in the Express Pirate Lepe

This was the second part of my sabbatical sailing holiday in 1994. The first part when I was crewed by my daughter was described in the spring 1995 Bulletin. This also described the boat so the boat description is not repeated. The second part was with my son. Between the two cruises I had done my RYA Coastal Skipper practical course at the Plas Menai Sailing Watersports Centre which had been most enjoyable. Both my children are now working and so could only spare the odd week to sail with Dad but by chance in 1994 both weeks were excellent weather-wise on the west coast. I picked up my son at 0100 at Stockport station and we drove overnight up to Loch Creran and arrived in time for breakfast on Saturday 2 July. Jock dropped the boat into the water as the tide rose and we set off at about 1100 against the last of the flood wearing shorts.

The wind was easterly and so blowing off the land. After blowing out of the loch we reached down the Benderloch shore in a gentle breeze. As we cleared the headland at Rubha Fionn-aird the wind started increasing and soon we were beating into a short procession of grey waves with two reefs down and the genoa half rolled up. I wondered what I was doing after being up all night and not quite a year after heart surgery. Justin was quiet as we plugged along. Decided to enter Kerrera Sound to get out of the wind and hopefully anchor in Little Horse Shoe Bay out of the wind. In practice the wind bent round in the sound and was blowing straight into the chosen bay. We spotted a mooring buoy at Gallanach which seemed sheltered. Beat up to it under reefed genoa and found a substantial warp to tie up to.

Tidied up below and resolved to stay the night. Paid a £5 mooring fee to some young people who came out from the shore in an inflatable after ferrying some divers ashore so we assumed they were the owners of the buoy. Had a very comfortable night well worth the fee and felt reasonably recovered from our all night drive.

Sunday 3 July. Had a leisurely start waiting for the tide to start ebbing. Got too hot cooking breakfast. Underway at 1145 with the NE wind behind us. Sailed out of the sound with a stream, four in all but such is the west coast, of boats sailing in with the last of the tide. One was a beautiful varnished 45 foot cutter under all sail. We sailed on southwards to see where we could get to. We had six hours of tide with us so we hoped to get to the Garvellachs to see the beehive cells of the ninth century monastery. The wind was still warm and smelling of the land. By 1630 we were at anchored in the bay for the settlement on the Garvellachs having sailed 15.5 miles. Visited St Colomba’s Mother’s grave and the more modem buildings on the monastery site like the grain drying furnace as well as the beehive cells.

The forecast was still good so at 1830 we set off again for the SW tip of Mull. The visibility was about 10 miles due to the haze but we could get various transits which enabled us to check the compass. I had been convinced that the compass was not very accurate during a crossing of the Lynn of Lorn but now found it was reasonably accurate and that on the chart you were warned of magnetic anomalies in the Lynn of Lorn. So with new found confidence we proceeded. The wind fell very light so we motored for some of the time and brewed up tea. To our surprise the milk was going sour. An unheard of occurrence on the west coast. By 2300 we were approaching the mass of islands off the SW tip of Mull and decided discretion was the better part of valour on an unlit coast and approached Ardalanish Point as the light was failing. We managed to pick up the landmarks well described in the Imray Pilot and sailed into a rock-girt pool behind the point in company with two other boats to whom we chatted in the twilight. Anchored at 2345 and lay down in our clothes to wait for the light having sailed and motored 18 miles.

Monday 4 July. Set sail at 0615 and reached past the magnificent rocky scenery of the end of Mull till we opened up the Sound of Iona. At 0800 we tied up to the ferry slip. The island was magic before the visitors arrived. Took in the abbey and other sights. At 0945 the ferries started arriving so we left in a hurry making for Staffa. Blew along to Staffa but the weather was clouding over and as we approached Staffa we realised there was quite a swell running. Looked at Fingal’s Cave from a safe distance and carried on down the east side of Staffa in increasing rain. Saw our first puffins which we did not recognise at first because in the water only their black backs showed and not their white chests. In steady rain turned to western corner of Gometra and made into another sheltered anchorage with just enough water for us to float. Anchored and cooked up a big breakfast at 1300. Had sailed 19 miles with little sleep so went to sleep after the 1400 forecast.

In the evening rain cleared and we had a walk ashore. No sign of habitation or cultivation. There was a constant noise like machinery running in the distance. At last we realised that it was the roar of the surf on the south side of the island where the Atlantic swell was rolling in. Cooked another large meal — corn beef hash and steamed pudding. A heron was fishing in the pool not far from us as we sat at anchor. A seagull took over our rubber dinghy and was reluctant to move when we needed it.

Tuesday 5 July. Cooking breakfast 0920. Fine day forecast. Streamed log at 1020 making for Tobermory. Motored when the wind fell light to make sure we were the right side of the headland to be carried on with the tide. Every time the wind filled we tried to sail but once round Treshnish Point the wind really died. Sun bathed and then sheltered from the sun as it got too hot. Some boats seemed to have some wind but by the time they reached us they were drifting in circles. At 1600 we started the motor and proceeded at 4 knots for Tobermory. Nursed the last of the fuel holding the tank at an angle to suck up the last drop. Engine finally stopped as we reached the lighthouse by Calve Island. It appeared to have been running on air for the last 10 minutes. Refilled the tank for the last half mile and picked up a mooring close under the wooded cliffs at 1830. A total of 19.4 miles sailing, drifting and mainly motoring. Ashore for a meal at the Lochinvar Restaurant — grilled salmon and fried scallops. Justin beginning to come alive after the stress of getting away on holiday.

Wednesday 6 July. 1110 underway with full sail easterly wind. Beating down Sound of Mull dodging the tide on the mainland side. Once again the wind died down and after drifting for a bit we reluctantly started the motor at 1615. By 1700 a fluky wind appeared and we worked the wind shifts for three hours to arrive at Loch Aline by 2040 anchoring close in to the shore at the south end. Just stayed afloat at low water as predicted by my super accurate tidal calculations. We had managed 13.4 miles over the ground in 9 hours.

Thursday 7 July. Up at 0615 and left anchorage under oars so as not to disturb the other boats at anchor. The ebb swept us out of the loch and we picked up a slight breeze in the sound. Cooked breakfast underway. 1000 anchored by Duart Castle and went ashore to visit. Very good cakes in the castle teashop served by Australian McLeans who asked if we were from the little yacht in the bay. Decided to press on and try to get tea at the old schoolhouse on Lismore. 1245 we were close hauled under full sail making up the Sound of Morvern. The wind was off the island and just the right strength to get the lee rail under. The sun was shining and it was the sail of the season. Stayed away from the island as long as possible to avoid the wind shadow but eventually had to head into the bay by Castle Coeffin. Lay to two anchors to keep us off the rocks and hurried ashore to get tea. Sat in garden untroubled by midges and ate quiche and scones and jam. Justin definitely perked up after the input of food and proposed walking to the broch on the other side of the island. I was for getting to a safer anchorage so we set off back to the boat and sailed round to Port Ramsey by 1900 and anchored in 2.2m of water. 16.4 miles sailed in ideal conditions.

Friday 8 July. Had to wait till midday for the tide into Creran so we had the morning to spare. 0830 set off for Loch a’ Choire to visit our cottage where my cousin was staying. Another slow sail. Anchored at 1100 just as they were leaving driving their Discovery over the saltings to get to the road. We use a trolley which we drag over the fields to get to the house but my cousin’s wife did not like this so their new car was the Discovery and a whole new approach to living at South Corry. 1200 set off for Creran motoring out of loch and then sailing close hauled to the end of Lismore. Motored for the Creran entrance and were alongside at Barcaldine by 1500. Hot sun all day and a leisurely recovery of the boat before setting off for Stockport at 1830.

1994 was my most successful season on the west coast with two cruises of over 100 miles in some fabulous weather. Creran Moorings had provided a very good base for the boat which had been left there for half the summer being stored ashore in the boat park and launched and recovered using the tractor.