On Choosing a Dinghy - Part II

Peter Bick 1993 Q2 Bulletin 139/25 Locations: Solent Boats: Drascombe, Enterprise, Mirror, Roamer, Sailing Canoe, Tideway, Wayfarer

3. The Heavier Dinghies. In the last Bulletin I dealt with two groups of dinghies, the racing and the family racing/general purpose types. I also said, that other things being equal, the heavier a boat is, the more it resists being heeled by the wind pressure on its sails. Another advantage of weight is the added momentum when working to windward in a choppy sea. The heavier boat seems to drive onwards thus maintaining the flow of air over its sails. It would appear then that for this reason as well as for stability the cruising dinghy should be heavy. This seems true but there are many reasons we choose small boats to sail in. We like them to be responsive, easy to handle when ashore, cheap to buy and to store, preferably unsinkable etc. Weight can detract from these characteristics. Still what is heavy? The nineteenth century sailors were much fonder of ballast to keep a boat upright than we are, typical is a sailing canoe built in 1879 for cruising in the Solent, 16 feet long by 4 feet 1 inch beam, and carrying over 4 cwt. of lead ballast! It is not necessary to go as far as this nowadays to obtain a satisfactory blend of characteristics. Once we decide that planing is something we can do without then weight is no longer quite such an enemy and we can choose a boat without the flat run aft and of a shape that doesn't have to be sailed upright.

A prime example of this is the Drascombe range. One can allow them to take up a reasonable angle of heel, thus saving too much sitting-up. As windward performance is not a priority they can have a wholesome shear; a more seaworthy shape that makes for a dryer boat and also resists total inversion. If we can accept that our dinghy does not have to point as close to the wind as a 6 metre, then we can choose a rig of lower height with less heeling effect for its drive such as the gaff and lug rigged Character Boats of Bill Bailiff, which also carry a moderate amount of ballast. If we don't want to abandon modern convention all together then a design such as the Tideway type can suit. Somewhat heavier than the Sports type dinghy, commonly with a gunter rig which gives good performance to windward. It gains in stability not only from a moderate increase in weight but also by its shape. Whereas the waterline beam of a racing type dinghy is much less than its beam at the gunwale, giving low resistance with powerful sitting out ability; the Tideway and similar dinghies have a greater waterline beam for their length giving greater natural stability which is not so dependant on its crew. A secondary advantage is the lower risk of capsizing to windward although this is more a racing than a cruising hazard. When reefed the gunter rig incurs less windage aloft than a bermudan rig of similar area. Regretfully the stable clinker dinghies of this sort that were still plentiful 20 or 30 years ago at moderate prices, are now rare and certainly expensive if new.

Since the war however there have been many designs in GRP apart from sports dinghies. Look for bilge sections similar to the accompanying diagram. Before we go overboard on the heavy dinghies let us consider the disadvantages of the type. Weight we can say at once, but this need only apply to pushing it about on its trailer. As far as launching is concerned, anything under say 850 lbs and with a mast less than 20 feet in length is still a single handed proposition; my article on this subject is available upon receipt of a sae. Once afloat weight ceases to be a problem and even when it runs aground it can be pushed off with little difficulty.

The main problem is finding them as there are comparatively few available on the second-hand market. The models that are produced can suffer from several complaints. The first is that the manufacturers have a habit of giving them too small a rig. They seem to assume that anyone who buys a traditional shape can be fobbed off with a slow boat. Planing apart a heavy dinghy can be virtually as fast as a light dinghy, faster in certain conditions. The second is that a picturesque rig is considered a good selling point. Some of these have great advantages over a bermudan sloop; nevertheless, although we might be bored to tears by this ubiquitous rig, that is no reason to take the choice away from us just because we want a dinghy with a more stable shape.

A third defect if we want our boats to be reasonably weatherly in a blow, is an excessively high cuddy, or even a cuddy at all, on a boat too small to drive its windage to weather. We also should make sure that the top of the centreboard comes above water level when the boat is swamped; or failing that it should be capable of being sealed off with rags etc. otherwise water will come in faster than you can bale. Manufacturers of dinghies for racing know that their products should be capable of being easily righted and baled out, even though they are not always that successful in attaining it. Dinghies described by their makers as "classic, pretty, traditional and characterful", can be as unsuitable for our purpose as those described as "exciting, dynamic, exhilarating and thoroughbred".

There is however a possible ideal to aim for. A boat that is not easy to capsize, will recover by itself if it does, will have an efficient weatherly rig which is easy to reef together with a slippery hull, and will have lots of dry stowage and buoyancy. Unfortunately, as far as I am aware, there are no commercially produced craft that meets these criteria so you can't just go and buy one. There are at least two designs in existence however. Both John Perry and the late Eric Coleman designed boats that suited their own ideals and built them. Both have hull shapes which are similar to sports/racing designs and require their crew to sit them up in a breeze to get the best out of them but allow a more relaxed attitude if required. Both carry ballast and are therefore heavier than modern sports dinghies.

Eric's 'Roamer' has a low aspect bermudan rig with three jibs to choose from. John's is gunter. I don't know whether John's design is available but Eric's certainly is but you will either have to build it yourself, pay someone else to do it or find one second-hand. The hull sections of a Roamer are closer to a Wayfarer or Enterprise than a Tideway, this makes sitting it out worthwhile to gain power in a seaway. I have to admit that on my Roamer I have had water over the lee gun'l on several occasions; but when you know that your boat will come upright again by simply easing the sheets, you are able to drive your boat harder.

4. The Lightweight. A very seaworthy alternative to the dinghy which is primarily a sailer, is the craft designed to be rowed, with sail as only an equal or secondary means of propulsion. Nearly all sailing dinghies can be rowed of course, but compared with those designed for the purpose they come a pretty poor second. A slippery light hull, without if possible even a dagger board slot to spoil it, has to be experienced to understand the joy of such a craft. In order to withstand rough seas and strong winds in a light boat it is essential to be able to pull down the mast when taking to the oars.

This requires a simple rig. The advantage of such a boat is its versatility as it can be launched from many places denied to heavier more complicated craft. It does not have to be particularly light, but as lightness confers no real disadvantages in such a concept it seems worth having. To anyone of reasonable sensitivity, learning the skill to handle these boats in a seaway can be pleasurable and rewarding. Such boats seem to be better appreciated on the other side of the Atlantic and there is a reprint in this issue* of an article by an American member describing the type. I personally feel that such a boat should be at least 14 feet long, preferably more even if single handed and of course of comparatively small waterline beam compared with a conventional sailing dinghy. Again I can't tell you where to buy such a craft off the shelf, but there are designs available from such as Ian Oughtred and Phil Bolger.

You can be led to believe that you only have a choice of light multi-role dinghies or heavy or traditional types. I don't believe that there is as much difference between them as people think; certainly the light ones are not light. Nearly all manufacturer make GRP dinghies heavier than specification, and most class rules quote minimum weights. By the time you have put a moderate amount of gear on board they are weightier still. For example, I doubt that many non-racing Wayfarers go afloat at less than 550 lbs, probably much more, and are none the worse for it.

When choosing a dinghy one should make oneself aware of all the options. People often try to persuade you that the choice that they or some other person has made, will also be right for you: this is as true of dinghies as it is of washing machines, but it never ceases to anger me.

There is no certain way of choosing the right dinghy for you, certainly first time of buying. A Tideway may bore you, a Mirror 16 terrify you. People have cruised successfully in both. Being such a subjective choice - it's 'your' decision.

Held over through lack of space.