A six mile day sail. Forecast for April 28th 2001: wind W f3-4 backing Sf3. LW 13.00. Sea state — smooth.

I know I’m always going on about it, but my obsession with the sea state is justified. Here it makes such a difference to the type of sailing that can be done. This coast can be very hostile in onshore seas. A smooth sea allows rare access to the exposed beaches along this beautiful coastline and I intended to show off one of the most beautiful and secret places to the ship’s company — Bill Jones. The boat? A Dockrell 17, a ballasted Bermudan sloop with a 5hp outboard.

We let go the River Cocquet mooring (Amble) at 11.50 and the strong ebb and following wind took us to the entrance in quick time. There we set a northerly course to clear the extensive shallow reef off Boulmer, known as Marmouth Scars. Now at sea, the true wind speed and direction could be assessed. We agreed on WNW F4 gusting to 5. After consideration, I decided to leave the mainsail unreefed, as close-reached we would need power to punch through the quartering waves, knowing that half-way across Alnmouth Bay we would be one mile offshore. The genoa area was reduced occasionally on the roller system and wind was spilled from the main as the gusts came through. Visibility was excellent with lots of sunshine, but isolated showers were about and we kept a keen eye upwind, fearing stronger gusts to come. Speed was estimated at 6kn over the ground. We had some tidal assistance, although probably less than 1kn. We spotted no other sail! A motor boat kept us company for a few miles before turning seawards, then we were alone.

We arrived off Boulmer at 12.47, a personal best time of 52mins. Some readers may know of Boulmer for its air/sea rescue operations base.

Dunstanburgh Castle, my Northumbrian favourite, now looked its dramatic best further to the north against a bright blue sky and active cumulus clouds. To me, with it built on local high ground and above a steep sea cliff, even in partial ruins it still stands defiant and threatens violence to anyone with territorial ambitions.

The shallow reef off NE Boulmer known as Longhoughton Steel was now astern and we altered course to NW and motor-sailed close-hauled to our destination. Howick Haven is merely a crack in the reef on the northern side of a bay I call Howick Bay, one mile north of Boulmer. Sand is available for beaching near the top of the tide, otherwise a sandy patch on a mainly rocky bottom must be found on which to drop the hook. A ship’s boiler, which seems resistant to anything the North Sea can do, makes a good mark on the eastern flank of the reef. Unable to get ashore easily, we left the Haven and motored to one of three small clean sandy beaches, each separated by long fingers of rock. Here we ran onto the sand and set the kedge anchor, a small Bruce copy. The boat draws 9” with everything raised and it is possible to get ashore dry, wearing wellies — with luck.

The barbecue and picnic gear was unloaded and we found a conveniently shaped, waist-high, rock ledge to set up the galley. We were now in the most beautiful corner of the bay, which was edged by farmland and low cliff. At our corner Howick Burn ran through a strip of mature woodland and out across the beach. A handsome footbridge allows coast walkers a dry crossing. Gorse was in bright yellow flower on one hillside and grazing livestock were seen and heard. Lack of concentration on my part allowed the spicy sausages to blacken, but they remained edible and the kebabs were great. It was all eagerly devoured with a mixed salad and fresh bread rolls, washed down with beer and a fine red Australian wine. My dinner-time peace was broken by a couple of undignified rushes back to the boat to re-set the anchor before the rising tide caused flooded wellies! Now with hunger satiated, we could properly gloat at the beauty of this place.

We packed up and re-boarded the boat to motor back to the Haven to anchor and yarn about other travel adventures. Then at last! On this fine, mild, sailing day someone else was about! A small yacht was seen on passage north making good speed. I doubt if the skipper saw us as we were partly hidden to view from the sea. But then I’ve never seen or heard of another boat in Howick Haven. I presume it was named as a haven because it was useful to fishing cobles, until they were fitted with engines.

The return trip was again enjoyable. The wind had backed a little and eased as predicted. More sail was seen. This time two boats out from Amble for a ‘jolly’ round the bay. We were again able to sail fast, full-and-bye until just before the river entrance, when the outboard was started to get us back to the mooring.