Although downplayed by every pilot book or Yottie magazine I’ve ever read the Tyne can offer the dinghy sailor an interesting short cruise. The length of navigable river is about 18nm.

There is plenty to see: Catherine Cookson country, the village of Tynemouth and the lively seaport town of South Shields. Wallsend offers Roman archaeology of international importance and of course there is the City of Newcastle for Georgian architecture, a modern and stylish waterfront, Turbinia — of Charles Parsons genius, and what is said to be the best nightlife in the country (just to watch the latter from a safe distance is incredible).

As dinghy sailors to the port are still ‘unusual’ you will not be harassed for payment by the harbour authority, you are regarded as small fry and not worth the bother, the cutters will leave you to your business. Only if you manage to find the harbourmaster’s office and demand to pay will you be charged dues. The marinas however will charge but offer security.

The tidal Tyne is used by commercial traffic from the entrance to Newcastle swing bridge, a distance of 10nm. It is the biggest ship-repair port in the country. You must keep clear of traffic! The lower Tyne is heavily industrialised and frequently unsightly although not uninteresting. There are many cargo and passenger handling quays. Upstream from Newcastle to Newburn, a further (6nm) the river is unattractive as it passes ‘regenerated’ industrial land. Once above Newburn Bridge the river changes its character completely and becomes pleasant and rural for the last 2nm to the tidal limit. The freshwater Tyne is a fine salmon river.

The Tyne is safe to enter in all weathers but given onshore swell and an ebbing tide small craft are at risk. Recently a forty three foot round-the-world yacht was knocked down in such circumstances, tragically losing two crew! In these conditions wait for the flood and if either of the piers is more ‘windward’ then tuck in fairly close when entering, keeping well away from the lee pier which will throw back dangerous rebounding waves. The tides will run at up to 3.0 kt. Another characteristic of the river is that the wind is often deflected into the ‘canyon’ of the river giving head or tail winds regardless of the prevailing wind at the time. Above Newcastle powerboat racing sometimes takes place off Derwent Haugh Marina in a special marshalled section and waterskiing is carried out further upstream in another special section at Newburn. Apart from these sections a 6 kt speed limit applies. Jet ski riders who will not comply with the regs will be chased by the latest cutter which is capable of 27 knots!

If only staying in Entrance Reach for a short rest the dinghy cruiser will find the beach at Priors Haven, just inside the North Pier suitable except in onshore winds when swell makes this untenable. The final approach should be with care to avoid rock ledges at LW. It is the home of Tynemouth SC and a short pleasant walk takes you to the lovely village of Tynemouth with all facilities. The castle and priory are open to visitors.

Alternatively, Herd Sand beach, at the landward end of the South Pier is free of rock but susceptible to onshore swell and holidaymakers. It is possible to anchor off the beach safely away from the shipping channel with good holding but rig a trip line as there are foul spots.

Still in Entrance Reach and just above Herd Groyne is the small beach of the South Wave Trap with a slipway used by South Shields SC. This beach has some large stones and is affected by onshore swell as well as wash from commercial traffic. Visit the club near HW but it is not advisable to lie here.

To port in Shields Harbour Reach (2.0nm from Piers) is the pontoon at Milldam. Land at the quay and ask for the pontoon gate key at the Seaman’s Mission. This pontoon gives access not just to the historic and picturesque Milldam area (à la Catherine Cookson) with its restored Custom House but also to the town of South Shields. Visiting sailors have enjoyed the facilities for centuries and still do. I’m told that this place has everything a sailor needs. Visit Ocean Road for restaurants giving excellent value for money. At the end of this road is an historic lifeboat on display. The town’s small museum is highly recommended for the Cookson display and the history of the Port of Tyne. You might visit Arbeia the supply depot to the Roman Wall. The pubs are many and the nightlife is wild in the town centre — if you like that sort of thing. But you may feel you would like to patronise the bar at the Mission — you will be made welcome.

To starboard in Shields Harbour Reach lies the entrance to Royal Quays Marina. The lock is automatic, you must obey the traffic lights. It can operate at all states of tide, there being plenty of depth even at LW. A handy local shop for limited provisions is in the housing development to the north of the marina, just 5 minutes away. Wet ‘n’ Wild is an experience — as if you haven’t already had enough out at sea! A modern shopping mall exists locally but sadly without a supermarket. Tyneside Metro system is frequent, reliable and cheap, the station is about 15 mins walk from the marina.

Off Long Reach on the north bank lies the entrance to Willington Gut (4.5nm from Piers) where Willington Quay Boat Club has visitor pontoons which dry out on mud and offer complete shelter and safety. One pontoon connects with the shore. Temporarily moor there and enquire at the club where to lie. The club has few facilities (no bar). Wallsend (1.5 miles) has all facilities. This is the closest you’ll get to the Roman garrison fort of Segedunum, the eastern end of the wall.

Another 4nm upstream on the south side of Felling Reach is Friars Goose Marina. Note, this is not a marina, more a yacht and motor boat club. It is friendly and it is likely you will be allowed to either use a river mooring, the dinghy pontoon, or dry out against the wall or slipway. The club bar is friendly but smoky! No bus, trains or shops within short walk.

Almost opposite on the north bank lies St Peters Marina with showers, 24hr security, petrol, water. Bus or walk a mile-and-a-half to the city centre.

The Ouseburn Watersports Assn lies at the entrance to the Ouseburn (0.6nm before the Swing Bridge). Land at the pontoon and ask for permission to stay. If wishing to visit Newcastle then it would be best to ask a club member who may be aboard craft moored in the entrance to keep an eye open for you while the boat is unattended as this is a somewhat ‘dodgy’ area. The walk from here to Newcastle is along the promenade, once a very busy quay. The waterfront restoration is an impressive blend of old and new.

Step back in time to the early industrial revolution and row/motor up the Ouseburn with mast lowered. The burn winds for 0.3nm between warehouses to a slipway where club members repair their motor boats and on a little further to a footbridge next to a second slipway which marks the limit of navigation. Given a height of 4.1m tide or more there is enough water to reach this point. Cups of tea are available at the adjacent Urban Farm and good beer at The Ship at the top of the slipway. Do not leave your craft unattended for long! Newcastle Quay is vast, it has 28 berths and is unsuitable for small craft except at a fine pontoon operated by Nationwide Facilities Services tel 0191 221 1363. Find the security office and pay 33p/ft per night to lie. Toilets and water only. The security staff will be on duty 24hrs. A worry will be from tideborne timber. If going ashore here walk beyond the Swing Bridge and visit The Cooperage. This timber framed pub is fantastic, the oldest secular building in toon, with origins in 1300s. It is thought that the original timbers were salvage, presumably from a shipbreaker and the Dutch bricks were probably ballast. It has an excellent choice of beer too!

There is a nearby Maritime Museum to visit which is not much to write home about but the Turbinia is on display at the Discovery Museum along with other maritime exhibits. In my opinion the Discovery is much the better visit of the two.

The only low bridge in Newcastle to worry about is the Swing Bridge with 4.6m min clearance. Upstream from here the river is no longer dredged and mud now extends from much of both banks at low water. It is plain sailing for the next three miles. On the south bank you will pass the massive wooden structure of Dunston Staiths (I once used the staith to effect a mast head repair). You will then see the Metro Centre and just before the next group of three bridges is Derwent Haugh ‘Marina’ with a slipway but no facilities. This marina specialises in power boating and well regulated races are staged on a course in this stretch of river. If you require passage then a waterborne marshal will approach and guide you through when safe. On the north bank you will see Vickers tank factory.

Scotswood (7.6m), Scotswood Rly (6.4m) and Blaydon Bridges (12.5m) can be treated as one as they are closely grouped.

Just upstream of Blaydon bridge on the north bank in a muddy backwater is the shabby but friendly Bells Close YC. With permission it is possible to lie for a night afloat on a mooring, against the wall or on the slipway above the mud. Approach only near HW as the short meandering creek known as Lemington Gut is not marked. There are no facilities apart from water. The gate to the road will be locked almost permanently for security reasons. A creek crawler with lowered mast could manage to reach Lemington at HW, the old staithes are derelict but there is a glass kiln marked by a very large conical brick structure. This Gut was the main river course before the Tyne Improvement Commission re-routed the river in the 1860s.

Apart from at LW it is possible to land at Blaydon Quay, the main shopping area is only a short walk away with all facilities.

After passing under Newburn Bridge (clearance 6.1m) you are in the final 2.8nm and rather pretty section of navigable Tyne. The muddy river bottom gives way to sand but if choosing a spot to dry out look out for large stones.

To the south is the attractive old village of Ryton, complete with pubs on the green. Further up is the largely unaltered ex-pit village of Clara Vale. The war memorial has a horrifyingly large list of names for such a small place. On the north side is George Stephenson’s birthplace, a cottage now owned by the National Trust on the waggonway. This point is about the practical limit to small boat navigation but 0.5nm further is the attractive village of Wylam, a highly recommended walk.

The author’s Dockrell 17 is moored in the Royal Quays Marina during the winter months, the summer mooring is on the river Coquet at Amble, Northumberland. For the latest info on the port, launching sites, safe parking etc. phone the author on 0191 258 1995.