or ‘Adventures with Edwin’

Two years ago after a North-west AGM at Elton, I’d offered to crew for Edwin Dewhirst in Sabine, his 18 foot Seagull, with self draining cockpit.

Edwin proposed to sail from Beaumaris, on the Menai Straits, to the Isle of Man, accompanying a somewhat nervous chap, who while owning his own 21’ boat, hadn’t made a passage out of sight of land before. I was hooked by the optional extra of going to Ireland if the weather was OK, or alternatively returning with the other boat if Edwin and I failed to get on. An account of what happened follows.

Wednesday 6th August

We drove up to Menai Bridge, then on to the Cadnant River where Sabine was secured by three anchors in a sheltered mud-hole. I helped raise and clean two of them, then drove Edwin’s car to Gallows Point to meet Chris and Pete while Edwin sailed up. Later Tony Nield joined us and we planned to start at 4am (HW Liverpool +2 hours) and sail in company to Puffin Sound, then make our own ways to Port St Mary. Tony was undecided.

Thursday 7th August — 55 nms

At 2.30am a stiff NE wind made the mooring too uncomfortable for sleep, so we got up early and made final preparation. I took two Stugeron, for the first time ever as I thought I might be sick — I had the sweats instead. The wind was ‘on the nose’. The outboard fired reluctantly and then cut out just as we reached deep water in the channel. Edwin changed plugs but she wouldn’t run slowly. Chris was under way and waited for us. Tony’s cabin light was on but he didn’t respond to the VHF. Apparently he had set out but ran into various problems and turned back. The outboard started but ran at half throttle so off we went, following the lit buoys and watching the echo sounder when the lights were out. Wind against tide made it quite rough and I began to have regrets, but on emerging from Puffin Sound dawn was breaking and the sea moderated, so the trip was on. We trimmed our sails and watched Chris’s Parker 21 accelerate away from us. We had a thirteen hour fetch on starboard tack all the way for Port St Mary, following a lazy ‘S’ course as the ebb set us west, then the flood set us east across Liverpool Bay. The weather steadily improved with warm sun and sparkly seas and although I had problems with the breakfast toast and coffee, I was eager for the bacon butty at 12.30pm. Our first leg became ‘a fine day’s sailing’. We rafted up inside the outer wall and soon encountered Chris and Pete who had arrived two and a half hours earlier and were inside the inner harbour. The outer harbour gave us a wonderfully quiet night as the planes into Ronaldsway stopped quite early. We were welcomed at the I.O.M.Y.C. and Chris was very happy — no longer a virgin sailor. It had taken us 15 hours.

Friday 8th August — 15 nms

A fine day with a late start for Peel, inshore via the cliffs on Spanish Head. This to beat the foul tide, see the birds and Calf Sound where a film crew were shooting a simulated tropical scene with artificial palm trees! The wind was light and we spent more time motoring until the wind returned north of Marbyl Point and Contrary Head. Peel’s outer wall is a long walk from town, so we anchored near the beach, watching the children playing at the water’s edge as they probably did, even when the Vikings landed. I phoned a Manx friend, John Dowling, whom I’d met there on my Wayfarer trip; then we set off to climb Contrary Head and see Corrins Tower at close quarters. We got back just in time to save the inflatable from a semi-drunk stag party who’d arrived packed into a sheep truck. One or two barks from Edwin soon made one pair of twenty-somethings change their minds and put the dinghy back. Edwin seemed eager to pursue them and about twenty of their mates along the narrow groyne, so I counselled restraint and forgiveness and we retired to Peel YC for a pint and chat.

Saturday 9th August — 33 nms

More fine weather and another fetch took us to Gun’s Island where the southerly ebb from Strangford carried us down to our intended destination — the small marina at Ardglass, an excellent jumping-off point for getting into Strangford Lough itself. No reply on VHF, but a marina official spotted our arrival and met us in good time. Ashore we briefly visited the adjacent, very smelly, dock, misnamed ‘God’s Pocket’. Then we found the Old Commercial Hotel, highly recommended by two young lads who’d spotted the Mir space station moments before we encountered them. They earnestly engaged us on the topic of Ardglass as a mixed community and the absence of sectarianism.

Sunday 10th August — 20 nms

A lovely coastal cruise north past Gun’s Island, then inside St Patrick’s Rocks to the channel between Angus Rock and Pladdy Lug, passing Kilchief Castle to port and a whirlpool, the Routen Wheel, to starboard. The ferry from Portaferry to Strangford looked just like the Kyle of Lochalsh to Kyleakin ferries. The whole place gleamed in crisp sunshine as we headed for a lunch-time mooring by Audley’s Castle. Here we went ashore, visited the castle and fell in with a family picnic.

After this second lunch we motored and sailed north past Limestone Rock, then past numerous reefs (‘pladdies’), perches and islets to Ringhaddy Conly Island and Sketrick Island where Down Cruising Club is based in a former lightship. Edwin was hoping to buy a replacement genoa from the local sailmaker, from whom he’d bought an excellent mainsail in May.

Monday 11th August —2 nms

We sailed east toward Bird Island then southwest to Island Taggart for lunch. I must say, at this point that Edwin’s meals were first class with fresh ingredients, home made bread (at first), cake, yoghurt and home-brewed beer. Moreover, with two pressure cookers and an excellent grill, he could knock up a wide range of meals in next to no time. A culinary tip from Edwin — fry a little onion with your mushrooms to bring out their flavour.

After lunch we anchored at Killyleagh to look for my friend Tom McAdam. We did eventually find him and later, Jim and his son Tom drove to East Down SC and met us in their Wayfarer to take us to the pontoon. We just had time to meet a couple of club officers and wash before they drove us home for an excellent meal followed by a trip to their favourite pub — the Dufferin Arms. Jim and Sally had wonderful tales to tell, including their return from the Falklands by Land Rover via Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Brazil in the late 70s. Killyleagh and the McAdam family were the highlight of the trip for me. Killyleagh is so uncommercialised that I could not find any shop which sold picture postcards.

Tuesday 12th August — 12 nms

Back to the sailmakers on Sketrick Island, but he had no suitable genoas. We visited the local castle and Daft Eddie’s restaurant. We spent the next few fine hours beating southwards towards a totally enclosed bay on the southeast side of the lough, which Jim had recommended. He’d mentioned the sill in the entrance and that it was well-covered after half-tide. He also mentioned that the tide poured out like a river, but Edwin hadn’t heard this and, as we were entering, I was preoccupied with depth, as you have to be in Strangford. We entered the Dorn cautiously, about two hours before HW. I stood on the bow looking for shallows as we nosed in. I saw a swirl off to port and warned Edwin, then suddenly as we hesitated we were caught in a fast-flowing, irresistible ‘river’, hit a rock, turned broadside on and stuck fast. My reaction was to drop anchor and wait for the tide to rise. Edwin’s was to start scraping the carrots and potatoes ready for dinner. I’ve never seen such authentic sang froid. I was impressed. Fifteen minutes later as we ate our dinner the boat lifted and swung on its anchor. Another hour and we calmly cruised in, went ashore and visited the nearby chapel ruin and castle hill. Finally Edwin capped it by exploring a shallow lagoon south of our own, using the echo sounder — nerves of steel.

Wednesday 13th August — 8 nms

Damp and misty — poor visibility, no wind, occasional rain. We came out through the Dorn at HW and headed under motor for Dunnyneill Islands, the westerly islet being high, wooded and prominent, in marked contrast to most in Strangford. We went ashore, explored both then headed for Portaferry to shop for petrol (500 yards walk), postcards, etc. Later we crossed to the smaller, prettier and sunlit anchorage of Strangford Creek, where again several youngsters were having a grand time at the water’s edge. We found a path, had a good walk, which included signs of badgers, then had a pint of Bass in a local pub. We talked about holding a DCA meeting here.

Thursday 14th August — 36 nms

An early start, one hour before HW, in crisp sunshine. We sailed out past Angus Rock, then began to beat south past Ardglass. Although the tidal atlas shows the area as ‘slack’ at all stages, we met some lumpy bits as we beat past St Johns Head, Annalong and Kilkeel. A Dutch boat followed us into Carlingford. The channel is exceptionally well buoyed. No doubt this is because the international border is close and the army’s supplies arrive daily by ship. The Dutchman turned into Greenore by mistake, so we returned and guided him across the sandbanks to the pretty harbour of Carlingford town — much nicer than the marina up the lough. Dundalk SC, which is at Carlingford, offered water, WC’s, showers and a voracious phone. Normal rate for phone calls home from Eire is 19 seconds for 20p and call boxes are likely to be vandalised.

Friday 15th August

Warm rain as we shopped and explored some of the many castle ruins. Edwin climbed Carlingford Hill while I lazed and caught up on my lost sleep. Claas invited us aboard Heertjesz, his 35’ sloop, and showed us his itinerary on the screen of his lap-top computer connected to his hand-held GPS. He’d been touring round Scotland and was particularly impressed by the Victorian gents at Rothesay!

Saturday 16th August — 52 nms

SE wind, so headed for Peel instead of forcing our way south. A fine fast fetch cleared chicken rock and we made Port St Mary in nine hours. We’d started hard on the wind, but later found we could round the south of the island; sea birds for company.

Sunday 17th August — 3.5 nms

The Earl of Pembroke, a fine square rigger, came in and the mystery of Calf Sound was solved — they’re remaking Treasure Island with 82 year old Jack Palance as Long John Silver. I can’t wait to hear his Bristol accent! Little wind, but our inshore route to Scarlett Point enabled us to keep up with the racers stemming the foul tide further out. We then sailed 60° to clear the rocks in Castletown Bay. Blistering hot in the inner harbour by Irish Quay, but a starry night.

Monday 18th August — 45 nms

Afloat at 8.30am and en route by 8.45 in very clear but still conditions. Forecast was variable becoming SE2,so we headed for Holyhead as the shortest distance to motor in preference to Knott End. Plenty of gannets, guillemots and even a few puffins en route. Black Combe (Cumbria) visible. IoM was still visible from 40 miles south. The ESE wind arrived at The Skerries and we had a fine sail to the old harbour, where I had a hot half mile walk to the station and my awaiting train. Again we’d made it in nine hours and I only had a five minute wait before the train pulled out. I last saw Edwin heading for the YC moorings, if still free, and planning to meet several fellow sailors in the straits over the Bank Holiday Weekend. I have him and the fine weather to thank for a great sailing experience.