The islands are an erosion-resistant outcrop of basalt off the Northumberland coast. The group consists of 14 sizeable islands and numerous rocks, some of these are seen only at low water. To give an idea of scale seven miles would complete a circumnavigation of them all. The islands, a nature reserve of the National Trust have no facilities and landing is allowed only on Inner Farne and Staple Island for a small fee. The attractions are the birds (over seventeen species of seabirds breed regularly), the seals and the solitude. Images of the rugged islands and the clamour of thousands of bickering seabirds will long stay in the visitor's memory.

Visiting sailors must be self-sufficient and have a common-sense attitude, this is no place to take liberties with. You must be able to navigate in poor visibility and carry a surplus of water and provisions. Inshore weather forecasts should not be missed especially if you are staying overnight. Swell can be a problem and if the wind is between north-west and south-east swell will form. Swell from the north originates hundreds of miles away and may not diminish for two or more days after the wind has changed. You should also be aware of fog associated with high pressure systems that bring in air over the North Sea.

The islands are divided into two groups separated by Staple Sound. Each group has a lighthouse, the light on Inner Farne marks the inshore passage known as Inner Sound which is sometimes used by coasters, and the other more powerful light is on Longstone. Currents can be strong and tide rips off Longstone can be hazardous. In settled weather the islands can be approached closely as there is usually deep water close in. Underwater rocks will disturb the moving water and the experienced sailor will note these clues to their presence. The dinghy sailor may navigate through most gaps between the islands if (s)he has flat conditions and the nerve. Kelp fronds rise toward the surface in the crystal clear water. The careful sailor may pass through these areas at dead slow speed, prodding for bottom with the boathook. Mature kelp will be anchored up to 3.5m below. The area attracts skin-divers, they come from Seahouses in rigid inflatables. One told me that the Atlantic Grey seals would follow him about and nibble his fins! You are unlikely to see newborn pups as they arrive in November but you should see some young from last year.

There are several anchorages to choose from depending on the weather, all are within the inner group of islands. The most secure is The Kettle although even this can be bumpy at high water when The Bridge covers. Kelp can foul your anchor but in daylight the bottom can normally be seen and you can place the hook on a sandy patch. The only place I’ve seen a yacht is in The Kettle. The two moorings there are laid for tripper boats out from Seahouses waiting to return visitors from Inner Farne.

Seahouses 2NM to the south is a good place for provisions, Post Office and restaurants etc. The harbourmaster will not usually charge if you are in for just an hour or two. This is a lively town with a small harbour. In complete contrast Budle Bay 3NM to the west is a shallow sandy inlet, only accessible at near HW with a flat sea. It is another nature reserve with no facilities and a very peaceful night can be had dried out in Ross Low (the north‑west corner).

Holy Island (Lindisfarne) is the best starting point for access to the islands. See Bulletin No. 163 for detailed information. If conditions prevent the 6NM passage to the islands then you have excellent sheltered sailing to fall back on.

If this pilot generates serious interest it could become a DCA cruise for summer 2000. Contact me on 0191 258 1995 or ed_wingfield@yahoo.co.uk

For more facts visit the Northumbria Tourist Board website.