The frustrating thing was that on the day of launching I had perfect conditions for the 47-mile coastal trip from the Tyne to Holy Island with the Dockrell 17. Since then, for weeks, the weather has been cold with the wind direction containing some, or a lot, of north in it.

So with south-westerlies set in, it was an opportunity to be grabbed. I finished work early to make full use of the ebb. The mast had to come down so as to clear the Swing Bridge at Newcastle. My information gives a clearance of 14 and a quarter feet at MHWS. The only way I'd get under that is at LW. There are two other low bridges to negotiate, including the Millennium Bridge (one yachtsman has already disgraced himself by hitting it and I did not want to join his club.)

The rig was reset while alongside a YC pontoon. I'd hoped to 'borrow' someone to assist the operation but the place was deserted. However, with some straining and swearing the operation was successful and I cast off with a strong ebb under me. Despite a good breeze, I did not hoist the rags as the Tyne just here is in a canyon and the wind is highly distorted and flukey.

At 'The Narrows' in the final reach, I am pleased to report my impeccable behaviour: i.e. I was where I was supposed to be, tight on the starboard side of the channel as an unladen tanker passed me as she made her way upstream. Previously I'd teased the Deputy Harbourmaster by saying I'd be looking skywards from my little boat at some huge vessel yelling 'SAIL BEFORE STEAM YOU *******S! He'd replied grumpily, 'You wanna read the ****** Bye-Laws'.

In the entrance the true wind was felt, a F5, and I hoisted a fully-reefed main. The genoa is on a roller system and with the wind abeam or on the quarter it would be a simple matter of adjusting the area to whatever was comfortable.

The ESE swell was long and lazy – never a bad thing for the sailor who prefers to keep close inshore as shallows and rocks are so clearly indicated by breaking water. They were perfect conditions, and the boat was at 5.5-6.2kn on the GPS and I had tidal assistance for another four hours.

Off Blyth (10M) the wind increased further and I contemplated an overnight at the Royal Northumberland YC, but with evening approaching I hoped the wind would ease as it so often does. I pressed on and the choice was a good'un as the stronger blow did not last. It settled back to a SW F4-5. Already, reassuringly, the Cocquet light could be seen, and this would be my preferred stopover. The passage was uneventful, apart from bumping the centreboard on shallows as I shaved too much off a corner. I arrived in the river Cocquet (23M) in darkness and took the first available mooring. Sleep was a priority, and because of the cold it was a broken sleep.

I awoke early to a sunny early morning and a light breeze. The boat was hurriedly made ready. The sails were not hoisted as the wind was too light, although the forecast promised wind the same as yesterday. The swell had decayed such that in the deep water of Alnmouth Bay it was hardly noticeable. The motor was set to 'econo-cruise' and, with the weak tidal assist, I had 4.5kn GPS. The wind remained very light, not enough to give any drive. Crossing Alnmouth Bay was the one time I was any distance offshore, perhaps 1M. It was now, when the 'tiller tamer' was in use as I ate and carried out maintenance, that I noticed the tiller was snagging. Inspection revealed a broken moulding, presumably down to my rough treatment.

Eventually I was off Boulmer. From here the coastal castles come thick and fast, a delight for the inshore sailor. Once round the long outstretched Longhoughton Steel rocks, the shore could be closed as deep water is close inshore. Fishing parties were leaving Craster Harbour, and I paused off the entrance to take a photo. My previous efforts have never done the place justice.

Dunstanburgh Castle is best described as a preserved ruin; it is splendid nonetheless. Being perched on the edge of the sea the sailor can get up close and personal. The wind was freshening, so I cut the engine and hoisted full sail.

Most of the time the GPS is for my amusement but somewhere ahead was Newton Rock buoy, a red can with no light. This buoy marks 'The Faggot', a breaking rock, and 'The Barnyard' a shallow rocky patch. GPS said I was heading for it, and as I've become reasonably experienced with it I tend to believe it. Then at 1.25M I eyeballed it, noting that the visibility was good and the sea all but smooth. In poor conditions without GPS it would surely be a worry until the buoy was located.

On to Seahouses Harbour, where boating activity was well under way. It's a busy harbour with dive boats, sport fishing, crab boats and tripper boats to the Farne Islands. The town is brassy but fun, quite out of character for Northumberland.

I took the inshore passage between Bamburgh and Inner Farne island. The tidal stream had turned against me, so for the final 5M I would sail close to the beach and dunes. From Budle Bay north to beyond Holy Island is Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve. It might be expected that strict rules and regulations would apply to the openboater but on the contrary, it is most relaxed. The Warden asks that we do not cause disturbance to the ground nesting terns and that's it. Even better, jetskiers are chased away even before launching!

After skirting seaward to round the rocky shallows of Parton Steel I entered the harbour and made fast to the pier. With no dinghy I had to scrounge a lift back from the mooring. The Warden said I should use his if I could scull. Ahem, not too efficiently, as I discovered. I gleaned a useful piece of information: the person who'd obtained a licence to gather mussels had not gone ahead with the project. Good for me! I can now continue to gorge myself on fresh free food this season.

Note: In fact, if conditions are good, Amble (R.Cocquet) makes a possible launch point for the Holy Island Rally (23M). Experienced visiting skippers should not miss the chance of a trip on this beautiful heritage coastline. Once at Holy Island someone can drive the skippers back to collect the cars and trailers.