On Mud and Tides
The reference in the last Newsletter - No 152 -, to a very experienced DCA member spending many hours on the mud at a recent rally, together with Peter Bick's article on tides, draws attention to the very close relationship between tides and creek-crawling. For the benefit of those members who, for geographical or other reasons, are not familiar with the delights of creek-crawling, but who should try it, a few words might be helpful. Over the years I have pushed, pulled, motored and sailed several different types of boat up a variety of creeks, and have come to appreciate that for this strange pastime a minute study of tide and mud is necessary.
To augment the first of Bick's three points. Spring tides being the highest offer the best opportunities for creek-crawling. These occur once every fortnight with the full and new moons, this is the morning and evening in the Southwest, and at midday and midnight in the Southeast. So if you know the phases of the moon you can roughly plan when your expedition can take place, but you must consult the local tide tables for the details (the relevant page in the Macmillan Almanac can be photocopied in the local library, but don't tell them so), and check whether it is in UT (it used to be called GMT) or BST, adding an hour if necessary.
Approach the creek or river on a rising tide; how soon before high tide depends on the distance you have to sail to get to the highest point of navigation, and how much water there is when you get there (see the second of Bick's points and his fifth point). Usually there is very little water, but what there is should stand for at least an hour, so there is usually enough time for a bit of a forage ashore; but seldom enough to navigate more that one substantial creek on each tide. The Solent area, including Poole and Chichester harbours is more helpful in that the tides in effect stand for quite a while - up to four hours in places. Approaching with the flood tide also has the advantage that it carries one up the river, ensuring reasonable progress whatever the wind is doing, and the ebb will carry one down again afterwards.
The deep channels in most creeks, especially here in the Southwest are narrow, so the earlier one starts the better one can see their winding courses on the way up and hopefully remember them on the way down. Sailing usually becomes difficult well before the river is reduced to a rural trout stream; so recourse to oars or outboard motor is normal for quite a large part of the way. This is helpful in that one can concentrate more on the ticklish business of finding the channel, which in the smaller creeks can be unbelievably tortuous. One trick is to row with deep strokes so that one can alter course away from that side on which the oar touches the mud, and so on.
When using an outboard it is helpful to stand up for a better view of the way ahead, for even in the almost opaque muddy waters some signs are visible; it might be slight darkening of the water, or tips of grass showing in places, or a slight current pushing the scum along the channel. Sculling with a single oar is also a boon as it allows standing up, facing forward and propelling the boat along channels too narrow for rowing - and it usually draws favourable comments from anyone who sees you doing it! And all the time the tide is rising, so if you do run on the mud, it is but a moments wait till you float off again. Having enjoyed the pleasure of reaching the head of navigation, which may be far from the sign or sound of man, or perhaps within reach of a refreshing jar at the pub, it is time to retrace your course. There is usually no problem as you apply the same principles as going the other way, with the advantage that you probably remember the way you came. But things can go wrong; so don't go too fast and if you do stick don't try to force on hoping to get clear, go back to the clear water - the channel is there somewhere. A part lowered centreboard is a useful warning, it helps to stop the boat before it gets too far on and can easily be pulled up to free you. But usually it is a push off with an oar that does it, but not too hard a push or the mud may take hold of an oar, and all sorts of complications may set in.
The Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 maps seem to be very accurate at showing the channels, much better than the marine charts. But make sure that they are the recent Pathfinder series; I have a Truro sheet of the first series printed in 1958 that was derived from a 906 survey which, not surprisingly contains many anachronisms! Further down the river in the larger areas of water and flatter bottom it is easy to be far from the channel and not know where to find it; in less frequented areas its is seldom marked even with perches (sticks). Restronguet Creek here at Falmouth is a good example.
You should use all the centreboard as a depth sounder, and hope you don't run up a blind channel while looking for the real one on a fast falling tide. Even then you should still be able to turn round and find your way out, with oars if necessary. In the worst state, with only a few inches of water all round you, you can get out and push the boat. Most half-tide mud is actually firm enough to do this, especially if you support yourself carefully on the boat while pushing. But it is certainly hazardous and should be undertaken with great care and avoided if at all possible, not least because of the mess involved. The channel itself usually has a hard gravel bottom so you can walk down it pulling the boat if the water gets that low.
Creek crawling is one of the most satisfying ways of cruising as many of you know, but it is very important to 'think tides' and 'think mud'. Even if you do get it wrong though, the worst that can happen is that you have a long wait somewhere; but it is probably rather a nice, if lonely place.