Mary, Jacana, our Wanderer, and I crossed by DFDS ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg overnight. We were out of the docks quickly and three hours later had driven the 118 miles to the attractive town of Svendborg at the south end of Fyn. This is the island lying between Jutland, the west stem of Denmark, and Sealand, Copenhagen’s island.

We were here because, as a result of sailing in Sweden last year, an invitation had arrived in the autumn from Poul Ammentorp, Commodore of the Scandinavian Wayfarer Association, to join in their annual rally. He wrote that they would welcome their ‘little sister Wanderer Wayfarer’ at Rantzausminde Camping. This site lies on the edge of the sea about 3 miles West of Svenborg at the far end of the straggling village of Rantzausminde. Driving along the road through Rantzausminde on the left can be seen water, a marina, a large sailing club, woodland, a new shoreline flat development and older traditional houses. On the other side of the road we noted a large Spar supermarket open till 7 pm. Important as we were staying in a Sprite Caravan hired from Gerda who manages the camp site.

When we drove gently through the site, we found 4 or 5 tents already up and a few Wayfarers already lying moored to stakes driven into the firm sandy/clay sea bed about 2 ft deep here with the shallow extending out for another 60/70 yds forming a sheltered curving bay protected from the vicious wind and curling white-horsed sea that had been building up all day. We left Jacana on her trailer in peace, had a chat with Allen and Sue who we had met at Harwich towing their Wayfarer behind a motor caravan. We went across the field to introduce ourselves to George, Brian and Mareanne who had brought Perky Rabbit across on the same ferry. By the end of the week end there were 37 Wayfarers moored to posts. The most impressive arrival was a Wayfarer that sailed in on Sunday having made a passage from Sweden with a Dutch owner and Ralph Roberts, an intrepid Englishman, as crew. The Dutchman repaired his electronic autopilot system next morning, replaced his stores and in a lightish wind left to return to Sweden on his own. No such ventures for us.

On Saturday the wind still blew hard so we went into Svendborg in the morning to purchase a chart and rigged and launched Jacana to a stake I had driven in with help from Stefan earlier using a handheld pile driver. That evening Wayfarers were coming in apace.

Sunday was the official opening of the rally with the daily bugle call at 9 am at the flag pole followed by welcomes and announcements in English that day. Ken ‘senior’ spoke in English and Danish about the 20 years of sailing here but it was Stefan who outlined the day’s programme with choices. At last we were going to sail and the wind was light and the sun was out. A look at the chart showed the scattering of islands that makes this water so attractive that the Wayfarers have been returning to now for so many years.

We chose to sail to the island of Skaro, direction SW, about 3 nautical miles but it was a beat once we sailed out of the enclosed mile wide water between Fyn and the shore of Tasinge. The Wayfarers set out in fits and starts and we wondered if we were going to the right island as there was no compulsion to follow any particular course. Stefan would check in the evening that we had returned!

The sea opened up, the wind remained a gentle F2 and we meandered to Skaro making certain we kept out of the ferry’s way going S of us to Drejo. We came to an attractive sandy beach just up from the little harbour, I jumped over, fixed an anchor on the shore and Jacana lay peacefully sheltered from the wind by the low sand dune under which we all settled and lunched. Some slept, some walked into the hamlet to report no shop and no inn, the children splashed and swam. We did a little desultory bird watching looking across the marshes beyond the dune. No one seemed anxious to move so we set sail to circumnavigate the island clockwise as there was a long narrow tail of sand running off the N end.

It was delightful reaching round the E end but then the tacking started as we head SW across a wide shallow bay with rounded boulders under water to remind us to keep offshore. The chart, we realised, gives average depths so anything under a metre was suspect even in an area where tides are not of great moment as far as height difference is concerned but there is a distinct flow E or W which is noted in the Svenborg Tourist Info. Book.

We had to tack out towards Drejo to clear the shallows but eventually rounded the W end and headed N to find the sandy tail and round the green pole lying off its end. No one came with us and we had the sea mainly to ourselves except for the ferry to Drejo and intermittent yachts under engine moving along the Fyn coast. There are many marinas around Fyn and surrounding islands and later in the week we saw some fine yachts driving into big seas or running down to Svenborg with spinnakers set. Jacana sailed gently back to Rantzausminde and we signed off having done about 10 nautical miles. We were well pleased.

Next day we sailed with about 12 Wayfarers to Hjorto, another small island with a sandy beach, to the S once we had cleared Tasinge. It was virtually a reach each way in Force 2/3 and again we could anchor off and laze in the sun. An easier 10 nautical miles.

Tuesday Mary decided to have a day off. I joined with Mogens and Briani in Mogens’ Wayfarer. An interesting sail to Birkholm, an island 2 miles S of Hjorto. Three skippers but at least I had a compass and chart and so after some discussion we found the right island, avoided the rocks and shallows, went round to the W side and there, as usual, was a good beach. We walked across the island after lunch and then set sail to complete the circuit of Birkholm. We needed to tack off towards Tasinge to avoid some shallows and rocks below the water. The Danes decided that it would be a good idea to sail round Tasinge. A long haul starting at 2.30 with the current against us. I was at the helm. I tacked away and argued them out of it. We had a spanking sail back in a good F3 and learnt later that a crew had failed to round Tasinge, left their Wayfarer in a marina and come back by bus.

Wednesday was the last of the sunny days. We sailed in light and variable winds to Avernako and would have gone to the wrong beach as we were first if Perky Rabbit had not signalled us to follow him in. The wind had increased and anchoring off was difficult as we had not got the Fortress anchor on board. Eventually some strong men turned Jacana round and she sat on rollers with her bow pointing down the beach to the sea. The beach was gravely and the experts were worried about jammed plates.

We set off home first in minimal wind and cheated, using the 0/B for the first time on and off over the next 40 minutes. Then the wind came in and we had a good sail home being overtaken by 4 Wayfarers that had started after us. Mogens was very pleased to have beaten us though I did not know we were racing each other!

Thursday was interesting. It blew from the W and went round to the N later. There was a meeting in the morning for the Wayfarers, so I took Mogens for a sail in Jacana down wind towards Svendborg, failed to study the chart and just avoided running onto a boulder-strewn shallow off a small island. Should have followed the ferry line. Tacked back in increasing wind. We attended the race meeting announcement, giving details of the course and variations for the 2 pm race — apparently a new idea. Difficult to believe that the leading boat could choose which way to round the windward mark and that he cannot fly a spinnaker but others can till they catch up. If they pass him still flying it then a 760° turn is the penalty! Further variations ensured that it was a very devious system of handicapping. I did not listen attentively till I realised that Mogens was keen to race. I suggested a young fit keen crew was what he needed but he claimed that it was experience. We met about 30 minutes before the first gun. Set out late with me at the helm. Force 4/5 choppy waves and white horses — unreefed. We rushed down wind towards the start line. A test beat rapidly showed me I was not in control. We returned to the shore and put in a reef. The race had started. We sailed the 3/4 mile to the start and flogged up the beat. Centre main sheet took a delight in winding round my ankles every time we tacked. With some difficulty I convinced Mogens that once round the course was adequate and we retired. One Wayfarer capsized, two retired, only about 12 started, some others even reefed, some had three on board, so I did not feel too ashamed.

Friday and Saturday it blew. Eleven Wayfarers went off on the Friday and looked great planing in, in the late afternoon. On Saturday three went out. Tough lot, skilled, efficient and seemingly totally confident and happy in strong winds. Jacana came out in the dry weather on Friday but my last sail was on Sunday morning when I crewed Ken ‘junior’s’ Wayfarer with Ralph Roberts as helm to a marina where recovery would be easy. Pleasant gentle sail, easy jetty for going ashore, a serrated ramp to pull the boat out. One problem — it was steeply angled and slimy. I stood on it to help and gently slid under. My buoyancy aid still works. Ralph and Ken recovered me and then the boat. Not a distinguished way to finish the week.

References:

1. DFDS Seaways Ltd, Scandavia House, Parkeston, Harwich, Essex CO1 2 4QG

2. Gerda, Rantzausminde Camping, Rantzausminde 215, DK 5700, Svendborg, Denmark. Tel: (00 45) 62 20 87 77 — some English spoken. 3. Chart 215 — obtainable from the chandler in Svendborg situated opposite the main yacht harbour cost 125kr.=f1 0) — plenty of good restaurants nearby. 4. Tourist Office, DK-5700, Svenborg, Denmark Fax: (00 45) 6222 0553 Tel: (00 45) 6221 0980 — English spoken. Further Information from Danish Tourist Board, 55 Sloane St. London SWIX 95Y Tel 020 7259 5959.