Jacana is a 14ft Wanderer dinghy with a steel plate. My racing days are over. Last year we sailed on the Boden See — hot, little wind and a long drive through France and Switzerland. So this year a longer ferry journey and a shorter drive to Lake Vanern. ‘Short sharp seas as characteristic as they are of the Zuyder Zee’(1). ‘It was the freshwater sea which gave us the trouble. It had a fetch of 30 miles from the SW and was very short and sharp.’(2).

Lake Vanern is to be respected. It is about 80 miles N to S and about 50 miles across. There are 25,000 islands ranging from little islets to 62 sq km. I had not realised that this inland sea was relatively shallow. The ferry had been booked from Newcastle to Goteborg (expensive even out of season). We were going. An introduction by Ralph Roberts (Wayfarer Association) to Erling Geday, a previous Wayfarer owner living on the west coast of Sweden two hours drive north of Goteborg, resulted in much helpful advice and an invitation to stay at the start of our cruise. The coast north from Goteborg to Oslo has a chain of islands (large and small) lying offshore. There are harbours all the way up (3). Erling suggested that is where we should sail. It seemed a good idea. There is not a vast choice in accommodation along the coast. I had a Youth Hostel guide (4). There was a hostel at Grebbestad (£22 per night for our 4-bedded room) about 20 miles north on the coast. Large marina there.

Next morning the rain of the night increased. With reluctance (guests can easily overstay a welcome) we spent the morning inside and as the rain eased headed north after too big a lunch. We stopped for an ice-cream at a small harbour in sunshine and reached the hostel at 4pm, just as Bertil was hoisting the flag to open it for the day. The building is situated on the coast road on the harbour side in Grebbestad. The marina lay behind us. There was a problem. The only ramp was in a state of disrepair. A yachtsman told us that 3 km back up the road was Tanumstrand. We found a hotel alongside an empty harbour with jetties fitted with electric points. Beyond was another half-filled with small motor boats and dinghies and nearby a ramp down which we were given permission to launch and moor-up in the main harbour at no cost as the high season was over a week away.

On Friday we rigged and launched. Taking lunch with us, we were sailing south by 1.30pm (wind Force 2/3 from the south-east). We had charts lent to us by Erling. We wended our way through the islands, seeing the ‘true sea’ beyond the outer line. There was one about ¼ mile long with three tall cairns on its top that we sailed towards as the sky darkened to the south. Rain was falling over the land and we could hear thunder. When we saw lightning we turned and ran homewards. Jacana was along the jetty when the rain came. It was minimal and was followed by a flat calm. We had not yet had lunch, so we walked round the rocky coast, on a wooden pathway fitted on outriggers, to a small secluded beach. Looking out we could see the islands large and small. Hard rock, minimal vegetation, no beaches, occasional coves and rising a few feet to a 100 feet or so. Later I counted 34 in a two mile stretch on the chart in our area. (Log talks of ‘vicious gusts on our return sail’ — I can’t remember it.)

Grebbestad is an old fishing village now dependant on the boaters coming in the summer for its livelihood. Result: good restaurants. So we ate out most evenings though the cooking and other facilities in the hostel were excellent. Saturday : feeling of gloom — day overcast, no sun, no wind, no weather forecast. Went to Tanumstrand and talked to a canoe instructor. He was optimistic — weather clearing, wind 3.5 metres/sec (approx Force 3), no rain. So we went to Jacana and found a large Norwegian yacht had come in during the evening. Three very jolly men drinking schnapps who watched us rig and set off north with the wind (F3) off the land. Flat sea. Delightful sailing into the narrow inlet leading to Grebbestad and out again to follow the Norwegians between the islands on the main channel, well-marked with large black squares with white inserts painted on rock faces on appropriate islands. Rather like following a waymarked path in the Alps. We aimed to have lunch ashore, but could find no beach only rock, so we hove to in an area clear of hidden rocks, islets and small islands and enjoyed the peace and quiet. Four Norwegian motor cruisers had roared south by us in the morning, but there had been no other sightings.

After lunch we headed south and went outside Otteron, a large island, lying south of Grebbestad. We looked into a deep sheltered anchorage on the west side of Otteron marked on the chart — no use for a Wanderer. We rounded the end and felt our way through some narrows till we saw the island with the three cairns and headed north in a failing wind (tides are minimal here). The new 2 HP, 4 stroke Honda o/b engine started first time and brought the last few yards into the jetty. A marvellous day.

A good evening meal at Havensund (a harbour about 8 miles north) sheltered from all winds, but nowhere for us to stay. Erling was right. It was better to sail out and explore and return to base. A different type of cruising to what we were used to.

Sunday: It rained heavily in the night and continued till about 3pm. We visited Jacana and bailed out the cover which I had not hitched up the evening before. Then we went inland by car and spent time looking at rock carvings and viewing exhibitions in the Vitlicke Museum.

Monday: High stratus, small cumulus, some cirrus, sun, blue sky, F3 west. Away by 11am heading south through the islands. Rather more careful than the first day with our chart work as we touched a rock shortly after leaving Tanumstrand sailing between two islands. On past the cairn island and into a small perfectly enclosed harbour — Kampervik. Reached in and tacked out through the narrow entrance without mishap. Very embarrassing if we had missed a tack and hit the cliffs rising steeply on either side of the entrance. We sailed out to the isle of Musson, found a sandy beach on the lee side, landed and had lunch in the warm sun. Checked our position by GPS and relaxed. Wind swung to the south and increased to F4. I did not tell Mary that my plan had been to sail round Musson, but suggested that we sail south a wee while and then wend our way back a different way through inner islands. We did and were impressed with our speed on the way home — furled the jib. One yacht came up from the south without sails up and we followed a short while, but then tucked nearer into the mainland to explore different inlets and islets. We came back to a jetty in fine style, rounded up, and hit the wood on top of the jetty. Loaded up Jacana and drove back to Grebbestad.

Tuesday: A windy bright day, odd white horses with the westerly wind as we turned inland. Uncrowded roads as we drove into Dalsland from Bohuslan (area names) and went SE to Sunnana situated on the west side of the lake. A small harbour, friendly harbourmaster and wife, easy to launch and moor alongside an empty jetty. We found a super campsite with cabins. We feel we are too old to be camping. We booked in for five nights in a cabin (£20 per night).

Wednesday: Overcast, cool, F3, WSW — away by 11am (warming up). Narrow channel through rocks and small islands to pass marked with posts, withies, and buoys. No problem as wind behind us. Sailed out to east and south towards point (Hjortens udde). Tacked in towards shore to find beach, but all marshy or thick tree line. Dropped new lightweight Fortress anchor in bay near shore. Held at once. Leisurely lunch. Wind increased to F4 — fast run homewards. Difficulty sighting Sunnana. Located by large wind pump to S. Not possible to sail in through channel against wind but ‘Honey’ Honda had an easy time. Now becoming hot in shelter of harbour. Time for beer and a talk with Mrs HM.

Thursday: A day of ‘does and don’ts’. Windy and sunny on camp site — reefing weather. Sea flat through trees viewed from our cabin. 11am at Sunnana — overcast and windy. Swedes tell Mary rain coming. Organise Jacana with small jib and reefed main. Don’t like look of it out there. Have lunch in car out of wind, watching tree sparrows and pied flycatchers. Sky clearing — no rain — really have to sail. Run out of Sunnana in F4/5 to outer buoy and turn north. Enjoy(?) 45 minutes of sailing up and down coast — convinced myself that I can still tack and jibe when I want to and that Jacana is not in the least bothered by a bouncy sea or for that matter Mary. Suggest that we might go back in. Agreed. Sail back to outer channel buoy about ¾ mile off entrance. Start ‘Honey’ first time of course. Drop sails and motor in. ‘Honey’ has a centrifugal prop — which means that once started she can be throttled right back and the prop no longer rotates. No longer starting the engine and away we go — very civilised.

Had a late afternoon walk on a nature trail in the woodland. Wind in the tops, none to disturb us below — hot and humid. Talk to two young Swedes who have brought a sleek 24 ft yacht in from the south whilst we were walking. They say wind tomorrow 5‑9 metres/sec (F4-7). Have evening meal in Mellerud in Thai-style restaurant owned by Scot who reinforces all the comments we have heard about the weather in June in western Sweden. ‘Unstable weather systems, instability is to be expected. The Swedes and Norwegians sail in July. Not yet time for the two weather systems to settle (Atlantic and Continental).’

Friday: 3.40am. Clear. No wind. Bird song. Light. Heavy dew. 8.00am cumulo-stratus 8/10 cover. Wind NW4/5 on camp site — lifting my shirt collar. “Why not reef?” says Mary. Warm but cold wind round my head as I sit outside the sheltered cabin. Good racing weather.

10.30am Sunnana. Warm, flat sea, ?F2/3 — talk to over-weight owner of motor cruiser that is moored next to us and has not yet moved. He is optimistic, but talks of ‘waves’ and ‘danger’. Meet up with two young Swedes just getting up. Most helpful. Wind 2-5 metres (F2/3) from the N. Perfect for them as they are heading south. Away at 11.15am — full sail (what a lot of fuss). Head straight to South Cardinal buoy. Wind now down to F1/2. Warm and gentle. Lunch while lolling about. Jib furled to get better views. Reach home after sailing north for a while. Not possible to make much speed. See the 24 footer heading south. No-one else out. Return to trailer ramp and manage to de-rig efficiently in increasing heat. Beer with our harbourmaster friends. Pay up for use harbour SEK150 (£11.50), which includes use of shower, toilet block and washing-up and washing clothes facilities. There is a camp site here for young ‘with-it’ sailors.

Saturday: A non-sailing day. Blowing F4/6 on and off all day. Sunny. Hot. The camp site now almost full with static tents and large caravans occupied and all the cabins (24) with cars behind them. Explains the notice in the shower block ‘Please do not take more time than is necessary’. Everyone well behaved. Dogs on leads, children in abundance, but not over-noisy and quiet after 10.30pm. We drive south along country lanes to the point we had sailed towards. There is a drawing on the chart depicting the lighthouse here (Hjortens udde). It is an old wooden structure. The door is open . We go in. Up the two flights of stairs. Call. A man appears above us. We are invited up to the top. I go outside to see the waves rolling in from the south and breaking with a crash on the shore. This is the steep short sea I have heard so much about. It does exist. Light built in 1790 privately funded. Similar pattern all around this inland sea. We visit Dalbergsa, a little harbour set about ½ mile up a river 2-3 miles south of the point. A small camp site here but no facilities. Then north to Kopmannebro where the Dalsland Canal enters Lake Vanern. Impressive locks and a Gasthamn but nowhere to stay. Sunnana is the place to be for cruising here. Come in August when the Swedes have returned to work. Pick settled weather and cross the lake in two bites. First to Lacko and then to Mariestad.

Sunday: Still windy. Off to Filsback by driving south and east via Vanersborg to Lidkoping. Not such a good camp site but adequate. Visited Blomberg (nearest Gasthamn). An Optimist training school here able to sail in a large sheltered bay. Little done the last two days. Easy launching possible. Usual friendly welcome.

Monday: Windy again. A dramatic sunset last night. So we walked part of the Kinnekulle trail — met 2 sailors also walking, visited their yacht in Hallekis and decided that it is easier to put on walking shoes and a rucksack than rig a dinghy.

Tuesday: Last chance. 5.30am. Clear. Blue sky. F0/1. 7.00am overcast F0. 8.30am 7/10 cumulus. F2 — we’re going to sail.

9.30am. Drive with Jacana to Blomberg. Away by 11.00am. A fleet of Oppies in the bay under instruction. Sail round them, out of bay, leaving harbour to starboard, exit rocks marked so that it is like sailing up a tube and then out of the top of a funnel. Gentle F2 from the north — reach across the lake towards the Lacko peninsula. No one else on the water, Blomberg slowly diminishes, but a large farm on the hillside above is an excellent landmark. To the south we can see the factories of Lidkoping and the occasional loud noise which Mary decides is from a quarry. All round the cumulus cloud marks out the land whilst on the water there is blue sky and sun.

Lunch beckons. The far shore is tree lined and cliffy. There are small cabins dotted about and the odd jetty. Too deep to anchor. Straight ahead is a small gap in the cliff. We enter, under paddle, a tiny bay lined with stones and submerged rocks twice the length of Jacana. We roll her a little up the beach on a cylinder of toughened drain pipe. Pleasant leisurely lunch, a scramble up the stream running into our bay and onto the cliff top. Cloud more general, dark over the land to NE, the ripples on the water more pronounced. Rouse Mary and paddle out with sails up and meet an increasing wind. Noise of thunder to north and south of us. Waves starting to impress me. Mary loves this and cannot understand my feeling of impending doom. Masts in the harbour at Blomberg start to take shape. The outer mark of the funnel approaches and I bear away onto a run to get onto the right course, no wish to gybe, furl the jib, settle down the funnel and tube round the breakwater into the bay to flat water, little wind, no Oppies, but coming towards me is a 50ft Viking ship full of Swedes in short-sleeved shirts and sun hats and driven by a powerful engine. We surrender at once. They smile, wave, and head out to sea.

Two tough lads help us pull Jacana out quickly. Sails off, mast off, cover on and the rain comes sweeping in. We sit in the car and watch as a bedraggled party leaves the Viking ship to reunite with their coach. That evening we had a good meal in Lidkoping and talked to a merchant sailor as we walked by the river. “Don’t like the lake. Waves too jagged. Better on the true sea.” (Cost of living same as in England but wine expensive. We had beer usually).

The Return: Wednesday. A wet and windy drive to Lysekil (Erling and Lene’s home) for an afternoon of talk, return of charts, another very good meal (traditional roast Danish pork to celebrate mid-summer and the fertility rites that go with it). Then a drive on the coast road over high bridges spanning the sea to Goteborg. A night at a 4-star hotel.

Thursday: Up early. Large breakfast. On the ferry by 9.30am and Newcastle next morning. A lazy return lounging on the sun deck. We hope to go again in August sometime.

References:

1. Roger Pilkington Small boat through Sweden, Macmillan 1963. An account of a cruise on a large motor cruiser. DCA Library

2. DCA Magazine Nos. 89 and 90 Hugh Clay’s account ‘800 miles in sheltered waters’ — a 17ft wooden open boat sailed or rowed up the W coast and across Sweden via the Dalsland Canal, Lakes Vanern and Vattern and the Gota Canal.

3. Gasthamns Guide 99, Svenska Turistforeningen (STF), 101 20 Stockholm An impressive guide (available free from all Guest Harbours or direct). Lists 22 harbours around Lake Vanern and 64 on west coast north of Goteborg. Each harbour has 35 items noted from “Apotek” to “Veterinar”. New issue each year.

4. STF (Swedish YHA), Box 9, 45043 Smogen, Sweden .

Charts: Laurie Norie and Wilson Ltd put me in touch with Nautic Centre AB, Skeppsbroplatsen 1, S-41118, Goteborg. Tel : 0046 311 00885 fax: 0046 317 115357 No problems, spoke English, gave good advice, despatched Batsportkort Vanern (a complete series of charts for the lake — 27 in all) cost about £30.

Or west coast: Batsportkort Vastkusten would be needed (less cost).