‘An enclosed area of water where you can potter for a while undisturbed? Somewhere like Poole or Chichester, but without the crowds?’ PBO article by John Leonard

The Rade de Brest is about 10 miles from east to west and 6 miles from north to south. The entrance from the Atlantic, the Goulet, is about 2.5 miles long and up to a mile wide. Inside the Rade there is little tidal flow (2 kts max. in main channels at springs) but a significant rise of 3 or more metres. The major French naval and commercial port of Brest dominates the northern shore just beyond the inner end of the Goulet. There is a large marina and 2 slips to the Rade at Brest. On the other side of the sea is the shore of the Presque/Ile de Crozon, a narrow peninsula jutting out into the Atlantic with the Bay of Douarnenez on its other side. This is where Mary found a gîte, Pebbles, for us, 10 minutes drive from the Rade.

In late June we crossed overnight by ferry from Portsmouth to St. Malo and drove west to Pebbles easily by early afternoon. An alternative would be Plymouth to Roscoff with a shorter drive in France.

We were not certain about launching and retrieval but Trailing Down Channel had some sites listed. We looked at Lanveoc first as our English hostess had suggested it as suitable. Lanveoc is a large village with good facilities to purchase all the provisions we would need. A drive down a hill brought us to a steep ramp running into the Rade. There is a sandy beach stretching for about 300m alongside with a small ramp running onto it. The tide was well out and we asked a young couple bailing out a sturdy wooden clinker built boat lying to heavy weights embedded in the sand whether we could leave Jacona, our 14ft Wanderer sailing dinghy here. They were not sure and suggested we ask at the small caravan site just across the road from the main ramp. Small and quiet as the French had yet to arrive for their holidays. The small bar opposite was empty so we left, feeling somewhat dejected.

Bill McDonald had noted Le Fret a few miles further west. We drove down a curving road to a causeway, with a lake inland and sand, rocks, old wrecks and 20 or more boats swinging to their moorings on our right hand side. Across the causeway we turned into Le Fret, sticking a little out into the sea with a small store, hotel, 2 bars, a crêperie together with a large quay with room for plenty of cars, 2 ferry offices and a wide ramp running for 80m into the water, its end marked by a tall pole. The village was alive. We had a beer in the bar nearest to the quay, recovering from the heat, talked to the lad who ran the crêperie who was playing pool with the bar owner and found there would be no problem leaving Jacona here.

Next day Jacona was rigged and left as the wind was gusting in spite of the ‘high’. Same again the day after! Friday we had to sail, so with a reefed main and cruising jib we reached towards Lanveoc, avoiding the restricted naval area marked with large yellow buoys to which one fisherman had attached his boat. John Leonard was right. We were the only sailing boat out. An occasional small naval boat would appear and vanish beyond Lanveoc or head for the other side of Le Fret where we could see the Ile Longue, a narrow projection of land to the west covered with large flat roofed buildings, cranes, derricks and having a sinister appearance with plenty of yellow ‘keep out’ buoys around. All this did not affect my enjoyment. The helm in my hand again, Jacona responsive as ever, the wind steady, the waves not troublesome as the wind was coming from the south over the low cliffs between the villages. This is why we sail. Back to the ramp, trolley pushed under and we pulled Jacona out and had an excellent lunch sitting in the sun on the quayside followed by a beer at the inland bar, so out of the wind one wondered how we had managed to sail at all.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the peninsula which has a Cornish like coast facing the Atlantic and lush meadows and woodland inland. The previous day we had watched 2 yachts driving out through the Goulet, tide under and wind against and a large German yacht coming in under engine, heading up to the north side to escape the tide and then slipping into the Rade.

We also went south to the Bay of Douarnenez to visit Morgat, a most attractive resort with a large well-organised marina with plenty of space for sailing dinghies, friendly staff in spite of the fact that the World Volvo Youth Sailing Championships were going to start in a few days. An ideal place for a family holiday — ice cream, fish and chips, sandy beach, cliff walks, excellent restaurants, and possibility to have super sailing in the bay with easy launching and retrieval from the marina at a reasonable cost.

Saturday was a more settled day. We set off under full sail north and with a southwest wind gave a wide berth to the end of the Ile Longue and headed west beating in towards Roscanvel. The beaches were stony, so we moored to a free buoy just off the shore and had a leisurely lunch in the shelter of the cliffs. Later we hoisted the main and emerged from the wind shadow to find the wind had been steadily increasing. The jib had not been unfurled and stayed that way. We broad reached at speed back towards Ile Longue, Mary sitting behind the thwart and I was relieved that the boom was to port so no need to consider jibing in the quick build up of waves. Once well beyond the furthest yellow buoy we headed south, unfurled the jib in the lee of Ile Longue and tacked back to ‘our’ ramp.

We have a steel plate and I agree with Peter Bick — it is great for easing the work on a beat (we can have a gossip just sitting on the deck) but does not help downwind.

Sunday was a day of gentle winds. We headed across the Rade till we could see the immense bridge crossing the L’Elorn river and the yachts racing there. Again no sandy beach and with 1 foot swell we abandoned an attempt to land north of the Pointe de l’Amorique, had lunch floating towards the point. Realized as we went between it and the little island lying off its tip that here was a perfect small sandy bay being used by the crews of yachts at anchor hidden from us round the corner. We sailed on eastwards, opening a large bay, Anse de l’Auberlac’h, then wandered across to ‘our’ coast and by mid afternoon returned to Le Fret. The ferries use the ramp 2 or 3 times a day, depending on the season. It is necessary to know the times to avoid them as they come in and out at speed.

Monday was another gentle day, so we headed east past Lanveoc, saw the Naval College round a further headland and crossed to the Baie de Daoulas. Three rivers run in here but none are big. Low rolling countryside, wooded or pasture down to the water’s edge, soothing to the spirit! We sailed up the Anse de l’Auberlac’h and saw a small village tucked away at its head (L’Auberlach). A ramp, moored boats, small beach, well sheltered from the winds, looks ideal to me but not mentioned in the Trailing Down Channel book and nor is Morgat which compares well with Torquay.

Tuesday was vicious at Le Fret — even my boat cover was lifting and the moored boats were riding up and down, trying to escape their tethers. On a long sandy beach near Morgat, we lazed in the sun, swam, walked the cliff path and wondered why we bother to sail. We watched as black clouds passed overhead and heard the thunder and saw the sheet lighting.

Next morning we bailed out the boat cover and sailed in minimal wind and so the wind remained next day. Mary commented that sailing is hopeless — either no wind or too much but the food and wine were good and we basked in the sun and looked at the sea.

References

1. Cruising the Rade de Brest, John Leonard, Practical Boat Owner, July ‘96, pages 81-84 2. Brittany Sailing, L’Ancrage, Kergalet, 29160 Lanveoc, Finisterre, France 3. Trailing Down Channel, Bill Mc Donald, Opus Book Publishing Ltd. ‘98 4a. The Question of Ballast, Peter Bick, D.C.A. Bulletin 170, pages 24-27 4b. Peter Bick — personal communication

Chart: Navicarte 540/542 (two sided) covers the Rade and Baie de Douarnenez Maps: 1. Brest. Quimper 13 — La carte touristique locale — 1;100000 good local road map with Rade and whole of peninsula. 2. Cameret. Presque/Ile de Crozon 0418 FT — La carte de randonnée — 1:25000. Excellent walking map — footpaths well marked. Ferry: Brittany Ferries — free brochure 0870 5 143 537 — and start saving now.