We thank the DCA for the warm welcome extended by the membership secretary. I have been a member before, but my partner Ann has not! A second lapse into serious dinghy racing which I have now got out of my system made large inroads into cruising time. Early retirement to North Norfolk and a revision of our fleet of four National 12s down to one, plus the purchase of an aluminium motorboat, has brought our aquatic activities full circle. (My first sea trip in a small boat was aboard an alloy motor dinghy over 50 years ago!) Strangely enough, another new member of the DCA who joined at the same time as us also has a National 12 – I really must talk to him!

Let's look at the first of our two boats. National 12 No.2383 Sparkle – the last dinghy constructed of the Mike Nokes 'Starfish' design – was built in 1967. On the face of it, a National does not seem a likely cruising dinghy and indeed modern 12s are very much racing machines and I would go so far as to say that the modern National is totally unsuitable for anything but racing – not so some of those from an earlier age. Some of the designs from the late 1950s to the late 1960s can easily be adapted for day sailing, though I would think that sleeping on board is not an option. The sensible criteria suggested for a cruising dinghy by the DCA would not be met entirely by a classic National 12. However, a glance through the boats owned by members would indicate that many would fall down on some of the recommendations. As members are probably aware, National 12s are built to a set of rules and can be any shape within certain parameters. The very early boats (1936 to the mid-1950s, mainly Uffa Kings) were narrow-beamed and fairly tippy. In the 1950s more stable designs became the order of the day; this was to take into account the additional power available from Terylene sails and better rigs, plus a natural progression in design. I am aware that stability is a relative term and obviously any National 12 is not as stable as, for example, a Tideway or a Wayfarer. They are, however, a good deal lighter – very important for ageing bodies trying to pull their craft up an uneven slipway! Then, as now, all-round designs are the most popular, i.e. those that can perform well at sea or inland in a variety of wind conditions.

Here I must express a liking for straight stems! Ever since I went afloat as a very young child I have been fascinated by the way water from the bow wave appears to climb up a vertical stem and then falls forward. It is aesthetically very pleasing to watch. You can see this on a 12 when sitting out beating to windward seated, as you should be, well forward. There is also a practical advantage with a straight stem. If it is immersed when clawing to windward it acts as an effective addition to lateral resistance, giving more grip on the water. However, it is not as good at running up beaches as a curved forefoot, but I really can't remember when I last ran a dinghy hard onto a pebbly shoreline!

What designs would be suitable as day sailors, given the previous ramblings? My own choice, based on designs I have owned or sailed, would be Proctors Mk.8 and 11, Uffa Fox Smuggler and the Mike Nokes Starfish. There may well be others but these four designs are really very pleasant to sail. As you will realise, the above are outclassed for racing purposes on open water (other than for classic dinghy events) but as we are talking about day sailing that really is of no concern.

Our boat has been given a number of modifications to make her more suited to day sailing. We yacht on the North Norfolk coast and this means quite a lot of boating about in mess! Narrow and often busy creeks lead to large harbours and wide estuaries. Getting out of these creeks under sail can be a problem, so we have solved this by strengthening the transom of Sparkle to take a 2hp outboard that stows alongside the centreboard case when not in use. With sails furled this engine gives safe passage in and out of the creeks. Oars and rowlocks are also kept on board as these are handy for localised manoeuvring.

Now to the rig. The alloy Bermudan mast has been retained but a wooden boom from a previously-owned dinghy (modified as it was originally too long) has been substituted for the alloy one that came with the boat. The wooden boom was much a better proposition for fitting slab-reefing gear. A suit of full-size sails which are the same age as the hull – old but serviceable – a bit like the owners really – are used on light weather days. A hardly-used suit of Enterprise cruising sails from a dinghy I owned some years ago are suitable for general sailing, particularly as the mainsail is equipped with reef points (two sets) and slab-reefing gear. An 'N' insignia and correct numbers have replaced the original stick-on letter and numerals. The light blue sails are very restful on the eyes when the sun is shining – they look nice too! The jib is set on a strop at the tack to give better visibility forward and the correct sheeting angle. Additionally this sail is fitted with a jib-furler – very handy. A topping lift from the boom end to the masthead is useful when motoring and when lowering the mainsail. It also provides the ideal place from which we can fly our small ensign. As an aside here, did you know that the EU is actively considering legislation to stop our red duster being flown and the blue and gold starry thing being substituted? Not on our boats matey!

All the usual cruising gear is carried including flares, an adequate CQR anchor, etc.

Now to the really big advantage of buying an old racing dinghy – price! We bought Sparkle in 1995 for £300, complete with trolley, cover and in full sailing order. In 1992 our Smuggler design had been purchased for £500 complete with brand-new racing sails and a road trailer. In 2001 we purchased another Starfish design National 12 in good order, with road trailer for £250. What value for money! And the good news is that the prices are still about the same. The majority of National 12s of the 1960s were beautifully built using glued clinker construction and many have been kept in reasonable, if not first-class, condition. One item that is worth looking for is the change from metal centreplate to wooden centreboard in 1964. My own view, one shared by many owners, is that a steel centreplate conveys very little extra stability to a hull (an alloy one even less). If possible it would be better to purchase a boat with a centreboard, not a centreplate. Quite apart from the weight aspect, a centreboard is easier to manage and does not require a tackle to raise or lower it. If your boat has a narrow centre-case slot and you want a lighter board then one can easily be made from a material called 'Permali' - a sort of super laminated board. I have owned two boats with this type of board – they both sailed very well and I was pleased to rid myself of 35lbs of butcher's cleaver and associated tackle!

So with care exercised during the initial purchase you have a boat to be proud of which will be a constant source of pleasure for years to come. Glued clinker construction was introduced into the class in 1953, producing an easily cleaned and maintained hull. This is light compared to a traditionally built clinker dinghy with all its ribs and additional timbers. As we become older lightness becomes an essential part of living – boats included! A clinker hull also tends to be sea-kindly and the plank lands keep much of the splashwater where it belongs.

As for the aluminium motorboat – more of her in a future article providing the editor doesn't consider this heresy!

I will be pleased to help any member who is contemplating buying a National. My 'phone number is 01263821289 or 07799743721

Good sailing! AD

You're not alone in choosing a thoroughbred racer as a cruising boat, Andrew. See the article by Roy Downes, p.29, Spring Bulletin 182, which partly deals with his conversion of a National 18, 'Surprise'. I don't know which of the N12 variants is featured in the photograph I've found to accompany your article, but it dates from the early 1970s, when, apparently, a professionally-built boat would set you back about £300: so you could argue that they've kept their price rather well! Speaking for myself, I've always thought that the Flying Dutchman hull would provide the makings of a superb yawl, with a length overall of 19' 10.5" (6.05mtrs) and a beam of 5' 7" (1.72 mtrs), so if you know of one going at a similar price, preferably a cold-moulded hull with a finish on it like a grand piano ...... KM