Marian is a 14ft 6in Loch Broom Post Boat, one of the Character Boats range designed by Paul Fisher. She is a sturdy, seaworthy little craft with a gaff cutter rig, and has proved herself capable of extended coastal passages in the hands of her cautious skipper.

This account describes a passage up the Suffolk coast from Lowestoft to Harwich, made in the early summer when the weather was settled and the days long. The route took us "up the outside" - following the coastline rather than using the inland waterways - a more demanding but more rewarding choice.

We launched at Lowestoft and headed south, keeping a respectful distance from the breaking waves along the shore. The Suffolk coast is notorious for its shifting sandbanks and strong tidal streams, and navigation requires constant attention. The GPS is a useful aid, but there is no substitute for keeping a good lookout and understanding the behaviour of wind and tide.

Our first port of call was Southwold, where we anchored in the river and rowed ashore for supplies. The town is charming, with its lighthouse standing guard over the harbour entrance. From Southwold we continued to Aldeburgh, negotiating the bar at the river entrance with care. The Alde and Ore are among the finest cruising waters on the East Coast, but their approaches can be treacherous in onshore winds.

The passage to Harwich took us past the shingle spit of Orford Ness, with its distinctive pagodas - relics of the secret research station that operated there during the Cold War. The tide was with us as we rounded the Ness and headed up the Wallet towards Harwich. By evening we were safely moored in the harbour, tired but satisfied with a passage well made.

Coastal cruising in a small open boat requires careful planning and a willingness to wait for suitable weather. But for those who take the time and trouble, it offers rewards that no larger vessel can match - the intimate connection with the sea, the satisfaction of self-reliance, and the pleasure of making quiet progress along our ancient coastline.