Having taken part in the Loch Creran rally for the first time in 1992, and had a thoroughly enjoyable week, we wanted to attempt something a little more adventurous for the 1993 rally. We decided to split the week between Creran and Arduaine, about 30 miles south down the coast, which we had visited in 1991, only shortly after taking up sailing. Our intention was to sail from Arduaine to Creran at the start of the week, joining the rally for a couple of days and returning to Arduaine at the end of the week. We also decided to hire a boom tent for our Wayfarer ‘Black Pig’, so that we would have the flexibility to overnight en route.

Friday 4th June. The week got off to a bad start courtesy of the Post Office. The tent which we hired from the Wayfarer Association comes as two parcels, the canvas in one and the poles in another. Unfortunately, the P.O. were not able to deliver the poles by Friday, even though the canvas, posted at the same time, arrived on Wednesday. So, hastily changing plans and packing our land tent instead, we set off for Scotland early on Friday evening, intending to drive through the night. However, during the next 24 hours, we were to be reminded that problems usually come in threes. The tent’s non-arrival was number one, so, did we but know it, we still had two to come.

Saturday 5th June. Problem number two arrived at about 2 am, 20 or so miles from Edinburgh on the A1. A wheel bearing on the boat trailer seized up bringing us to a sudden stop. We phoned the AA for help, but repairs took 8 hours due to the difficulty of finding a replacement bearing. It was our fault, really, as we had not greased the bearings this season. We will not make that mistake again! Eventually we got moving again at about 11 am and arrived at Arduaine in late afternoon, only six hours or so behind schedule.

We set up camp at the site on the shore of Loch Shuna, which is a wonderful spot with panoramic views across Lochs Shuna and Melfort to the islands of Shuna, Luing and Seil. This area has previously been described in articles by Peter Filshie and Roger Barnes, and we can confirm that it is a marvellous area for day-sailing in amongst the sounds and islands within only a few miles of the campsite. The site borders on the beach itself and there is a ramp down onto the shingle for launching. There are even half a dozen mooring buoys about 20 yards offshore which seem to be available for the use of campers and of which we made full use.

Having got our tent pitched and refreshed ourselves, we decided to launch Black Pig and have a short sail around the loch in the warm evening sunshine. After a gentle couple of hours sailing around some of the small islets in Loch Shuna, we returned to Arduaine, dropped sail and started to motor up to a buoy. This was the cue for problem number three to arrive. Our outboard motor immediately started to play up, constantly stalling and refusing to operate at any more than a tick-over. Despondently we paddled the boat ashore and tried to coax the engine into life, only succeeding however in breaking the shear pin which secured the prop to the drive shaft when the moving prop hit a large stone under the water. Eventually we gave up, realising that the motor needed professional attention. This was a serious setback as we did not want to attempt the passage to Loch Creran without the motor. Fortunately, about two miles from Arduaine is the yacht marina at Craobh Haven, where we hoped we might get our engine repaired quickly.

Sunday 6th June. Sunday dawned bright and sunny, and we arose early. After a breakfast of porridge in true Scots style we took our outboard to the marina and found the resident engineer who promised to repair it by Tuesday.

Returning to Arduaine, we decided on a daysail around Luing. We set off in Black Pig at about noon, heading south around the bottom tips of Shuna and Luing, before turning north into the Sound of Luing. The wind was SW2-3 and the weather was clear and sunny. We saw several yachts and dinghies as we passed Craobh Haven, and we decided to trail our fishing line, trying to catch mackerel for supper. Mary has always insisted that you only have to hang a hook over the back of the boat in these waters to have fish practically throw themselves onto it. However it never seems quite to work that way. In fact we have never caught a thing and this year was to be no different. Never mind; the anticipation of a possible catch seems to be just as enjoyable, even when all you ever catch is lumps of weed.

Crossing south of Shuna and Luing we kept close track of our position, as we had read in our pilot book of the large whirlpool which lies in the nearby Gulf of Corryvreckan and the strong tidal streams flowing through that area. We had no wish to be swept into anything like that, although in fact we did not get within several miles of it. We rounded the southern tip of Luing in a fresh breeze, but as we sailed up the Sound of Luing the wind gradually died and we were passed by a couple of yachts who had resorted to motoring. As we approached the northern end of Luing at about 2.30 pm, we encountered tidal eddies and overfalls of which our pilot had warned us. The sea looked like gently boiling soup with standing waves here and there. The eddies made steering a straight course difficult, but apart from this were no real problem. At this point we decided that we had time to cross over to Mull, which we could see hazily in the distance. So we set course for Loch Buie at the southern end of Mull. We quickly passed Bogha Rock, but the wind soon died to F1 and less and the sky became overcast. Our progress slowed to a crawl and by 4.30 pm we could only just make out Frank Lockwood’s Island against the background of Mull. Incidentally, how did this island, which is surrounded by unpronounceable Gaelic-named places, get such a name? Who is or was Frank Lockwood? Answers on a postcard please. Reluctantly we had to admit that we would not make Mull, and reversed our course, being worried that we would not get to Cuan Sound before the tide turned against us. This was our planned route home and if we could not get through, as we might not with the light wind and no motor, we would have a very long row home. Our recrossing of the Firth of Lorne was as slow as the outward leg, even with the spinnaker hoisted on a reach. We got to Cuan Sound at 7 pm and the tide was still with us as we had calculated. Indeed, even with the flood tide in its last hour, it pushed us through the sound very rapidly, passing more overfalls. Turning left into Seil Sound, passing Torsa island we had to resort to rowing, but this confirmed for us the theory that seals like rowing boats, as a head popped up about three boat lengths away. We also met our first dolphins, hearing them blowing before actually seeing them. At about 8 pm the wind picked up and we quickly sailed back to our camp site by 8.30 pm for a late campfire supper. A long but very enjoyable day in the boat, having sailed about 33 nM.

Monday 7th June. We decided on just a short sail today, hoping to get our motor back from the marina in the afternoon.

We set off at about 11.45 am to explore Loch Melfort. The wind was SW2 again but the sky was dull and cloudy with occasional spots of rain. We sailed right to the end of the loch, weaving between the yachts moored at the sailing club there, before going ashore halfway back for coffee, where we met a very friendly horse who showed interest in the boat. Arriving back at Arduaine at 3.15 pm, we moored the boat and went to collect our outboard. This appeared to be working fine on a test run around Asknish Bay in steadily increasing rain, so, encouraged by this, we spent the evening in the Loch Melfort Hotel, which is next to the camp site, having an excellent meal and planning the trip up to Loch Creran the following day.

Tuesday 8th June. Tuesday morning was taken up with checking the weather forecast, then striking our camp and loading the resulting mountain of gear into Black Pig. It was not until 11.45 am that we set sail towards Seil Sound in order to go through Cuan Sound the other way to Sunday. The forecast had suggested a S4 with cloud and drizzle, but it was more like S2 with low cloud but good visibility. We made rapid progress under full sail and had the spinnaker up on a run, planing at times. We entered Cuan Sound at 12.50 pm, a little early, as the tide had not quite turned in our favour. However, with the good wind behind us we had no trouble in getting through, despite having to dodge the car ferry between Seil and Luing which crosses the narrowest part of the sound — 2 cables — and who does not give way to sail.

Crossing Easdale Bay we headed northeast through the Sound of Insh on a training run with the spinnaker flying, admiring the marvellous scenery as we went by. As we headed for Kerrera, the wind gradually died until we were becalmed in sight of Gylen Castle, perched on a hill on that island. At this point we dropped the sails and motored up Kerrera Sound where a Viking fleet was defeated in 1263, reclaiming the Western Isles for Scotland. We arrived in the centre of Oban at 3.40 pm and stopped to shop for a few provisions, providing diversion for the tourists in the High Street by the harbour wall.

At 4.30 pm we left Oban and, having passed Maiden Island, we set course up the Lynn of Lorne passing east of several small islands. About 2 miles south of Loch Creran, the wind died again, and we motored the last leg into the loch, once again admiring the colourful jellyfish with which its waters seem to be infested. We eventually arrived at Creran Moorings at about 7 pm and met the rest of the DCA gang. The unloading and transporting to the camp site of our tent and other gear soon resembled a line of heavily loaded Sherpas ascending Everest. Thank you to all who helped us.

Wednesday 9th June. Today the DCA fleet planned to sail down the Lynn of Lorne to Oban for lunch and back. Having just sailed this stretch the day before and with all modesty claiming the fastest boat at the rally, we decided to go the long way, west of Lismore, believing we could still be in Oban for lunch or soon thereafter. Of course, the weather had other ideas. Leaving at 10.30 am it took 2 hours to sail out of the loch, which is not unusual at Creran. The wind was S1-2 whereas the forecast had been E/NE2-3. Outside the loch in the Lynn the tide was setting SW, which was great to sweep us down the west of Lismore, but meant we had to motor sail around the northern end of the island. The views across the Lynn of Morvern to the steeply rising mainland were stunning in bright sunlight. However the wind decided to die completely, and we were soon wallowing on an oily sea. By 3 pm we were no more than 2-3 miles down Lismore and we knew we were never going to get to Oban today. Therefore we decided to motor across to Morvern into Loch A’choire — or Loch Corrie. This is an impressive place, almost circular and surrounded by a ring of high hills off which the wind swirls down into and around the loch. It is because of these characteristics that Loch A’choire is named, this being Gaelic for ‘Cauldron’. We anchored past the salmon farm in the loch and after lunch had a nice walk around the headland and beach to the small village of Camasnacroise before heading home. The weather was sunny but still very little wind, so we motored most of the way home to arrive at 8.30 pm.

Thursday 10th June. Thursday was more or less a washout, the forecast of NE3-4 increasing to F6-7 being, for once, correct. We had a short sail up to the Creagan Narrows in Loch Creran, debating for a for a while whether to attempt to sail under the old railway bridge. Our chart gives its height as 12 metres, so we should have been OK, but it looked a lot less to us so we decided not to risk it. We have been vary wary of bridges since hitting one of Brunel’s more substantial structures rather hard with our mast on the River Camel in Cornwall. Returning to Creran Moorings, we spent the rest of a wet day chatting to the other DCA members before we all went for the group dinner that evening in North Connel.

Friday 11th June. Today was the day we planned to begin our return journey to Arduaine. Having accomplished the northward journey in one day, we hoped to take two days over the return with a diversion up the Sound of Mull, stopping in Loch Aline overnight. The forecast was for a variable 3, SE4 later. Actual conditions were NE2-3, which seemed a fair wind for a southward journey. However the elements were to change our plans for us later. We eventually got packed up by 11.00 am and we were escorted out of Loch Creran by the rest of the DCA fleet by 12.35 pm. We proceeded down the Lynn of Lorne at a brisk pace under working jib and main with one reef, reaching estimated speeds of 6-7 knots. Having made good time, we landed on the small island of Eileen Na Cloiche. This is a butterfly shaped island with a narrow isthmus joining the two ‘wings’. The exposed rocks and waters around the island were well populated with seals whom we observed as we ate our lunch. After a short stroll over to the other side of the island we prepared to continue our journey. The wind was on the increase and was about F4 now, so we added a second reef. We left at 2.10 pm and the wind immediately dropped to F1-2, causing us to shake out the second reef and eventually raise the spinnaker and we sped along for a time on a training run. Passing the southern end of Lismore we had to manoeuvre sharply to avoid two of the large ferries which operate from Oban which crossed our path from opposite directions.

Having a couple of hours until the tide turned in our favour into the Sound of Mull, we decided to visit Loch Don, on the southeast corner of that island. We entered the loch at 4.00 pm and dropped anchor for a cup of coffee. Loch Don was different from the others we had visited during the week. It is shallow and muddy and was surrounded by low flat land, looking, all in all, more like a river estuary. We left again at about 4.40 pm to find the wind freshening rapidly outside in the Firth. At this time the tide was still running SW and the wind was about NE4 rising, so we had to battle against both trying to regain and round Duart Point. During the next hour and a half we made very slow progress round the corner of Mull, by which time the wind had reached F6 and we were beating into 2-3 metre waves. We realised that the wind, as well as being generally from the NE, was funnelling from the NW down the Sound of Mull, so we would have no easier a ride if we managed to round the point. It was becoming obvious that to try to reach Loch Aline would be silly and dangerous, so we bore off the wind and set course for Oban. We sailed the six or seven miles to Oban under gloomy skies but now in reasonable comfort. Black Pig sailed very well in the conditions, but nevertheless we had shipped a lot of water from waves breaking over the bows by the time we picked up a visitors mooring in the calm of Oban harbour just after 7 pm. We spent another hour pumping out the water, which was 2 inches over the floorboards, and sorting our equipment, some of which had come adrift during the bumpy ride. We saw the maroons for the lifeboat go up twice during this time and we were thankful to be safely in harbour. A little later we were surprised to see the lifeboat return and escort Bob and Lynda Abbot’s Valiant 18 to the buoy next to us. We has last seen them at Creran that morning, leaving for a daysail. We paddled over and discovered that they had suffered a broken mast in the near gale outside. Finally, damp and a bit bedraggled, we went ashore and found a B & B for the night.

Saturday 11th June. Refreshed by a filling dinner at Oban’s Indian restaurant and a night in a comfortable bed, we resumed the journey home in the morning. The weather was bright and sunny with a N/NE3-4 wind. We slipped our buoy at 11.20 pm under jib and main with 2 reefs. We quickly emerged from Kerrera Sound and set course for Insh. Even under reduced sail we reached a speed of 8 knots and were surfing over the following waves, having to gybe very carefully now and then. We reached Cuan Sound again at 1.25 pm and passed a large motorised Gin-Palace coming the other way, whose big engines were making light of the tide flowing fast our way. Seil Sound and Loch Shuna were more sheltered and we sailed sedately back to Arduaine, stopping briefly in the anchorage at Ardinmar, arriving back at our car at 4 pm. After recovering the boat and packing up, we started the long journey home.

We both agreed we had had a great week’s sailing, despite our problems early on and the brush with heavy weather. We are now hooked on this sailing area and will certainly be returning to Scotland’s west coast again.

We estimate that we sailed about 180 nM during the week, using lmray chart C65 supplemented by the Ordnance Survey maps of the area. We got our tidal information from Reed’s Almanac, and Imray’s ‘The Yachtsman’s Pilot to the West Coast of Scotland’ was a constant source of useful information.