Is this Heresy?

I believe that controlled speed is an asset in a dinghy. It allows longer passages to be made with less risk of being caught by changes in the weather or of being held up by contrary currents or tides. Of course you may prefer to use the iron topsail in light winds but sails are quieter and more satisfying and speed is also exciting and satisfying in itself. Of course I don’t mean uncontrolled speed. Speed is an asset because it makes longer passages possible in a given time. A dinghy must be at rest when you sleep although I have goosewinged the jib and lashed the tiller to take a half-hour break during an excessively long passage. This means that a passage is limited to the time that you can keep going. The longer you are going the tireder you will be and the greater is the risk of the weather deteriorating. Speed is also critical when fighting currents where a small increase in boat speed can make a dramatic difference to progress. The ebb out of the mouth of Portsmouth Harbour is up to seven knots and there are plenty faster. As with a car speed of itself is not dangerous unless it is excessive, it is a question of appropriate and controlled speed. Normally the ideal speed is from five to ten knots. Below five knots I would rather be going faster, the scenery drags by and the pub is a long way away. Much above ten the scenery is tearing by and a twitch on the rudder could result in a drink a lot earlier than desired. As with a car, in confined spaces lower speeds may be appropriate and I towed a sea anchor under bare poles to keep my speed down to that of the tub ahead while negotiating locks on the Crinan Canal.

My ideal dinghy would have a reasonable sail area for force five, with reefs for higher winds and the ability to increase sail in lower winds. I considered a gaff rig with a leg of mutton (Bermudan) sail for strong winds. This would mean that my mast could be six or seven feet shorter. However the Bermudan rig is easily controlled and simple even if I do have that extra top hamper in a blow and a taller mast to drop for bridges. Two aluminium poles are lighter and more easily handled than three wooden ones. Another possibility is to add a mizzen, brilliant for lying ahull or for steadying and grand for supporting a tent but they are difficult to arrange with a transom hung rudder and is yet another stick to be dropped for bridges. I prefer a main with reefs for strong winds and an easily furled jib and a spinnaker to supercharge the performance in light winds. This also gives a choice of sails for low speeds in confined waters. Main only for manoeuvring upwind and a partly furled jib for downwind.

I should explain my sailing roots. My introduction to dinghies was a Norfolk Punt at the age of 13. The punt was originally a 22ft gun punt with a 28ft rig setting about 200sq.ft. Incidentally the helmsman, who had been sailing it single-handed, was also 13. The punts are very fast, they are the scratch boats on the Broads although this one was built in 1935 out of heavy mahogany planking and with a massive steel centreplate and iron rudder. Two years later we cruised that punt from Barton to Hickling and Horsey, camping on the shore because the cockpit is full of case, struts and winches with nowhere to sleep.

In 1972 I bought a Mirror Sixteen. This fulfilled my requirements, the reefable main, the roller jib, a spinnaker and also had a pram hood and a raised floor. It had a good performance especially when being cruised single-handed and was faster than a Fireball in winds up to force three. Its weaknesses are beating in waves in a blow and the light construction and susceptibility to deterioration of the floor and bottom. I fought a long running battle patching the floor and the bottom!

My latest toy is a Dutchman (Italian made just to live up to its international reputation). At 6m it is nearly as long as my old friend the punt and has a similar sail area. I have sailed it five times so far but it lives up to its name as a flyer. In force one the self-bailers start to suck. In force two she is lifting onto the plane. In force three it is time to roll the jib if sailing alone but, no matter, she is going faster than the local paddle steamer.

I have yet to organise tent or cuddy, the double floor gives a feel comparable to the Sixteen. There are many more pieces of string, I counted pulleys and reckon there are over 150 altogether, but they are mostly well contained under the side decks and are not too untidy. The Sixteen’s pram hood doesn’t work with a through stepped mast and I was interested in the idea of the fishing umbrella shown recently but the shrouds are likely to get in the way. I shall start with the old Sixteen’s tent initially.

My ultimate project is a trimaran designed around the Sixteen rig. Designed to be faster in all conditions, unlike cats, which are slow in light airs. In light airs speed depends on sail area and wetted area, in medium, length is important, in strong it is power to weight. The tri has a 19ft main hull 20 inches wide (displacing enough to carry four people plus gear) and a predicted all up weight of 150 lbs (main hull 50, 2 side hulls @ 15, 3 crossbeams @ 12, leaving 35 for deck, rig and fittings). The side hulls are designed as fairy wheels, a reserve to steady the vessel and one only should be in contact and ideally just kissing the water. They are as fine as a racing skiff and will probably have a similar effect on anything they hit (i.e. in one side and out the other). Speeds should be vastly increased, with an enormous safety reserve. However the downside will be the 11ft beam and the restless nights caused by the vessel flipping from one wing hull to the other. I also don’t know how I will row or paddle it.

Capsizing seems to greatly trouble the DCA at the moment. I rarely capsize (where’s that wooden pencil?) and even more rarely while cruising (three times in the last 28 years and four while racing). Each one is etched in my mind and resulted in a review and modifications of my procedures and gear. It must be possible to furl the jib reliably and while sitting out. The main halyard must be on a quick release cleat and ready to drop easily. Have a bow-line and at least one anchor for ease of mooring (I have carried three) and fenders (large ones double as boat rollers) for coming alongside. Reefs to reduce sail to about 50sq.ft are essential and must be easy to tie down. It must be impossible to miss the toe straps! If flown it must be possible to drop the spinnaker without leaving the tiller. Do not leave the hatches open even when you know that you are not going to capsize! Carry gear in waterproof canoe bags, which are tied into the boat.

In all cases of capsize I have self rescued although I had help gathering up gear after one in ’72 and have accepted help on three other occasions:- mast broke, forestay parted and rudder pintles failing. I have self rescued after innumerable gear failures including three dismastings due to shroud failure and loss of shroud pin (twice) and also broken boom and pintle problems (I carry tools and spares). I have also returned the compliment by towing in a motor boat who had run out of petrol.

I have been looking through the list of rallies; it is 26 years since I last attended one although I presented my boat on the DCA stand in ’78 and sailed three 500 mile and many shorter cruises as well (’74, ’77 & ’78). I sail from the Medway YC and consider Stangate one of my afternoon jaunts. The Folly used to be one of my old favourites if I’m not at Whitstable that weekend. The Thames and Swale sound good, the Crouch also, especially if I can get through Havengore. Then there is Chichester for auld lang syne and Bursledon because I love the upper Hamble. Is there no trip to the Master Builder at Beaulieu? I liked the sound of the Great Glen Raid but it is a long way and the French were appalled by my suggestion, they wanted ‘traditional’ boats only! Anyway I hope to see some of you in the coming season, look out for FD366.