’ at the New Inn we caught a bus to Yarmouth to look around and do some shopping. We completed a lazy day by treating ourselves to an excellent seafood supper at the New Inn, four pints of very ‘moorish’ bitter, then back on board for a tot to make sure that we slept well.

I seem to be writing a lot about food so this might be the point to say that aboard Restless we cook on a twin burner Optimus paraffin stove. I am not a fan of bottled gas as it blows out too easily and I think is not as adjustable as paraffin. The Optimus has the added advantage of being flat and therefore very stable.

Tuesday 17th July — Newtown

We were anxious not to forget that we were on holiday and so we treated ourselves to another leisurely morning sunbathing and another pub lunch before moving down the river into deeper water. I wanted to be sure that we would be afloat when the westgoing tide in the Solent began on Wednesday morning.

For those who are unfamiliar with Solent tides there is just one simple fact to remember which provides the clue to the whole situation. The tide generally begins to flow to the west for six hours, two hours before high water at Portsmouth.

Aboard Restless we have developed a method of propulsion for use in sheltered waters which we call ‘gondoliering’. We both stand on the foredeck with an oar apiece and without singing paddle the boat along. We anchored for the night on the western edge of the channel just below Hamstead landing. After a visit to the Hamstead Farm Shop for water and ice cream we dined on board on melon, Beesley’s Bolognaise and Angel Delight. We were planning to sail next day for Cowes and so in order to save weight we felt it would be useful to consume two bottles of wine.

Wednesday 18th July — Newtown to Cowes ‘Folly’ 7 miles Weather — clear sky, hot sun Wind — calm HW Portsmouth — 1554hrs

What a magnificent day for a summer holiday, hot sun and not a breath of wind. This was obviously going to be a day when some serious rowing was called for. I reminded myself that in my undergraduate days rowing had been a passion with me, that outboard motors are heavy and messy and that if I had one I would have to pay higher harbour dues at Poole. We rowed to Cowes making good use of the brisk westgoing tide and moored alongside a pontoon at the National Sailing Centre at 1315hrs. Mooring requires tying knots, Paul’s only failure as a crew. Try as he will every knot, hitch or bend turns into the unique Beesley Bend, a knot with the one doubtful advantage of coming undone always, easily and without warning.

After an afternoon shopping and showering we sailed, drifted and rowed up to the Folly Inn where we arrived in time to listen to the 1750hrs Shipping Forecast. After a brief visit to the Folly — not what it used to be — we let the tide carry us back down the river to anchor close to the west bank half way between the Folly and the power station.

Tent up, pate, cheese omelettes, ratatouille, strawberries and cream, a medicinal tot and to bed.

Thursday 19th July — Cowes to Gosport 10 miles Wind — NE force 2 HW Portsmouth — 1632hrs

We were under way at 1045hrs and had a gentle beat down the River Medina and out into the Solent. The Brambles Buoy was abeam at 1200hrs and with the aid of the tide we beat slowly eastwards. The sky was overcast and it was cooler than the previous few days. Paul fished but still no mackerel. As we came nearer to Gilkicker Point the wind freshened and there was a typically steep, short and wet making sea. A reef was really needed but as I had sailed from Portsmouth for a number of years before moving to Poole I guessed that once round the point the wind would die. Die it did to a frustrating force 1/2 from anywhere between NE and SE Never trust an easterly in the Solent I was told years ago — true. We entered Portsmouth Harbour at 1430hrs and sailed up Weevil Creek to moor alongside a pontoon at the Gosport Cruising Club. We were made very welcome by the Mooring Officer and by the Commodore. That night we had supper ashore with a friend from Fareham.

Friday 20th July — Gosport to Langstone 8.5 miles Weather — overcast but warm Wind — very light, easterly HW Portsmouth — 1712hrs

I have done most of my sailing in traditional cruising boats and so I am always very conscious of the importance of planning passages to work with the tides. We left the Gosport Cruising Club at 1300hrs so that we would have enough of the eastgoing tide to carry us to Langstone Harbour entrance where we would save enough of the flood to take us up to Langstone village. There was just enough wind for us to sail out of Portsmouth Harbour over the flood. At one point I made the gesture of unlashing the oars but the wind took the hint and so I tied them up again. We drifted and fished our way, via the outer passage in the submarine barrier, to the entrance of Langstone Harbour, which we reached at 1530hrs with some flood still in hand. A gentle beat up the harbour brought us to Hayling Bridge at 1700hrs.

At this point in our cruise there was a moment of truth when I discovered something of my crew’s opinion of my ability as a skipper. I had said that we would anchor between the two bridges at Langston to take the mast down and row through to Chichester Harbour. I knew that the railway bridge had been demolished years ago leaving only the two central piers standing. Paul could not see two bridges but he was polite enough not to question my sanity at this point. When he saw that there had been two bridges he gently pointed out that I was a totally vague and incompetent but patient instructor. We picked up vacant moorings each side of the road bridge to lower and raise the mast and eventually we anchored in front of the Royal Oak. Later in the evening we were met by some friends from Waterlooville who took us home for showers, supper and a session with the washing machine. Having wined and dined in great style we returned on board through the Chichester Harbour mud which is black, slippery and sticky. After an almost face to face encounter with the mud we left our muddy things on the foredeck before turning in.

Saturday 21st July — Langstone to East Head 5 miles Weather — clear sky, bright sun Wind — E force 2/3

We floated off the mud in front of the Royal Oak at 1700hrs and had a gentle sail to East Head arriving at about 1915hrs. The anchorage off the head was very crowded as it was the weekend and there was also a barbecue on the beach to raise funds for the RNLI. I had never been to East Head before and so was not sure of the best anchorage or how things looked at low water. In future I think I may be tempted to anchor in Snowhill Creek being careful to avoid drying out on the side of the steep gully in the middle.

Supper menus will probably be boring by now so I will not reveal any more. But as a final comment on our victuals I must say that the standard was never lowered.

Sunday 22nd July — East Head to Cowes 17 miles Weather — clear sky, hot sun Wind — E/SE force 3/4 HW Portsmouth — 1845hrs

Another lazy morning sunbathing and wandering round East Head admiring the scenery. We were under way at 1545hrs and after taking local advice decided to take a short cut over the Winner to Chichester Bar Beacon.

Once round the beacon we were able to free the sheets and shake out the reef in the mainsail. As so often in hot weather with easterly winds the visibility was not very good so I set a compass course of 265 degrees to take us through the forts and into the Solent. Sailing west we passed a long procession of boats beating back to their moorings in Chichester Harbour after a weekend away. The wind gradually died and what was left of it was cancelled out by the strong tide. In desperation we set the spinnaker as we passed Ryde Pier. The oars were required off Norris Castle but as usual a few strokes were enough to shame the breeze into life. We sailed up to the National Sailing Centre arriving at about 2000hrs.

Monday 23rd July — Cowes to Bursledon 8 miles Weather — hot and sunny Wind — E force 3 HW Portsmouth — 1958hrs

The plan for the day was to sail up the River Hamble to Bursledon and so there was no need to make an early start — yet again! The tide was not particularly important as we would be sailing across it. It was however desirable to have the flood with us up the Hamble especially if the wind died away in the evening.

The morning proved to be the best part of the day and we spent it basking in the sun on Cowes promenade. We wandered back to the Sailing Centre aiming to be away at about 1530hrs. For those who find life without showers a trial the National Sailing Centre is a bonus. It is situated on the west bank of the Medina about half a mile above the chain ferry. Visitors are made welcome and the charges are very moderate.

By the time we reached the open Solent the sun had gone in but the wind was still force 3 from the east over the eastgoing tide giving us a perfect sail across to the Hamble. The wind began to die as we entered the river as it had on previous evenings. Having drifted slowly up the river we moored, by invitation, alongside an old gaffer at the Elephant Boatyard. One of the problems with dinghy cruising is getting ashore. If you dry out in mud it is good for the boat but bad for the crew. If you dry out on shingle it is good for the crew but not so good for the antifouling, so when we intend to go ashore I try to lie alongside whenever possible. I suppose I could carry a small inflatable dinghy but I do not want the weight in the boat nor the inconvenience of blowing it up and packing it after use.

By this stage of our cruise I had acquired an unaccustomed state of relaxation and as we came alongside the boatyard pontoon I casually said to Paul “just fend off please”, giving no indication of what I intended to do next, as a result of which Paul very nearly fell into the river. The incident was a conversation opener with the owner of the old gaffer nearby and resulted in the invitation for Restless to lie outside his boat.

A good day was concluded with supper at the Spinnaker and pints of 6X at the Jolly Sailor.

Tuesday 24th July — Bursledon to Newtown 12 miles Weather — cloudy Wind — very light E HW Portsmouth — 2102hrs

When stowing the bedding in the forward buoyancy compartment I noticed that a small amount of water had got in. I made a careful investigation with a torch and found nothing visibly wrong and as the amount of water was less than a half a pint and so a nuisance but not vital, I decided that this was a detective job for the fitting out season. We spent the morning drifting down the river to Warsash.

On the way down I achieved a hitherto undreamed of degree of relaxation. We were nominally — as there was really no wind — on the starboard tack on the windward side of the channel which from the point of view of the rule of the road was the wrong side. This was entirely my fault as I have often said to my loyal crew “in a narrow channel it helps to keep to the windward side” and “the best fault when steering a course is to be slightly up to windward”. As we drifted round a bend a fishing boat appeared heading towards us at speed. Paul asked me what I wanted to do and from my state of blissful withdrawal I muttered “Oh, never mind about him”. My reverie was terminated by a well deserved ‘swearin’ at’ by the skipper of the fishing boat.

After lunch the wind remained in the east force 1/2 and so we decided to set off early for Newtown to see if we could sail over the foul tide. Off Calshot the wind died as we altered course and we set the spinnaker and had a drifting match against the tide with a large cruising yawl astern of us. By the time that we reached the East Lepe the wind began to freshen up a little and we had a brisk run all the way to Newtown arriving at our favourite mooring above the quay at about 1900hrs. Not too bad considering the light airs and the foul tide.

Wednesday 25th July

One’s arrival at Newtown is always best celebrated by a day off to enjoy it. We were given a lift into Newport by someone we met drinking his lunch at the New Inn. I then took a bus to Cowes to shower at the National Sailing Centre. Paul stayed at Newport and says that he enjoyed the afternoon very much. A surprise in such a dismal place. We both decided that the Isle of Wight must have the most expensive bus fares in the world.

After a farewell lobster at the New Inn we turned in early and were kept awake by a thunderstorm. A good test for the tent.

Thursday 26th July — Newtown to Keyhaven 7 miles Weather — bright sun Wind — very light from the west HW Portsmouth — 1035hrs

Because high water in the Solent is not long after the westgoing stream begins we were able to get under way as soon as we floated but we were not sufficiently organised to be ready before 1100hrs. We managed to sail down the river but the wind died at the entrance and we rowed and drifted on the tide until we were well past Hamstead Ledge Buoy. Half way to Yarmouth a breeze of about force 3 sprang up from the west and we had a fine sail the rest of the way to Keyhaven. The continuous fine weather had made us lazy about stowing our gear and lacing the tent properly at night and so two pairs of jeans had got wet in the thunderstorm the previous night. These now stood out like telltales as they dried in the rigging as we sped along.

The ebb was well in by the time we reached the Keyhaven entrance but there was plenty of wind for us to sail over it. We moored alongside the Quay at about 1400hrs. After an early evening call at the Gun Inn we rowed down the river and anchored for the night. The westerly breeze was fairly fresh by now but our anchorage close under the weather bank was comfortable enough.

Friday 27th July — Keyhaven to Studland 17 miles Weather — early morning fog Wind — very light SW HW Portsmouth — 1126hrs

We were woken by the Needles foghorn at 0630hrs but by 0930hrs the sun was breaking through the mist and visibility was good enough for us to get under way for Studland at 1115hrs. By the time we left Keyhaven the sun was bright and warm and we sailed on wearing only shorts and lifejackets; a mistake. Once past Hurst at 1205hrs we made a long port tack past the North Head Buoy and westwards down the coast to Christchurch. Gradually the wind increased and we enjoyed ourselves overtaking a number of small cruising boats also heading west. As the wind freshened we put on more clothes but foolishly did not bother with boots or oilskins. The wind increased enough to require a reef in the mainsail before we reached Christchurch Ledge. On with oilskins but too late we were already wet. By the time we reached the rough water over the ledge itself I decided that the small jib was required. I was lying on the foredeck changing headsails just as we reached the roughest water. From Paul’s position at the helm he said it looked as if I was trying hard to qualify for a career as a submariner. Even with reduced sail we were still leaving small cruisers behind. Off Bournemouth Pier we tacked and set full sail again as the wind had taken off quite a lot. In fact I began to worry whether we would be becalmed before we reached Studland. My fears were unfounded. By the time we had tacked out to Poole Bar the wind was firmly back in the west with gusts of force 5 which set up a nasty little sea. I made friends with a number of these waves on the foredeck shortening sail again. As well as the small jib we reefed the main. We should have taken two reefs but as we were now in the bay the seas were smaller and the Studland anchorage in sight. Once more human frailty triumphed over good seamanship and we made do with one reef.

We anchored as usual close to the beach at Studland at 1615hrs and enjoyed half an hour relaxing after an eventful passage. We rowed to the beach made a tour of inspection of the Bankes Arms and returned on board with 45p unspent in our pockets.

Saturday 28th July — Studland to Poole E.D.S.C. 4 miles

After breakfast we rowed over to the main beach. There was a good NW breeze blowing so I can only think that we did not sail because I thought the distance much shorter than it looked.

After a final day in the sun we returned Restless to her mooring at about 1700hrs. Having enjoyed two weeks of perfect weather in an excellent boat and never a cross word between skipper and crew I wonder whether we dare take Restless cruising again lest we should be disappointed.

Total Distance Sailed — 121 miles